Painting with 3D resin on resin print?  

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Wilko
(@wilko)
Eminent Member

@gnat

 

There is purplish blue light shining through the cracks and the CW1 worked well for my other prints so far.

I was thinking that it might be too low ambient temperature, which played a role with some of my first resin prints, but the curing station was indicating over 30C near the end.

This post was modified 4 months ago by Wilko
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Posted : 04/02/2021 5:40 pm
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Noble Member
Posted by: @wilko

@gnat

 

There is purplish blue light shining through the cracks and the CW1 worked well for my other prints so far.

I was thinking that it might be too low ambient temperature, which played a role with some of my first resin prints, but the curing station was indicating over 30C near the end.

Yeah you'd either need to stick a camera in there and turn it on or put on a proper set of UV goggles and then trip the lid switch so it will run with the cover up (NEVER look at the LEDs without proper eye protection).

If parts are otherwise curing fine, however, I would expect that the LEDs are functioning well enough.

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Posted : 04/02/2021 5:47 pm
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Noble Member

@wilko

Tried the enamel approach on a scrap prat I had laying around. I used the Prusa orange that came with the printer and after a 10 minute cure it was still tacky. I've had similar issues with eSun eFlex even after an hour of curing, but then the tackiness goes away after a few hours. So I'll see what it's like in the morning.

As far as the effect, however, that was disappointing and no amount of curing or "airing" is going to fix that. Even though the area I filled was probably 1mm deep, it still has a very washed out look. Definitely doesn't create a popping look as I envisioned.

MMU tips and troubleshooting
Stop SL1 tank leaks with a simple o-ring...
Posted : 05/02/2021 6:03 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

I paint with spray type paint all the time.  I have found the only way for it to dry is not to touch it for 24 hours.

--------------------
Chuck H
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Posted : 05/02/2021 10:56 am
Wilko
(@wilko)
Eminent Member

@gnat

Hey, at least we tried it out!
I'm still surprised at how much UV light it seems to take to harden liquid resin, though.
I guess a stronger UV source is needed to achieve the hardening effect we had hoped for.

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Posted : 05/02/2021 11:18 am
Wilko
(@wilko)
Eminent Member

I just checked the test objects that I had painted, and much to my surprise, all but one of the layers of painted on resin are dry *and* hard. That last one is the last object I painted and it didn't get as much curing time as the others.

I guess that I should have checked yesterday if the shiny appearance was still liquid. I simply assumed that it would become a matt finish, but it stayed shiny after hardening!

Looks like this is actually a nice way to get shiny top layers! 🙂

Also, the thicker parts of the resin, where it drooped down into crevices and such did harden and did show the colour of the painted on resin.

I guess that I'll have to experiment a bit more after all, to see what is possible with painted on resin! 🙂

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Posted : 05/02/2021 1:18 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@wilko

Good stuff.  Thanks for sharing your experiment.  

--------------------
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3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 05/02/2021 1:26 pm
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Noble Member
Posted by: @wilko

I guess that I should have checked yesterday if the shiny appearance was still liquid. I simply assumed that it would become a matt finish, but it stayed shiny after hardening!

Finally checked mine and as I expected it had lost it's tackiness over night. It did not come out as bright as I hoped.

I suspect there is something we aren't accounting for in the curing process. Mine too came out shiny rather than matte and what it reminds me of is when you cure a part that didn't get cleaned properly and still has some liquid resin left on it.

MMU tips and troubleshooting
Stop SL1 tank leaks with a simple o-ring...
Posted : 05/02/2021 6:23 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@gnat

Was it supposed to be Matte?  Does it appear matte on other surfaces.  

--------------------
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3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 05/02/2021 6:50 pm
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Noble Member
Posted by: @cwbullet

@gnat

Was it supposed to be Matte?  Does it appear matte on other surfaces.  

Yes properly printed objects will have a matte finish once properly cured. If you see shiny areas on your print it is an indication that you did not get it properly clean prior to doing the final cure. Translucent/clear resins can be polished to be clear, but when they come out of curing they will have a cloudy/matte look.

So my assumption here is that there is something about the light from the SL1 and CW1 or about the process (reacting with the larger mass of resin in the tank? something to do with curing very thin layers at a time?) that is not accounted for in this "painting" and curing process.

MMU tips and troubleshooting
Stop SL1 tank leaks with a simple o-ring...
Posted : 05/02/2021 7:14 pm
Wilko
(@wilko)
Eminent Member

@gnat

I also think that there is something we miss.
I didn't wash the painted parts (of course not) which might explain the surface shine.
I assume that the washing with ethanol normally washes away all the little bits or resin that weren't cured, whereas now they stay on the surface and get cured in one smooth sheet.

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Posted : 05/02/2021 7:21 pm
cheeseman
(@cheeseman)
New Member
Posted by: @wilko

@gnat

I also think that there is something we miss.
I didn't wash the painted parts (of course not) which might explain the surface shine.
I assume that the washing with ethanol normally washes away all the little bits or resin that weren't cured, whereas now they stay on the surface and get cured in one smooth sheet.

Not 100% sure I understand what the problem is here but it is known that oxygen in the air suppresses UV curing adhesives and may be having an effect here.  See here: https://www.instructables.com/community/Tips-and-tricks-for-UV-curing-blue-resin-and-coati/  

 

Posted : 13/02/2021 6:07 pm
sarajennifer
(@sarajennifer)
New Member

I am looking for a gift for a very active 3D printing friend. He works hard to use the three printers he has for good, and always makes helpful things for people. He's sent hundreds of parts for face shields to our local medical centers back when PPE was incredibly difficult to come by, and I thought that was pretty awesome.

Posted : 11/03/2021 7:47 am
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Moderator

@sarajennifer

Makers are incredibly difficult to buy gifts for, especially if you don't know them well... 

this post is in the 'MSLA' section of the forum, whilst Most PPE makers probably would have used 'FDM'  Printers... 

probably the safest item to buy that is 3D print related, is some material of the type the person uses

For MSLA printing you might consider (resin Printing)

https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/47-resin

For FDM printing  (Fused filament printing) you may consider
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/16-filament

but it's probably best to ask the person concerned... 

and resin / filament are probably more locally available. 

regards Joan

 

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK...
Posted : 16/03/2021 12:38 pm
sarajennifer
(@sarajennifer)
New Member
Posted by: @sarajennifer

I am looking for a gift for a very active 3D skeletal printing friend. He works hard to use the three printers he has for good, and always makes helpful things for people. He's sent hundreds of parts for face shields to our local medical centers back when PPE was incredibly difficult to come by, and I thought that was pretty awesome.

 

Posted : 26/05/2021 1:30 pm
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