You're a noob ? me too ! here my tips to get started.
I have had a fully build Mk2S for 2 weeks now and it's been a rough ride...
I'm not the most technically skilled person in the world but reasonably at ease in IT. However i can't use tools, like a screwdriver. Seems to go wrong when i touch these.
So here is what i discovered the hard way, trial and error, reading forums - which i thought i'd share with you. If there are other noobs out there 😀 .
I'll update as i find out more and if i'm brave i ll put the links too. and pics maybe .
0) update your drivers and firmware
Quite well explained in tutorials.
1) Getting a design done
There are plenty of 3d tools out there. I didn't touch slic3r yet but used Tinkercard. Seems to work all fine.
2) Exporting the file and bringing it to the printer
You need to Export a .STL file from the 3d software, then open PrusaControl that is delivered with the drivers.
Use Reset, then Import model and find your .STL.
In Prusa you can choose a different scale for the object, and change some parameters :
- Filament type : this is KEY ! took me 3 trials to notice this drop down box. This changes the temperatures the Mk2S will use to print... i sabotaged some ColorFabb XT prints before finding out.
- Fill : this is apparently to specify how you deal with solid prints , usually not all the inside is filled in.
- layer height : the lower the more precise, and also the longer to print
You can then Generage gcode and save it. This .gcode is the file you have to transfer to the SD card that goes in the printer (next to the screen if like me you were wondering...)
3) Calibrating !!
This is key. Follow the startup video by Josef Prusa, works well.
I got stuck at some point, 4th calibration point wouldnt work. I use the Bed levelling in calibration menu to solve that.
When using the XYZ calibration I still don't get past the point where the nozzle catches the paper... Looks like i have to adjust the PINDA probe. More on that later when i try it.
4) Clean the bed
This is key !
This made the difference for me between lifting / warping and stable prints.
I spent hours researching what the f... isopropyl alcohol could be, went to IT shops and they had nothing. Finally bought regular 94% alcohol from a pharmacy... works. That must be isopropyl 🙄 .
5) Print the calibration zigzag and adjust Live Z
I think the file is called v2calibration on the SD card.
Now the tricky part : you'll have to adjust your live Z so that the filament sticks to the bed, for the first layer. this is critical.
You want to have it low enough so it doesnt lift from the bed, but not so low that the filament can't get out.
6) Go for print.
Print from SD card and choose your file.
Re: You're a noob ? me too ! here my tips to get started.
<r>Nice to see youre so enthusiastic <E>:)</E> <br/>
<br/>
Slic3r is not the same as tinkercad. Slic3r is like Prusa Control just with more settings you can work with. I find that Prusa Control actualy uses Slic3r to generate the gcode, as it names it in the top of the code, just one sub-version above of what my Slic3r is. <br/>
<br/>
You basically need that alcholol you got from the pharmacy, thats the right kind. <E>:)</E></r>
As for the problems you had with calibration. Reset the manual bed level. First lower the probe, just never lower than the nozzle or it will catch the paper, which it must not. It will then also scratch the bed if it catches the paper.
The probe is there to make sure that each point is the same height from the nozzle, but does not set the correct Z height yet.
Then you have to adjust it with the calibration gcode.
I dont like the calibration gcode to much. I rather use something I found on thingiverse. Bed level calibration something, for Mk2.
It makes 12 towers (but you only need the first layer). I modified mine to only do the first layer and stop.
With this I gind it easier to get the first layer height as it does a perimiter and infill. Not just a zigzag line.
It also does it all over the bed. You can that see if any part of zhe bad has to much or to little Z height and you can use the manual Bed leveling in the calibration menu.
Saying all that. Some materials require different z height. Id love a way to save Z height or do the first layer calibration per material.
Writing from my phone. Apologies for any typos.
I’ll also upload the gcode I use tor calibration from my PC . 🙂
Re: You're a noob ? me too ! here my tips to get started.
Nice to see youre so enthusiastic 🙂
Slic3r is not the same as tinkercad. Slic3r is like Prusa Control just with more settings you can work with. I find that Prusa Control actualy uses Slic3r to generate the gcode, as it names it in the top of the code, just one sub-version above of what my Slic3r is.
You basically need that alcholol you got from the pharmacy, thats the right kind. 🙂
As for the problems you had with calibration. Reset the manual bed level. First lower the probe, just never lower than the nozzle or it will catch the paper, which it must not. It will then also scratch the bed if it catches the paper.
The probe is there to make sure that each point is the same height from the nozzle, but does not set the correct Z height yet.
Then you have to adjust it with the calibration gcode.
I dont like the calibration gcode to much. I rather use something I found on thingiverse. Bed level calibration something, for Mk2.
It makes 12 towers (but you only need the first layer). I modified mine to only do the first layer and stop.
With this I gind it easier to get the first layer height as it does a perimiter and infill. Not just a zigzag line.
It also does it all over the bed. You can that see if any part of zhe bad has to much or to little Z height and you can use the manual Bed leveling in the calibration menu.
Saying all that. Some materials require different z height. Id love a way to save Z height or do the first layer calibration per material.
Writing from my phone. Apologies for any typos.
I’ll also upload the gcode I use tor calibration later . 🙂
Re: You're a noob ? me too ! here my tips to get started.
From a bit more experienced noob to noob, some additional clarifications/suggestions:
1. As TomTom said, Slic3r is for slicing and tinkercad for designing. I designed almost all my models with tinkercad and it's very intuitiv, a great way to get into 3D design. Until you hit a wall because you want a screw whole on a different place, or just have the top of a box rounded but not the bottom and so on. That's why I switched to fusion 360 now, a proper 3D/CAD program where you sketch what you want and then generate a model out of it. You can later on make adjustments on the model or the sketch and I think it is free as long as it's not used professionally.
2. Don't rely on the preset filament settings but experiment with your own, especially the temperature settings (start at the bottom of the vendor recommended value). Also - and this took me almost 6 months to realize - for most parts it makes no sense to use a layer height of less than 0.15mm, especially when printing parts with a 100% infill. Btw that's another learning I've had: infill can cause real problems of all sorts, stability and printing top layers being the most prominent. Don't be afraid to use 100% infill on structural important parts. Also, don't go too high with print speed, I find my prusa most reliable across all filament and layer heights with 40mm/s (which is the preset).
3 + 5. Yes this is key, I'd recommend to skimm through this thread and use the calibration code provided in the entry post: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html
4. True, I never print before cleaning the bed, which is why I created a paper towel holder for the MK2s: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/hall-of-fame-best-3d-prints-f15/prusa-mk2s-multi-purpose-platform-t6631.html
Btw, that's the last part I designed with Tinkercad, took me 2 evenings and 3 failed prints, something I can do now withing minutes in fusion.
Happy printing 😉
Re: You're a noob ? me too ! here my tips to get started.
Amazing !
thanks guys . Will update the initial post with your contributions.
Re: You're a noob ? me too ! here my tips to get started.
Here are some other begging notes:
Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage or loss. If you solve your problem, please post the solution…
Re: You're a noob ? me too ! here my tips to get started.
thx ! well i'll need some time to edit and compile.