Upgrade the X carriage?
I’ve upgraded or modified every printer I’ve gotten so far (Prusa Mini+ & Ender 3) heavily and was curious what the census was on the MK3S+.
id be looking to use a genuine SE Mosquito with a Bondtech custom carriage for the Prusa. My goal is to convert the Prusa into a high temp printer in a pop-up enclosure from wham Bam.
I’d also be upgrading the heater cart with a 50W 24V and then a high temp thermistor rated to 450C.
Really I’m just asking if I’m asking too much of this printer and leave this one as my work horse. I do already have a Mosquito and full linear rail setup and Bondtech DDX extruder on my Ender 3.
For higher temps I think most folk simply change to a platinum thermal sensor with amplifier. Everything else about the hot end can work at reasonably high temps. Though, at some point the PETG of the extruder body will begin failing, as will the fan shroud: these can be especially vulnerable inside an enclosure you keep warm to reduce warpage of the higher temp plastics.
ps: and you'll need to cool the extruder motor in an enclosure.
Im thinking of a heatsink setup on the extruder. Bondtech uses SLS and has a high temp body for enclosures up to 60C. I do know about the PT100 and AMP boards but I’ve also heard people having reliability issues.
Found this online: Unfortunately, PTFE begins to breakdown at temperatures above 240°C. Get it above 250°C for too long and you'll be treated to noxious fumes and a blackened mess.
If it were me, I'd have a friend with an SLA printer make the Mk3 extruder parts in whatever resin they have, or get a print shop to do it. I hear the standard Prusa resins are good for higher temps. Not sure why Prusa isn't doing that for shrouds, perhaps cost factor vs need. Not really an insurmountable issue.
For me its about knowing the beast I am living with: changing to some other kit means learning everything from scratch.
@Justin - you'll likely want to move the electronics and power supply outside of the heated chamber if you're concerned about the longevity of the printer electronics.
@Yveske - The Mk3 uses the all-metal version of the E3D V6 hotend. As Tim notes, the PTFE tubing is only used at the top to guide the filament in but is firmly planted up in the cold end. The E3D V6 Lite is PTFE-lined down to the nozzle and is often cloned and used in low-cost printer designs since it's easier to get working with poor-fitting parts.
I know it shouldn't be a problem for the Prusa hotend, but Justin was looking to change hotends...
I’m thinking of Bondtechs kits, they use them in SLS and have a handling temperature inside the enclosure of 60c to 75c air temp. I’d say that’s pretty damn good, more than easily keeping anything all the way up to PEEK and PEAK from warping.
Oh definitely, I’ll be looking for a wiring extension kit or making my own longer wires at least for the PSU. I like the V6 for the same reason I like the Mosquito, they both use almost zero PTFE
I’d probably use some from SE, they have one of the longest I know of and they are 50W. The leads are about 2-3ft long I believe.