So my MMU 2.0s works ok but not great. Been looking at the MODs. Anyone have a definitive list of MK3S/MMu 2.0S mods?
 

So my MMU 2.0s works ok but not great. Been looking at the MODs. Anyone have a definitive list of MK3S/MMu 2.0S mods?  

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MikiCab
(@mikicab)
Estimable Member

Like a lot of people I have been running hot and cold on the MMU 2.0S.  It works sometimes but usually takes some baby sitting to get it to work well.  PETG is finicky at best.  I am ready to just back into the ring and do some more modifications over the next few months.  What is the definitive list of upgrades/mods people are doing.  There are a lot out there and I am trying, like everyone one else, to narrow them down.

Thanks.

 

Posted : 10/08/2019 3:51 am
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Prominent Member

Not sure there is a "definitive" list. Most of the modding is about fixing things to make it work better for our desired setup.

The only one that I can say I think is applicable to everyone is the passthrough festo mod for the PTFEs going into the MMU as that makes it so much easier to remove and reinsert the tubes when needed for fixing a filament issue.

Otherwise, let us know what issues you want to improve and we can help narrow the list for you.

MMU tips and troubleshooting...
Posted : 10/08/2019 5:01 am
nils.t
(@nils-t)
Estimable Member

1. What gnat said: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579

2. Better selector (it already works way better than the stock solution without the magnet, but adding one removed all my selector fails for good): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3528314

3. Something to get rid of the original buffer. There are many solutions (other buffers, buffer modifications or auto-rewind spool holders). I'm very happy with this (because I have 3 spools behind and 2 below the printer and this was the most versatile holder I could find): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3691892 (takes almost a spool of filament to print 5 though)

4. reprint critical parts in better quality (R5, and if possible ABS). For me this was the idler door, extruder cover & extruder body. The extruder parts started to sag after a few weeks, original idler door was twisted and fake-triggered the sensor.

5. replace long PTFE with something wider. 2mm ID worked wonders for me.

That did it for me, remaining faults so far were all from bad filament breaking in the feed. Additionally you might want to keep this around in case you need a hotend PTFE replacement: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3121653

...
Posted : 12/08/2019 9:09 am
egalanos
(@egalanos)
Active Member
Posted by: nils.t

5. replace long PTFE with something wider. 2mm ID worked wonders for me.

I'm confused about what size PTFE tubing you used as the ones included are labelled 4x2x$LENGTH which I'm assuming means 4mm OD, 2mm ID. Or did you have an older version of the upgrade kit with different size tubes?

Posted : 12/08/2019 12:58 pm
nils.t
(@nils-t)
Estimable Member

Well I don't really know the exact ID of the Prusa-supplied PTFE, but the friction was too high for all my filaments (e.g. Fillamentum, which has very consistent diameters). It cannot be 2mm, or at least I couldn't insert a 2mm pin. It is the white/semi-transparent tubing (from MMU1->MMU2 upgrade kit). I'm guessing it is 1.85 or 1.9 mm ID, but cannot measure. Now using cheap stuff (4x2mm) from supplier "Kingroon".

In my case something was off with the short PTFE in the hotend as well, don't know if it was too narrow or too wide. This led to load errors after about 5-6 filament changes per filament. I'm using 1.9mm ID Capricorn XT there now. But I don't think a lot of people have this problem, guess there was a bad batch or something.

...
Posted : 12/08/2019 3:17 pm
CybrSage liked
nikolai.r
(@nikolai-r)
Noble Member
Posted by: nils.t

4. reprint critical parts in better quality (R5, and if possible ABS). For me this was the idler door, extruder cover & extruder body. The extruder parts started to sag after a few weeks, original idler door was twisted and fake-triggered the sensor.

Careful with that. PR parts are not pretty but sturdy. Felt already in that trap where my parts were pretty but broke over time.

@mikicab: What kind of mods have you already done? What kind of issues do you have?

Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram...
Posted : 12/08/2019 5:36 pm
CybrSage
(@cybrsage)
Honorable Member

I have collected the mods I am using here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/cybrsage/collections/mmu2-mods

 

Posted : 13/08/2019 8:12 am
MikiCab
(@mikicab)
Estimable Member

I just did the flag mod for the chimney and I put Capricorn 2mmID tubing (the light blue stuff) from the buffer.  The PTFE tubing that came with the MMU has too much friction. This stuff is much slicker.  Other than that I have just been waiting for it to settle down. I figured the community would come up with something good sooner or later.

Posted : 15/08/2019 5:49 am
CybrSage
(@cybrsage)
Honorable Member
Posted by: nils.t

Well I don't really know the exact ID of the Prusa-supplied PTFE, but the friction was too high for all my filaments (e.g. Fillamentum, which has very consistent diameters). It cannot be 2mm, or at least I couldn't insert a 2mm pin. It is the white/semi-transparent tubing (from MMU1->MMU2 upgrade kit). I'm guessing it is 1.85 or 1.9 mm ID, but cannot measure. Now using cheap stuff (4x2mm) from supplier "Kingroon".

In my case something was off with the short PTFE in the hotend as well, don't know if it was too narrow or too wide. This led to load errors after about 5-6 filament changes per filament. I'm using 1.9mm ID Capricorn XT there now. But I don't think a lot of people have this problem, guess there was a bad batch or something.

I have the exact same issue right now.  I will buy the capricorn tubing and give it a whirl.

 

Posted : 17/08/2019 10:03 pm
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Prominent Member

I've been using the Capricorn XS for everything except the hotend PTFE and I've been happy. The last of my friction issues went away when I switched.

MMU tips and troubleshooting...
Posted : 17/08/2019 10:50 pm
CybrSage liked
jody.j.pescod
(@jody-j-pescod)
Eminent Member

Hey

I just got my MMU2S up and running (so to speak) but it requires some babysitting. I'm printing some spool auto-rewinders right now but looking to improve the performance. Couple of the mods look interesting and I will be back to reach out when I start the mods.

Question : If I replace the PTFE tube holder, mentioned above, I will use bigger tubes but can they also be shorter? Is the a minimum length? I ask because I am going to start building a cabinet for it but would like to make it as compact as possible.

Posted : 13/04/2020 3:07 pm
CybrSage
(@cybrsage)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @jody-j-pescod

Hey

I just got my MMU2S up and running (so to speak) but it requires some babysitting. I'm printing some spool auto-rewinders right now but looking to improve the performance. Couple of the mods look interesting and I will be back to reach out when I start the mods.

Question : If I replace the PTFE tube holder, mentioned above, I will use bigger tubes but can they also be shorter? Is the a minimum length? I ask because I am going to start building a cabinet for it but would like to make it as compact as possible.

Afaik, the MMU2 detects the tube length through the sensors when it loads.  It no longer needs to be set manually.

Posted : 13/04/2020 5:03 pm
jody.j.pescod
(@jody-j-pescod)
Eminent Member

@cybrsage

Thanks for the reply.

I re-read my post and I think there is a misunderstanding. I am referring to the PTFE tubes from the spools to the printer. I am printing the auto-rewinders and wonder if I can shorten the tubes so the rewinders are closer to my printer.

Posted : 13/04/2020 5:13 pm
CybrSage
(@cybrsage)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @jody-j-pescod

@cybrsage

Thanks for the reply.

I re-read my post and I think there is a misunderstanding. I am referring to the PTFE tubes from the spools to the printer. I am printing the auto-rewinders and wonder if I can shorten the tubes so the rewinders are closer to my printer.

You are absolutely correct, I did misunderstand. You can make those at short or as long as you desire. The printer doesn't know or care about that.

That said, you have correctly deduced that shorter is better from a friction standpoint alone.

 

This post was modified 4 months ago by CybrSage
Posted : 13/04/2020 6:07 pm
yveske
(@yveske)
Eminent Member

I've reduced the friction in the PTFE tube going to the extruder by extending the MMU holder 3cm further backwards.
https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/cant-load-filament-2/

Having problems with bed adhesion every morning......
Posted : 21/04/2020 9:10 am
CybrSage liked
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