Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes  

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@ryan-1

I had the same question, I manually removed the first colour change code from the sliced GCode. Also PrusaSlicer allows a post processing script/program to be ran and at some point I'll try write a prog which will remove the offending GCode.

BTW it makes it easier to find the first colour change if you top and tail it with ;***************************************

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Posted by: @towlerg

@ryan-1

I had the same question, I manually removed the first colour change code from the sliced GCode. Also PrusaSlicer allows a post processing script/program to be ran and at some point I'll try write a prog which will remove the offending GCode.

BTW it makes it easier to find the first colour change if you top and tail it with ;***************************************

I just use a simple text editor and search for M117 , then ';' it out and the next M600 .

Texy

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@texy. Do you use Reiner's settings, imported or did you set up you own configuration.  I can get the multiple extruders but can't get the color change to work.

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@ryan-1

I have notice that the order in witch you import the file affect the outcome of witch part is printed first.  Fist body imported is always printed first whatever extruder you select.  So I use this feature to decide if I want to have a first change or I do it myself before printing start... 

It would be nice to be able to clearly chose it, but it end up being the order that you pick the file when importing them that drive the show... 

Give it a try and let me know how it goes checking that...

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@frank-the-rock

Hi Frank, 
you can change the order in the right hand column, by grabbing the part name and dragging it up or down

in the example below, I made a case with a solid top, and a name plate, if I add the solid top first, and the other items afterwards, the box lid slices blank

If I move the Blank Lid down the List, then the other filaments slice first, and I end up with the expected result. 

this was done in Prusa Slicer '3D Editor view'
regards Joan

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Unfortunately altering the order on the right does not have the desired affect for me. 
Imagine an orange cut through the segments. You want each adjacent segment to be printed in order, but it didn’t print that way for me. 
However I haven’t tried loading each segment in the correct order yet. I must try that. 
Texy

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@rainer-s

Hi sir

Just did first multi color print thanks to you Mr Rainer

I have one favor if you will

When asked to change filament it did not say on screen what color line you screen

I added the M600 Q

Please help if you would ty

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@joantabb

I'll have a play with that. My original problem was that PrusaSlicer puts a filament change at the start of the GCode, so I was finding the if my base was Black, I'd load Black filament and run the GCode. The first thing would be a filament change from Black to Black. I found it much quicker  to edit the GCode than do a pointless filament change. BTW are you slicing multicolour up or down (ie. on the build plate). I tried up but the printer hit the existing plastic, not enough hop maybe?

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Posted by: @recovery

@rainer-s

Hi sir

Just did first multi color print thanks to you Mr Rainer

I have one favor if you will

When asked to change filament it did not say on screen what color line you screen

I added the M600 Q

Please help if you would ty

 

That is a firmware issue/feature that prusa would need to support. I believe that Rainer did highlight this via GitHub, but prusa has not taken this onboard. 
Texy

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

This is my first try of your idea. Complete set slicer my own, and I have mesh up something because i have every color change to do it twice.

Then I decided to import your DEV version, and the postprocessing works and generates the txt file, and it tells me with extruder will be next, but the "color text" is allways the "color text" of the first extruder (in my case white). What could it be?

Post processing output:
The following are the colors used in your print.
This list includes the filament that needs to be loaded when starting the print.

---------- D:\USERS\ELITEDESK800\DESKTOP\MK3S - COLOR_0.15MM_PLA_MK3S_25M.GCODE
;Filament Color:: 0 white
;Filament Color:: 2 white
;Filament Color:: 3 white
;Filament Color:: 0 white
;Filament Color:: 2 white

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@kapa

The filaments you are assigning to the extruders need to have the correct RGB Colors assigned to them.
The Tool Change Gcode will eveluate those values agains some constants to choose a color text string for the message

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@joantabb

Hi Joan,  Sorry Miss your post earlier.  That's great thing to know!  I never tried to move slide them lol.  I knew there must be some trick but that easier then expected lol 

thanks for sharing Joan!  

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Posted by: @rainer-s

@kapa

The filaments you are assigning to the extruders need to have the correct RGB Colors assigned to them.
The Tool Change Gcode will eveluate those values agains some constants to choose a color text string for the message

Using this method I want to use 3 different filament manufactures which have different temperature and Retraction settings. On filament change the temperature stays as whatever extruder 1 is. Is it possible to carry over settings ? Maybe  I’m doing something wrong. 

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

First off, let me say a big thank you to Rainer for providing this, I use it all the time, and had some questions... I don't know why I never came back and checked the thread here, but very happy to see others using it, and Rainer commenting as well still.

Onto my issue...

When it executes a color change, the print head returns to the previous color position, and sometimes (a lot of the time) deposits a small dab of the new color extruding from the print head. Obviously depending on the color, this is not desired.

Is there a way that people are using to overcome this extra color dab? maybe it is just my settings that need some adjusting... 

I tried turning on the wipe tower, but I always get an error about the tool change code. I would think having it print a bit to the tower, then moving to the new location would be the best solution, but I am unsure of this.

Here is the error code:

G-code export to C:\Users\nomad\AppData\Local\Temp\.2060.gcode failed due to invalid custom G-code sections:
toolchange_gcode
Please inspect the file C:\Users\nomad\AppData\Local\Temp\.2060.gcode.tmp for error messages enclosed between
!!!!! Failed to process the custom G-code template ...
and
!!!!! End of an error report for the custom G-code template ...

