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Heatbreak Keeps Getting Clogged (3rd Party)  

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Chlo_Z
(@chlo_z)
Active Member
Heatbreak Keeps Getting Clogged (3rd Party)

Below are the links to the products I will be referring to:

Heatbreak: https://www.3djake.com/brozzl/prusa-mini-heatbreak-titanium-alloy?sai=10753

Nozzle: https://www.3djake.com/micro-swiss/mk8-coated-nozzle?sai=1560

I am trying to reduce my nozzle size to get higher quality prints so I bought a new heatbreak and nozzle for my printer. The issue is the filament clogs inside the heatbreak every time before the first layer calibration is complete (3 times it has happened now). Testing the new heatbreak with the stock 0.4mm nozzle (that came with my printer), no clogs occurred and fully operational on the first try. I haven't yet tried the stock heatbreak with the new 0.2mm nozzle, nor do I feel it would make a difference.

So the point of this post: What could be causing the reoccurring clog? Could I need a new heater block? Maybe upgrade my extruder? Something else I haven't thought of?

As always, I appreciate any and all help, and thank anyone who responds for their time!

Posted : 08/10/2021 5:09 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member
Heat creep

My guess is heat creep if it is the heatbreak clogging.  Are you printing PLA or PETG in a closed enclosure?

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 08/10/2021 10:03 am
Pinkie Pie
(@pinkie-pie)
Eminent Member
.

I wonder how titanium heatbreak preforms - is the one linked made by trianglelab ?

Posted : 08/10/2021 10:35 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member
RE: Titianium`

My guess is FTSETC or Trianglelabs.  It could also be POLISC or DForce.  

no matter, it is Chinese made

Posted by: @pinkie-pie

I wonder how titanium heatbreak preforms - is the one linked made by trianglelab ?

 

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 08/10/2021 11:59 am
Chlo_Z
(@chlo_z)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:

I am printing with Hatchbox PLA in a temperature controlled room (near 21°C).

Posted : 08/10/2021 3:00 pm
Chlo_Z
(@chlo_z)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Heat creep

 

Posted by: @cwbullet

My guess is heat creep if it is the heatbreak clogging.  Are you printing PLA or PETG in a closed enclosure?

If it is heat creep, can I have an explanation how the heat creep is only an issue when the 0.2mm nozzle is attached (if possible)? 

Posted : 08/10/2021 5:36 pm
BogdanH
(@bogdanh)
Honorable Member

 

Posted by: @cwbullet

My guess is FTSETC or Trianglelabs.  It could also be POLISC or DForce.  

no matter, it is Chinese made

Posted by: @pinkie-pie

I wonder how titanium heatbreak preforms - is the one linked made by trianglelab ?

 

If you check the link, you can see that heatbreak is made by Brozzl - an Austrian company.

[Mini+] [MK3S+BEAR]...
Posted : 08/10/2021 6:11 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member
Interesting

Those are interesting products.  They look a lot like Mellow nozzles.  I was not tracking this company.  I wonder if they manufacture them or if they are distributed by that company.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 08/10/2021 6:45 pm
Chlo_Z
(@chlo_z)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
Answer

After extensive tinkering, I've come to the conclusion that the BROZZL heatbreak is just low quality. Hate to turn this forum into a product review, but using the stock heatbreak fixed everything, and I even got the 0.2mm nozzle to print. 

For 3D printing amateurs such as myself, if you ever seek to upgrade, always go 1 part at a time, and always test print after each replacement. Annoying practice to adopt, I know, but it would have saved me literal days worth of frustration.  

Posted : 09/10/2021 2:25 am
BogdanH
(@bogdanh)
Honorable Member

 

Posted by: @chlo_z

After extensive tinkering, I've come to the conclusion that the BROZZL heatbreak is just low quality...

Would you care to explain why in your opinion is this heatbreak low quality? Does it have wrong dimensions, ..or poor finish? Or something else?

[Mini+] [MK3S+BEAR]...
Posted : 09/10/2021 7:01 am
Chlo_Z
(@chlo_z)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:

 

Posted by: @bogdanh

 

Posted by: @chlo_z

After extensive tinkering, I've come to the conclusion that the BROZZL heatbreak is just low quality...

