E3D Copper heater block possible issue  

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alan.c15
(@alan-c15)
New Member

So I am running the stock extruder with the E3D Copper heater block and have run into a problem I think might be caused by it. I have tried many different part fan shrouds and they all have deformed to the point of being useless on longer prints. The bigger problem this causes is it will sag enough to cause a crash. Has anyone switched to the copper block and had no issues at all? I misplaced(probably tossed) the aluminum block and am ordering a new one to swap out and see if that changes anything.

Posted : 09/07/2020 7:48 pm
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member

I am not having issues since adding the E3D nickel-plated copper block to my Mk3. I'm still able to use my original ABS Mk3 fan shroud as well as several variations printed with ColorFabb HT. I do use a silicone sock which might help, but I also print without it regularly. What material did you print the fan shrouds with?

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Posted : 09/07/2020 8:51 pm
Karl Herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Famed Member
Posted by: @alan-c15

So I am running the stock extruder with the E3D Copper heater block and have run into a problem I think might be caused by it. I have tried many different part fan shrouds and they all have deformed to the point of being useless on longer prints. The bigger problem this causes is it will sag enough to cause a crash. Has anyone switched to the copper block and had no issues at all? I misplaced(probably tossed) the aluminum block and am ordering a new one to swap out and see if that changes anything.

Try to print the fanshroud with more heatresistant filament, more fanspeed and/or silicone sock:

more heatresistant filaments are ABS, Nylon, ASA, PC, PP, HT-PLA, (PEEK - i printed my fanshroud from carbonpeek, but with a PT100 modified MK3).

This post was modified 4 weeks ago 2 times by Karl Herbert
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen....
Posted : 09/07/2020 9:05 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

@karl-herbert

What temp does that require?  

Posted : 09/07/2020 10:05 pm
Karl Herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Famed Member

@charles-h13

360 degrees nozzle temp and 140-150 degrees bedtemp (voltage increased to 30v) with or without enclosure. Printed with the PT100/titanum heatbreak/copper_nickel heaterblock, 50W heater cartridge upgrade, x-nozzle 0.4, textured Prusa plate with DuPont Kapton. After printing tempered at 280 degrees about one hour and gradually cool down slowly. After tempering heatresistant up to 260 degrees, melting temperature at about 340 degrees.

Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen....
Posted : 09/07/2020 10:45 pm
Karl Herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Famed Member

Here the source of CarbonPEEK, but not cheap. I bought 250 grams for testing purposes: https://www.3dxtech.com/carbon-fiber-filaments/carbonx-peek-cf/

currently i am also testing the CarbonNylon: https://www.3dxtech.com/carbon-fiber-filaments/carbonx-nylon-pa6-cf/ but with nozzle diameters smaller than 0.4mm very difficult to impossible to print.

Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen....
Posted : 09/07/2020 11:02 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

@karl-herbert

Great find.

For those wanting it from Amazon, Carbonx-Peek is the same price.  I order one to give it a try.  

Posted : 09/07/2020 11:47 pm
keri7240
(@keri7240)
Active Member

Only issue I had with using the E3D copper block on my MK 2.5s was that it seemed to induce thermal runaway faults when printing with PLA... adding a E3D sock cured it. 

Otherwise the standard cooling duct printed in ABS is holding up OK, with no drooping even with PETG and ABS prints. 

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Posted : 12/07/2020 9:09 pm
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