Octoprint vs SD card printing question  

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mgoblue
(@mgoblue)
Eminent Member

Hello all,

 

New owner of a Prusa i3 MK3S, and wanting to run Octoprint for the convenience of remote control and upload direct from Prusa Slicer or Simplify 3D.  I know that there are some caveats - like the loss of Power Panic functionality (and maybe the filament sensor functions?), but I just wanted to double check something...

 

Does the z-offset calibration apply to files sent via Octoprint?  I think I have it dialed in from the adjustment where it prints the lines and you adjust Z-height during the setup process, but I want to make sure that this setting carries over when using Octoprint.

Added notes:  I have had a Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 for about 3 years, and the majority of that time was using Octoprint, so I am familiar with it.  This MK3S is a BEAST in comparison to that MS V2.1! 

I have just printed a few of the demo files with it so far, but I trying to get my first decent part in ABS as I type this (the vase).  I have it in a slightly modified version of the Ikea Lack enclosure (no legs, have it sitting on the corner of a desk).  It is an order of magnitude quieter than the MS V2.1, and even more impressive when in the enclosure!

Thanks!

Posted : 15/07/2019 2:48 am
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Famed Member

To avoid any confusion. You generally do not want to do 1st layer Z adjustments in your slicer with the Mk3. Get your Live-Z setting calibrated (initial gap between nozzle and bed) and the mesh bed leveling will do a good job keeping the distance consistent across the surface.

  1. Try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the on-board routine. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When it's right, you should be able to gently rub it without it coming loose. Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines without dislodging them. 
  2. If you have any Z adjustments in your slicer, I'd zero them at least until you get things working consistently.
  3. Do watch out for temps printing PLA in an enclosure during warm months. The E3D V6 hotend is air cooled and rated to 40C ambient temps. Approach or exceed that and PLA can soften prematurely, causing a range of problems. Keep enclosure doors open for PLA.
  4. Make sure your print surface is clean. Prusa now only recommends alcohol for cleaning the textured sheet. If you have the smooth PEI,
    take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails , and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite pad or equivalent on smooth PEI to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently.
My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan...
Posted : 15/07/2019 2:57 am
mgoblue
(@mgoblue)
Eminent Member

Thanks for the quick reply.

1.  I will try that Live Adjust suggestion above tomorrow.  Once that is set in the printer it "sticks", correct?  (Applies to all subsequent prints?).

2. I don't currently have any zero adjustment in the slicer.  I was basically trying to confirm my assumption in #1 above.

3. I am printing an 3 hour ABS part right now, and I have a temperature sensor inside - showing about 85F at the bottom of the enclosure and about 95F about two-thirds of the way up.  I will open up the doors for PLA as you stated - ABS was my nemesis before this (without the enclosure on the MSV2.1).

4. I got the textured powder coated sheet with my printer.  That states "NO ACETONE" on the package label, so I will relegate my acetone to cleaning the old printer's glass bed (I used hairspray with it for adhesion, and the acetone worked well on that.  I will get some IA to use with this new printer soon!

 

Thanks again

Posted : 15/07/2019 3:44 am
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Famed Member
Posted by: mgoblue

[...] 

1.  I will try that Live Adjust suggestion above tomorrow.  Once that is set in the printer it "sticks", correct?  (Applies to all subsequent prints?).

It is saved to non-volatile memory, yes. It should be retained between power-offs etc. Keep in mind, you need to re-calibrate if you change nozzles or beds. I do it after firmware updates as well.

2. I don't currently have any zero adjustment in the slicer.  I was basically trying to confirm my assumption in #1 above.

OK, good deal. I've been lurking in many of the Reddit 3D printing groups, and I'm often surprised at things I take for granted. A lot of folks have to do a lot of work for bed leveling, including entering Z offsets in slicer profiles. Thought I'd confirm.

3. I am printing an 3 hour ABS part right now, and I have a temperature sensor inside - showing about 85F at the bottom of the enclosure and about 95F about two-thirds of the way up.  I will open up the doors for PLA as you stated - ABS was my nemesis before this (without the enclosure on the MSV2.1).

We saw a lot of people jump from the frying pan into the fire last year. There was a big rush to build enclosures in spring after the Prusa Lack table article, only to be followed by a rush of "extruder click" and "hotend jam" posts as the months got hotter for many users. It wasn't immediately obvious at first, but with PLA's low melt temps, it makes sense. I recommend mastering PETG during summer months!

4. I got the textured powder coated sheet with my printer.  That states "NO ACETONE" on the package label, so I will relegate my acetone to cleaning the old printer's glass bed (I used hairspray with it for adhesion, and the acetone worked well on that.  I will get some IA to use with this new printer soon!

Most people seem to get good results with the new sheets. Mine's a bit difficult, so I've "abused" it with the same techniques that were originally recommended (wash under sink with Dawn dish soap, wipe with acetone) but this shouldn't be necessary any longer. They don't seem to be covered by warranty so I'm not too worried about it.

Have fun with it!

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan...
Posted : 15/07/2019 6:31 am
mgoblue
(@mgoblue)
Eminent Member

I have been printing almost exclusively with PETG on the MSV2.1, and it has been working pretty well. Haven't tried PETG on the MK3S yet.

Posted : 15/07/2019 3:05 pm
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