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Phenolic Heat Bed Surface DIY for Polycarbonate  

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Bunny Science
(@bunny-science)
Noble Member
Phenolic Heat Bed Surface DIY for Polycarbonate

Made myself a phenolic flex print bed that I'm using exclusively for polycarbonate prints. It works without application of glue stick or any other additives. However, the brand of polycarbonate completely determines whether the filament will stick. Thus far PC-Max and Priline polycarbonates (plain and carbon fiber) stick well during printing. Upon cooling, the material comes off easily.

Gizmo Dorks simply doesn't stick to any surface I own and has achieved its place in my trash bin.

What I used...

Phenolic XX Paper Grade Sheet, Natural, 0.031" Thick, 12" Width x 24" Length

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OYKVCQ

 

Adhesive Transfer Tape, Double Sided Transfer Sheet, 12" x 12" 3M 468MP

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BK8PHZK

 

FYSETC 3D Printer MK3 Spring Steel Sheet Heat Bed Platform

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQ57WV

 

Phenolic panel is most cleanly cut by scoring both sides with a hobby knife and snapping along score line.

Abrade phenolic initially with 600 grit wet or dry paper. That gives it the right amount of stickiness for the filament.

Wash with Dawn for initial clean. IPA wipe every few prints.

Remove prints without touch the surface. I just tap the edgs with with a chef's knife to remove the prints.

Posted : 01/08/2019 5:55 pm
Flaviu liked
Bunny Science
(@bunny-science)
Noble Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Phenolic Heat Bed Surface DIY for Polycarbonate

Other things of note:

Priline polycarbonates (black and carbon fiber) print fairly cold (1st/thereafter, nozzle 260/265C, bed 100/110). They are both "runny" and  require more retraction than most of my other filaments 3.5 mm on Mosquito Magnum.

Polymaker PC-Max works great a bit hotter (nozzle 285/290, bed 100/110). It needs less retraction 1.2 mm

Of the three, PC-Max is more resistant to heat and is most suitable for hot fins and fan shrouds

 

The BNBSX you see in video has current features

anti-flex motor plate

wider clearance mosquito hot fins

locking screw and square m3 nut for fan shroud screw

Also...

DIY silicone sock, Spool3D tungsten CARBIDE 0.4 nozzle.

That is a Midas VA LCD screen for the control panel. No pale blue, low contrast screens here.

This post was modified 2 years ago 2 times by Bunny Science
Posted : 01/08/2019 6:09 pm
Bunny Science
(@bunny-science)
Noble Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Phenolic Heat Bed Surface DIY for Polycarbonate

Phenolic sheet is thicker than Prusa PEI. Live Z is at -0.500 to use the phenolic as opposed to my usual -1.050 mm. Your actual values may differ, but the point is Live-Z must be adjusted to make up for the thickness difference.

Posted : 01/08/2019 6:15 pm
Bunny Science
(@bunny-science)
Noble Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Phenolic Heat Bed Surface DIY for Polycarbonate

A bit further along. Priline carbon fiber polycarbonate makes pretty and strong prints.

Posted : 01/08/2019 10:46 pm
evan38109
(@evan38109)
Eminent Member
RE: Phenolic Heat Bed Surface DIY for Polycarbonate

This is really cool, and definitely something I want to try. I've been printing PC on the stock PEI sheet so far, and while it works, I have managed to wind up with a one plate that look worse for wear.

It's also cool to see your comparison between the PC-Max and Priline polycarbonates. It's good to know that I'm not doing something crazy when I set my retraction so high. I've also experimented attacking that runny-ness by tweaking (or abusing) linear advance. What K-values do you like to use for those filaments?

Posted : 02/08/2019 11:58 pm
Bunny Science
(@bunny-science)
Noble Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Phenolic Heat Bed Surface DIY for Polycarbonate

K is 0.10 to 0.15 with PC on my firmware branch with LA15. LA 15 is actually also in my main 0.9 branch now. Both branches are identical at this time.

I'm very happy with how the phenolic bed is working. It's really nice not needing to apply glue between every dang print job. Also, I am finding I can print PC without a brim and not have everything warp off the plate. 

BTW, nothing would stick until after abrading with 600 silicon carbide paper. Might have been just left over factor release compound. I didn't try simply washing the phenolic. I have another blank plate coming to make a second phenolic print bed. I'll see if just a wash works before abrading the next one.

Bed temp 120C seems to be the sweet spot for PC to stick to the phenolic surface. 

PC-Max is more and more impressive every time I compare it against the plain and carbon fiber Priline PC's. PC-Max prints out stiffer and stronger than either of those other two. It's also less stringy. 

BTW those ugly scratches on the left side of my phenolic are because of a nasty, Chinese liberation army roll of polycarb. It fractionated and badly stuck to the phenolic. Not going that cheap again! Don't even try this generic PC roll  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SXS6NP

 

This post was modified 2 years ago 2 times by Bunny Science
Posted : 03/08/2019 12:09 am
Bunny Science
(@bunny-science)
Noble Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Phenolic Heat Bed Surface DIY for Polycarbonate

Update: After more experience, I routinely coat the phenolic with glue stick. Makes for more reliable adhesion. Coat the plate with Elmer's ultra, wet with a water and spread with cotton ball to create a smooth glue solution. Let bed heat at 85C for a few minutes to dry before starting print. Works well.

 

Posted : 21/04/2020 8:41 pm
semaj4712
(@semaj4712)
New Member
slicr settings

Any chance you could share your slicr settings for the priline carbonfiber, I just finish your BNBSX Short ears build and I am doing some PC prints, specifically with the priline carbonfiber

Posted : 03/09/2021 7:08 pm
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