Ordered the SL1 and CW1: what else would make sense to order?
I have ordered the Black Friday SL1-CW1 package (which comes with two litres of blue resin), plus ordered extra bottle of black resin, extra build plate (so I can start to print something else while dealing with a finished SL1 print that requires washing, curing and so on) and a set of 3 films.
What else in related Prusa hardware is smart to order as well (I want to keep shipping cost low by ordering what I think will I need for the foreseeable future all at once now)?
I was thinking about ordering another resin tank, another set of 3 films plus a print display assembly.
(I already own a Mk3S and MMU2S)
Prusa MK3S
Prusa SL1
Prusa CW1
Anet ET5 pro
Anycubic Mono X
RE: Ordered the SL1 and CW1: what else would make sense to order?
I would go ahead and order a replacement LCD to have on hand. Since I started looking at the SL1 in the early summer the replacement LCDs have either been back ordered or been out of stock entirely. Rather than potentially waiting a month or more for a new LCD when you can't print any more, I think it makes sense to have it on hand and then order the next when you swap the backup in.
With my SL1 I also ordered an extra platform and extra tank. Things have conspired to prevent me from getting any advantage from them (e.g. the printer hasn't worked consistently enough for me to bother with starting the next print before parts are off the platform).
Extra FEPs are good (it does come with some and I ordered an extra pack), but I've switched to some cheap (8 for $20) FEPs off Amazon. They aren't pre-cut, but if you watch FEP install videos (skip the "bottle cap" trick) you'll see how to install them and it is easy. The biggest benefit to the non-precut FEPs, in my opinion, is the lack of statically charged FEP dots that end up all over the place stuck to things.
Get yourself a pack of o-rings (like these https://www.mcmaster.com/1302N101/) to help seal the tank and keep it from leaking. See https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-sl1-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/resin-leaks-between-tank-and-frame/ for discussion and details.
RE: Ordered the SL1 and CW1: what else would make sense to order?
@gnat
Thank you for your tips! I didn't know about that o-ring tip yet! That really helps!
I already have an extra LCD screen on its way, as well as two extra sets of FEP film (and the extra tank and extra build plate already mentioned).
Prusa MK3S
Prusa SL1
Prusa CW1
Anet ET5 pro
Anycubic Mono X
RE: Ordered the SL1 and CW1: what else would make sense to order?
Extra FEPs are good (it does come with some and I ordered an extra pack), but I've switched to some cheap (8 for $20) FEPs off Amazon. They aren't pre-cut, but if you watch FEP install videos (skip the "bottle cap" trick) you'll see how to install them and it is easy. The biggest benefit to the non-precut FEPs, in my opinion, is the lack of statically charged FEP dots that end up all over the place stuck to things.
I wonder if the screw holes for generic FEP sheets could be laser cut? I'm guessing the FEP is some sort of fluorinated compound and that may not be a good thing to cut with a laser.
RE: Ordered the SL1 and CW1: what else would make sense to order?
@mikeh-3
I'm sure they could be, but you don't need to. You just lay the FEP across the bottom of the tank and put the retaining plate on top of the FEP and move it into place. Then poke a hole in the FEP in the center of one of the corner screw holes (I just use a modelling pick) and insert the screw. It will push through the FEP and you tighten it just enough to grab the tank. Then repeat that for each corner while keeping the FEP smooth. After the last corner you can poke holes for the other 18 screws and insert them in the same manner. Then start the crisscross tension pattern. Finally once it's all tightened down, run a razor blade along the inside of the outer lip right up against the retaining plate to trim off the excess.
It actually takes me less time and is less aggravating than dealing with those 22 FEP dots...