Prusa Mini+ Timelapse/Custom Gcode Issues
I've been recently experimenting with "Layerlapse",
A lot of people use octoprint plugin "octolapse", but I do not own a raspberry pi and the method of using a sort of remote trigger to activate a camera every layer seemed like the better option. I already have all that part figured out. I use a micro switch attached to the end of the x axis. the micro switch is connected to my phone via a 3.5mm audio jack, to emulate a press of a volume button on headphones, which can be used with android phones to trigger a camera.
I am using custom gcode in PrusaSlicer in the "After Layer Change" section to move away the printhead and the bed to the desired location and press the trigger, and that part works perfectly fine. Note: I am using a 1 second timer in the camera app on my phone, as I didn't want to deal with perfecting the timings in the gcode too much
The problem is the print quality. when using this method as opposed to normal printing I have encountered terrible oozing on the print which makes the timelapse horrible to look at. my guess is the problem is lack of retraction but I'm really not sure and even if I'm right I don't know how to implement it. I'd love some help 🙂
Or go the lazy person’s route: Get a $20 Wyze cam, print one of the adapters available on prusaprinters.org to mount it to the Mini 3030 extrusion, and you’re in business. It’s a wifi camera, you can monitor prints on the Wyze app, which not only continuously records everything but also has a very intuitive timelapse option. I actually have both Raspi and Wyze cams installed but find myself using the Wyze almost exclusively.
The only downside is that timelapse recordings need to be manually triggered and are not driven by Gcode, but if you have to add extra Gcode, it’s sort of manual either way.
While it time seem like an elegant solution, I think I'm past that point. I've already got the camera activation, the custom gcode, and turning the photos to a video all figured out. the only problem is the oozing when using this method, which it sounds like would be a problem using that method too(correct me if I'm wrong). I just want to fix that, and then I'll be good to go.
I highly appreciate the suggestion though.
It does seem as an extremely good solution for remote monitoring my printer, and maybe I'll switch to it when I'm sick of missing my phone for a few hours each timelapse.
Yeah, I could tell that you’ve went over the edge.. 😁 😁 You must be an engineer!
Would love to see a video of this contraption in action!
Hi, I'm not sure that the added code is the issue.
I'm trying to create a similar setup and the code I'm using is
Thanks for replaying.
I hadn't considered the fact that the issue could be specific to my setup. maybe I'll try printing with your code just to see if the prints still turn out poorly, and if they don't I really don't mind figuring out a way to mount the micro switch to the Y axis.
The oozing could also be caused by it taking too long to take the picture. The printer really needs to start the next layer as soon as the last layer is done so that the laid down filament is the correct temperature and also so that the filament in the hotend/nozzle isn't over heated. Too much heat will cause the filament to ooze out the nozzle and be too runny, while if the printed part has cooled to much then the new filament won't bond with it correctly.
Thanks. I was looking for an answer like this.