Would you care to explain why in your opinion is this heatbreak low quality? Does it have wrong dimensions, ..or poor finish? Or something else?

Yea, that's a good idea.

I believe the heatbreak was poor quality because oozing and clogging were both constants in all the part swapping and (repeated) testing. I would assume oozing is a result of a poor fit (ie the thread was too small in diameter even if by less than 0.1mm), and clogging was a result of that poor fit; possibly heat creep too though I am not confident in that assessment.

Hypothetically let's say I got unlucky and got a mis-manufacture, and other heatbreaks of the same product work on others' Prusa Mini+ printers. Well then I'd argue there should be more quality control when hundredths of a millimeter can be detrimental to the printer's ability to operate. I am unwilling to accept user error as, again, repeated testing and hours of unscrewing and re-screwing parts yielded the same result whenever the BROZZL heatbreak was involved, and the stock heatbreak worked the first time with both nozzles. 

Posted : 09/10/2021 3:52 pm
BogdanH
(@bogdanh)
Honorable Member

I would assume oozing is a result of a poor fit (ie the thread was too small in diameter even if by less than 0.1mm), and clogging was a result of that poor fit...

You say you assume.. and I respect that.
Other will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think thread precision is not that important (is only there to mount the heatblock). More important is bottom surface, which needs to be perfectly flat to be flush with the nozzle -this is the only place where filament can leak if contact surface is not sealed (thread has no sealing function).
Don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing .. I'm just curious why things can go wrong with with particular heatbreak.

[Mini+] [MK3S+BEAR]...
Posted : 09/10/2021 10:16 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member
heatbreak

if the common thing with failure is the new heatbreak, I would switch back.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 09/10/2021 11:46 pm
Chlo_Z
(@chlo_z)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:

Yup; currently have the stock heatbreak and the new 0.2mm nozzle equipped, and a 5+ hour print just finished (just a 3D benchy; took so long because 0.2mm nozzle at 0.1mm layer height, mostly default settings in Prusa Slicer). I can safely say there was 0 oozing, and the print looks amazing.

Unfortunately with the BROZZL heatbreak, that is $20 I'll never see again.

Posted : 10/10/2021 1:32 am
kolba
(@kolba)
Active Member
i got one as well

I got that BROZZL heatbreak for quite a few months now. Got it from 3djake as well. I have to disagree on the quality part. As heathbreak its miles better than the which comes with mini by default. I've "tested" it by accidentally touching the bottom screw (one those three tiny ones) in the radiator while it was heated up to 210 or something. With default heatbreak it actually hurts. With upgraded one  i was seriously considering running in silent mode without the fan, as I can hold it in my hand while its connected to the block heated up to 210.

The only downside of the new heatbreak is the underextrusion on deretracts. This is mostly cured by reducing the retraction length. Depending on filament it now varies between 1.5 and 2.8. Prusament PETG being the nastiest. AFAIK going with bondtech heatbreak also results in extrusion headaches and tweaks and fun.

To be honest, stock is fine. Just make sure you slap some thermal paste when reinstalling, make sure the ptfe tube is not deformed and installed correctly and it will print ideally as intended.

 

Posted : 10/10/2021 11:23 pm
BogdanH
(@bogdanh)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @kolba

I got that BROZZL heatbreak for quite a few months now...

The only downside of the new heatbreak is the underextrusion on deretracts...

 

I wouldn't call that a downside. Because of it's different (better) thermal decoupling, it's normal that certain parameters need to be adjusted. As you noted, it's also heavily dependent on filament being used. In my opinion, these settings are more controllable with Bondtech (Brozzl, TriangleLab) than that's the case with stock heatbreak. Reason is simple: because filament doesn't become soft inside heatbreak (before it reaches the heaterblock). And because filament's "elastic length" is shorter, it might require shorter retraction -which is always a good thing.

Thank you for reporting your experience.

[Mini+] [MK3S+BEAR]...
Posted : 11/10/2021 8:28 am
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