*

I got to this file, and there is nothing that shows any of the phrases or error report in that file at all.

I am just using the Rainer updated version, turn on wipe tower, and try and slice it.

The wipe tower is rendered on the build plate, but I am not sure if it will work.

Has anyone tried a wipe tower? or have any other ideas on fixing it?

Thanks in advance.

.2060.gcode

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

I guess You need to use the filament override settings for each filament and add a M109 at end of the filament change script?

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

when you  change the filament the printer clears the nozzle and asks if the colour is clear. at this instant there is a temptation to remove the waste material...    DON'T DO IT! 
grab the waste with pliers 
press the button  and the printer will squirt a little more filament out, then go back to the print. as it moves away from your pliers the waste will all come off in one piece...  

where as if you take the bulk of the waste off when it asks if the colour is clear, the extra squirt stays on the nozzle and you have to try and catch it as the nozzle goes back to the print

regards Joan

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Posted by: @nomad1109

First off, let me say a big thank you to Rainer for providing this, I use it all the time, and had some questions... I don't know why I never came back and checked the thread here, but very happy to see others using it, and Rainer commenting as well still.

Onto my issue...

When it executes a color change, the print head returns to the previous color position, and sometimes (a lot of the time) deposits a small dab of the new color extruding from the print head. Obviously depending on the color, this is not desired.

Is there a way that people are using to overcome this extra color dab? maybe it is just my settings that need some adjusting... 

I tried turning on the wipe tower, but I always get an error about the tool change code. I would think having it print a bit to the tower, then moving to the new location would be the best solution, but I am unsure of this.

Here is the error code:

G-code export to C:\Users\nomad\AppData\Local\Temp\.2060.gcode failed due to invalid custom G-code sections:
toolchange_gcode
Please inspect the file C:\Users\nomad\AppData\Local\Temp\.2060.gcode.tmp for error messages enclosed between
!!!!! Failed to process the custom G-code template ...
and
!!!!! End of an error report for the custom G-code template ...

*

I got to this file, and there is nothing that shows any of the phrases or error report in that file at all.

I am just using the Rainer updated version, turn on wipe tower, and try and slice it.

The wipe tower is rendered on the build plate, but I am not sure if it will work.

Has anyone tried a wipe tower? or have any other ideas on fixing it?

Thanks in advance.

.2060.gcode

Turning on the purge tower stopped the blob thing for me, not sure why you’re getting errors though ? I don’t use @rainer added gcode for colour so that maybe why I don’t get error. As  you see from what I’ve been printing it’s quite important I don’t get the blob.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/z3uVSAS4iqMLp5yq7

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@nickrno77

regarding the extra bit of filament being extruded..
i remember quite some time ago that prusa mentioned this was done intentionally to build up the correct pressure in the hotend again.
Imagine if the printhead sits there for a while and filament oozes out of it... the extra extrude is being done in order to compensate for that.
I never liked it and usually just use my fingers or some tool to catch the end of the extruded filament when the printhead starts moving, and pull it in the last moment before the print restarts.
i try to avoid wipe towers as well, ad this method without wipe tower saves a huge amount of filament...

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Posted by: @rainer-s

@nickrno77

regarding the extra bit of filament being extruded..
i remember quite some time ago that prusa mentioned this was done intentionally to build up the correct pressure in the hotend again.
Imagine if the printhead sits there for a while and filament oozes out of it... the extra extrude is being done in order to compensate for that.
I never liked it and usually just use my fingers or some tool to catch the end of the extruded filament when the printhead starts moving, and pull it in the last moment before the print restarts.
i try to avoid wipe towers as well, ad this method without wipe tower saves a huge amount of filament...

 

@rainer-s

1/ blob:-, I think you're thinking of something else, what used to happen before I used your method, after the load of filament the extruder would move over the previous color on the same layer then quickly drop a tiny spot onto the print. If it was white the new colour would show through.

2/ Wipe Tower:- for me I only do multi colour printing for text so I would only print 2 or 3 muti colour layers. Previous to your method I used 3 loops for 3 colours which primed the extruder enough but I got the dreaded blob. I think using your settings for the "single extruder MM setup" has eliminated the blob or using the "wipe tower". Yes on the colour change extra filament is oozed after the intial load which I hang onto till it gets near the print, then I whip it off.

3/ Different filament Filament brands settings:- this was one of my main problems because I was using Fillamentum CPE PETG to 265c and Fiberology PETG 230C, when using my old method those settings weren't passed over to the print, I think setting "single extruder MM setup" triggered the different filament parameters to be passed over to the printer ?????

Anyway thanks for your great guide which solved my problem. I actually don't use your tool change gcode, for me its more simple to write down the tool changes on a bit of paper :)... I presume the developers of Prusaslice didn't implement the changes you asked for ? 

https://schlosshan.eu/blog/2019/03/02/prusa-i3-mk3-real-multicolour-prints-without-mmu/

RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Hi @rainer

Just wondering if you have an updated profile for the new v2.3.0 of PrusaSlicer that has settings such as the Octoprint details in the printer's config rather than the INI file?

Thanks in advance...

Ben.