Feature Requests - Support Brim, brim removal, first layer variance, and Solid infill Threshold angle
 

Feature Requests - Support Brim, brim removal, first layer variance, and Solid infill Threshold angle  

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Havocentral
(@havocentral)
New Member

1. Support Brim

Problem

I have adeshion issues with supports initial layers due to the end loops peeling up from the fast turns and this goes away when i add a brim, but i have to add a brim to the entire model.

Solution

Add an option to enable brim settings for just the initial support layer.

2. Brim Removal

Problem

Brim removal doesnt always go well, often needing to be cut off.

Solution

On the second layer add a perimeter on top on the brim Xmm away from the model, where X is a setting to account for printers and such, and a perimeter on the outside of the brim, then fill the brim with traditional solid layer. Repeat on layer 3 with the infill the opposite direction.

 

This way whe you remove the brim there is an obvious sheer line for it to tear at.

3. First Layer Variance

I would like options for first layer perimeter speed and perimeter count, and first layer infill speed.

This way i can set the first layer speeds differently. First perimeter 20, others 30, and first layer infill 40

 

4. Solid Infill Threshold

Problem

On certain angles, unnecessary sold infill is made internally where that infill isnt needed externally. Leading to increased print time, filament waste, and shaking of the printer.

EXAMPLE: Add a cube to the slicer and rotate it 45°, then cut off the bottom few millimeters. Slice the cube and you will see a small zig zag of purple solid infill along the entire internal angled surface.

I have tried multiple settings to remove this. Unchecking ensure vertical shell thickness offers some results but not perfect.

Solution

A solid infill angle threshold so printers can be tuned to an internal angle where solid infill isnt needed to build the next layer in that area.

Posted : 10/06/2021 2:13 pm
Neophyl
(@neophyl)
Famed Member

Unfortunately this is mainly a user to user forum and while the devs do pop in occasionally, its not often.  All feature requests and actual bug reports need to be made at the Prusa Slicer github repository located here  https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/issues

When opened there the issue is given a number and will be tracked.

Given that there are nearly 1700 open issues it may be that your request(s) have already been made so please do a search to see if a similar one already exists before opening a new issue.  If one does then you can add your support to it.  Also please make sure that if an existing issue isn't there then each request needs its own issue raising.  They shouldn't be grouped into one request like you have here.  

I can tell you now that most if not all have already been made though. 

The zigzag solid infill on sloping walls - known issue and there are threads there with some potential work arounds that sometimes work.  Also there are threads on the forum here about it if you would care to search and read.  They usually involve adding more perimeters or using a lower layer height so the ratio of supported perimeter on the one below is increased.  Again please read the available posts and information that exist if you want to learn more.

Same with brims, many issue already.  If a brim is difficult to remove it is usually down to the first layer elephants foot squish contacting the brim too well.  Prusa's solution is to increase the Elephants foot compensation.  Personally I don't like how its done which is why I often use Super Slicer which is based on PS but does many things differently and allows you to set an independent offset of the brim to the part.

The first layer PS uses below supports has also been reported/requested multiple times.  PS2.4 when it is released is targeting many support related issues including that one apparently.  However until it is release we can t be certain what will and wont be included or how well the changes actually work.

Posted : 10/06/2021 3:59 pm
Swiss_Cheese
(@swiss_cheese)
Prominent Member

@havocentral

 

 

1. Support Brim

Problem

 

I have adhesion issues with supports initial layers due to the end loops peeling up from the fast turns and this goes away when i add a brim, but I have to add a brim to the entire model.

 

Solution

 

Adjust your Z height for your first layer properly and make sure your bed is cleaned thoroughly, If those things are done properly you will most likely not have an issue with your supports curling up, but rather getting them off the plate when the print is done. If speed is the problem then turn the speed down, slicer gives you control over the speed of the supports material interface and the support material itself, as well as the extrusion width of the support material. if your not able to get the speed you want for the support on the first layer it's because your asking slicer to print it slower then the first layer print speed is set to, and you may need to adjust that to get the result you want.

 

2. Brim Removal

 

Problem

 

Brim removal doesn't always go well, often needing to be cut off.

 

Solution

 

when printing with a brim in slicer in its current configuration 2.3.0 & 2.3.1 if you turn on "elephants foot compensation" (Slicer has this on by default 0.2) you will weaken the connection of the brim such that it's all but worthless to have the brim, however, it is possible to use this behavior to adjust the connection of the brim to the model if you find it to strong. to do this you simply adjust the "elephants foot compensation" to something like 0.02 - 0.05 depending on layer height. once more it is possible to use the skirt feature (normally turned off when using a brim) to gain added purchase for brim removal and you can make it as many layers and as many loops as you wish. to do exactly what your describing.

 

3. First Layer Variance

 

I would like options for first layer perimeter speed and perimeter count, and first layer infill speed.
This way i can set the first layer speeds differently. First perimeter 20, others 30, and first layer infill 40

 

Solution

 

You can already do this, you just have not learned how yet.

 

4. Solid Infill Threshold

 

Problem

 

On certain angles, unnecessary sold infill is made internally where that infill isnt needed externally. Leading to increased print time, filament waste, and shaking of the printer.

