Sucessful Duet WiFi installation
Yeah, the SKR1.4pro with 2209s was only ~70USD and ran smoothly for sure. I would think Prusa is to upgrade the driver board soon to something like the mini has?
I haven't done much work with 32-bit boards for printers yet.
What good 32-bit alternatives (with support) are there for the i3 (Marlin FW)? I'm hoping for a speed advantage when printing circles with my 0.9 steppers and simultaneous serial logging. Does it have any advantages at all with a cartesian printer?
The price is secondary. If a 32-bit board gives better results, then I would invest time and money.
With my old Isel CNC milling machine (Nema 23 steppers) I changed from 8 to 32-bit - differences like day and night - zero lost steps and smoother running with 32 microsteps.
For further information I would be grateful 👍
Right now Bigtreetech boards are pretty famous. https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3
You can flash Marlin 2.0 on it and there is a big community around it.
The major benefit of this newer board is the available Flash space. You can implement more functions and also use more advanced computations. In regards to generic print quality I wouldn't see a big difference as of right now. I'm pretty sure if someone would show me a print with SKR and one with Ensy or one with Duet board(with same drivers/firmware), I wouldn't see any difference.
I've used one SKR1.3 board with TMC2208 to upgrade my MPSM v2. and one SKR1.4 board with TMC2209 for an i3 clone. So far no issues and they performing both well.
32-bit alternatives (with support)
@karl-herbert This is where it narrows the field for sure. My SKR14pro board runs marlin great but as far as I know and seen, you only get community support - I could be wrong, maybe I just didn't know where to access such. This is one of the reasons I went with the Duet3d board, of course there is plenty of community support but also the actual people who make, design, and write the software for it respond to you - this isn't a sale's pitch or fanboy statement, just what anyone can see if they look at the forums there.
Thanks to both for informations. I will take a closer look at the subject 👍
to me is important - community and support.
many thanks for the link and the numerous information 👍 !
Most welcome! Between the duet and the bltouch, it has made everything much easier.
Thanks for posting all this information I am about to undergo this modification with duet 2 wifi on my prusa mk3 ! My goal is to be able to use the BL touch probe I like using glass to print on and the pinda doesn’t allow me to do that
I agree, the bltouch allows for expanded build plate options, and once set no more live-z stuff when changing.
Have fun with the project, let me know how it goes.
So I have everything wired and just waiting on another fan to arrive, I am stuck at the extruder I will be using the stock prusa extruder and need to figure out the code for the stock extruder , Kolbi I think your setup was for the mosquito extruder and I am not sure how much differences it’ll be using the stock for the code.
Sorry, I just saw this.
For stock it should be:
; Motor Configuration ; !!! For stock motors, use the following as a starting point: M906 X620.00 Y620.00 Z560.00 E650.00 I10 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in percent M350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Microstepping with interpolation M350 E32 I0 ; Microstepping without interpolation M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E280.00 ; Steps per mm ; !!! Also note that you should edit the current-sense-homing.g file and increase current to 50 on X and Y, 100 on Z. ; !!! M913 X20 Y20 Z60 ---> M913 X50 Y50 Z100
Also, your z-probe offset will be slightly different. All of the "G31 P1000 X23 Y5 Z0.985" commands will be a little different for each machine/bed/nozzle setup. The X and Y in the command are the z-probe's offset from the nozzle, and the Z is the height offset. The X/Y can be copied from stock offsets in your case, Z will need to be recalculated - follow the guide at Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe.
Give a look at the config.g here:
; Z-Probe Setting for PINDA v2 ; 1 - If using PindaV2, Remove above M558 & M950 lines, replace with the following M558 & M308 line ; 2 - Uncomment one of the Z-Offsets below, follow the wiki guide steps to get the proper Z-offset for your printer ; 3 - Comment out the 2 BLTouch lines in the homez and homeall files ; ; M558 P5 C"^zprobe.in" I1 H1 F1000 T6000 A20 S0.005 ; Prusa PindaV2 ; M308 S2 P"e1_temp" A"Pinda V2" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ; Prusa PindaV2 ; ; Z-Offsets - Read here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe ; G31 P1000 X23 Y5 Z0.XXX ; PEI Sheet (Prusa) Offset Spool3D Tungsten Carbide ; G31 P1000 X23 Y5 Z0.XXX ; PEI Sheet (Prusa) Offset MICRO SWISS NOZZLE ; G31 P1000 X23 Y5 Z1.XXX ; Textured Sheet (Prusa) Offset MICRO SWISS NOZZLE ; G31 P1000 X23 Y5 Z0.XXX ; Textured Sheet (thekkiinngg) Offset MICRO SWISS NOZZLE
Thank you so much for sharing this ! It will help me out a lot !
No worries at all. Since you're using a bltouch - all you should have to do is change the first posts configs for motors and leave the pinda lines commented-out as they are.
Contact me @kolbi on https://forum.duet3d.com.
Haha, I’ll start of by saying that it is very different then marlin for sure. I do like marlin and have been using it for years, so for me it was/is a learning curve shifting to reprap but in a good way.
The biggest advantage over marlin is that you don’t need to recompile your firmware after changes. In reprap/duet the configuration files are broken down into separate files that you update on-the-fly and then just restart your printer. You can see these files in my github link under the sys folder. Additionally reprap/duet wifi has it’s own web interface that is part of the firmware itself. It is very slick, useful, and very responsive – plus you can edit the files I mentioned through the web interface, very cool.
For the EinsyRambo vs Duet Wifi; the duet gives you much more stepper power, wifi connectivity built in, and of course a much faster 32bit processor for increase kinematics headroom.
There are some cons thus far, and granted I’ve only just put this all together this past weekend, but the stepper drivers are very slightly louder than stock einsy – but I haven’t had a chance to really tune them and see what is possible. This isn’t a big deal for me really, and like I said – it’s barely noticeable difference. The other thing is you can’t use your existing fans or lcd display. I had to upgrade to 24v fans and 5in color touchscreen (no complaints 😉 )
Maybe an issue for people using MMU? I’m not sure as I don’t have a MMU and have no plans to acquire one, however I did see some posts about people trying to get it working with the duet.
There's lots more, but this is just the top things I could type out as the moment.
Why do you feel you needed to replace your fans? The Duets have jumpers on the fan ports that switches between VIN and 5V.