 

EXAMPLE: Add a cube to the slicer and rotate it 45°, then cut off the bottom few millimeters. Slice the cube and you will see a small zig zag of purple solid infill along the entire internal angled surface.

I have tried multiple settings to remove this. Unchecking ensure vertical shell thickness offers some results but not perfect.

 

Solution

 

I prepared an examples for you in this file A_Gift_Swiss.3mf so that you might learn more about Slicer. (this is not for printing ! its for you to look around in to see how things are done and what can be done it's for education)

Some of the examples I exaggerated, e.g. the first layer variable speeds for the different features like perimeters, external perimeters & solid infill they are set to speeds that should not be used so as to change the color they are when you view them with the speed feature.

 

In this I also show you how to get rid of those "zig zags of purple solid infill along the entire internal angled surface" and how to build the kind of brim you wanted.

 

While it's true, you should not have posted your feature request here, you also shouldn't have been sent to get hub to make one, you should have been explained to that all these things are possible and sent to the "how do I print this" section so that others could assist you.

unfortunately we see all to often that folks that don't have a good grasp of the software "yet" want to make requests for things that are already possible, just not in the way they thought it should be so they missed it. there are definitely improvements needed in slicer but it's important to have a good understanding of the software before requesting them so that our voices might be more relevant on git hub.

 

Anyway I hope this helps you, if you don't understand something just ask.

 

Good Luck

 

Swiss_Cheese

This post was modified 5 days ago 2 times by Swiss_Cheese
The Filament Whisperer...
Posted : 11/06/2021 6:42 am
Swiss_Cheese
(@swiss_cheese)
Prominent Member

Just a quick note It was not my intention to diminish neophyl's response to this post it was reasonable and well thought.

Apologies if it came across as anything other,

 

Swiss_Cheese

The Filament Whisperer...
Posted : 12/06/2021 1:11 am
Havocentral
(@havocentral)
New Member

@swiss_cheese

I have done the nylock mod to a variance of .02 and spent an hour getting the z height right, so i dont think that is it. Still possible, The issue is only with this particular filament, solutech. 

I can slow down the first layer, sure. But that means multi hour first layers for some, since i already use 20 when i have the issue. Same with the support material/interface spees, if i lower those it applies to the whole print.

I am aware of adjustable height modifiers, but those should be for specific use, and not every single print.

 

I have tried the skirt trick before, and couldnt get the skirt to print .01 from the model, it would only print inline with the brim, leaving a small thread on the outside that i have to shave off. It is what i do currently. Once again, just a workaround.

 

As fir the first player speed, i am unaware of any settings except maybe height range modifiers which i cant apply to a profile.

 

Looking at the file, i see that the HRM was the used method, but im hoping for eventual profile implemtation so that i do not have to do that for every single thing i print.

and i noticed that to get rid of the zig zags you set top and bottom layers to 0. I have used this before, but then there are 0 top layers when top layers are actually needed. It was a large print of a brick wall and the entire inside was littered with purple zig zags for no reason. so i had to use HRM to add top layers to the top, but it took forever because there were over 50 pieces to the wall at various heights. Without the purple almost a whole day was saved off the total print time across 10 prints and almost half a roll of filament.

This post was modified 4 days ago by Havocentral
Posted : 12/06/2021 8:04 am
Swiss_Cheese
(@swiss_cheese)
Prominent Member

@havocentral

 

In the example I used the HRM to add the bottom layers to the model. I set top & bottom layers to zero because it was top and bottom layers you were perceiving as the zig-zaggy lines that's why turning on ensure vertical shell thickness only cleaned up some of them, so for this model we had to use the modifier to add the bottom layer back.

 

Since I already had the HRM in place for the same layer I wanted to demonstrate changing the feature speeds on, I used it instead of changing them in the "Speeds for print moves" and you can change it there and save it as a profile. you can change the speed of every feature on the first layer there. you may notice that the 20mm/s that is set as the first layer speed is in it's very own pane called "Modifiers" and if you were to hover your mouse over that 20mm/s you may notice that you have the option to change that to a (%) and if you read what it says:

 

"If expressed as an absolute value in mm/s, this speed will be applied to all the print moves of the first layer, regardless of their type.

If expressed as a percentage (for example 40%) it will scale the default speeds."

 

you may notice that you have a way to separately control every speed for every form of print move on the first layer as you requested and as I demonstrated in the example I provided for you. I simply used the HRM I already had applied to draw attention to this for you ( apparently it didn't work) so I'm pointing it out to you now. In my example I set it to 50%

 

These are not work arounds, every single model needs to be tuned, there is not one profile or button that will make all your models print how you want them, the options you need to make your prints what you want them to be exist now in slicer, you have to take the time to understand and learn how to use them. This also means taking the time to tune the model, I think it's worth it to do for one model, if your going to print several of the same thing it's defiantly worth it.

 

well I hope at least I was able to give you a better explanation of the control you have over your first layer speeds.

 

 

Good Luck

 

Swiss_Cheese

 

 

 

 

 

 

This post was modified 4 days ago 2 times by Swiss_Cheese
The Filament Whisperer...
Posted : 12/06/2021 8:21 pm
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