Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon  

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

some more changes for the better...

by accident i forgot to edit some gcode to kick start my fan at 10% or lower... my cooling fan seems to stick and i have to preset it to 50% then bring the speed down to make it spin up... any way... a print came out very good with the fan not working at all like it was suppose to.

that lead me back to autocool to make it do what i wanted.

I turned autocool on, Disabled the fan and just forced the machine to slow down for layers under 15mm/s

the key is using the automatic slow down function in the autocool system.. Cura allows this to be seperate from the fans function but slic3r has everything together.

so fan speed all set to zero
enable fan if layer print time is below: set to 0 (effected gcode generation)
slow down if layer print time is below: set to 15m/s
min print speed: set to 3mm/s (seemed to effect gcode generation)

use supports if you have bridging. better it all melts into a blob then having loose nylon strings.

i will play around some more but the prints started to look really good, problem is de-lamination came back.
since i pulled the extruder back on the multiplier the extra melted nylon that was holding things together went away and things got weak
even without the fan... thus i need to increase tempature which is what i want anyway.
going to increase tempature 5C at a time to see what happens.
i'm looking for the material to just melt slightly to get strength.

I cannot say this enough: you need to cook the hell out of the nylon and get as much water out as possible i found even new in the sealed package with the desiccant the nylon was extremely wet and made things hell.

I'm baking mine like 18 hours at a time at 160C in a filament dryer, i print for a few hours making tests and then throw the entire spool back into the dryer.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

Thanks for the play by play - very interesting! I have some nylon but haven't even cracked the bag open yet. Been waiting for a worthy enough project because I know I will be wasting a lot getting the settings dialed in. 🙂

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

i will be working on it tonight.

At first 250-255 temp in the extruder seemed to be bad because the filament was so Oozy and things were boogering all over the place i just could not get a handle on it. the stringing was so bad that it was making hair and not shapes.

the big tip as others have posted about is drying that filament out. I'm not kidding you have to dry all the water out of it before even thinking about using it. so dry it with some serious heat for a long time, and when you are done,, put it back in the oven no joke....
out of the vaccum sealed bag the filament was REALLY wet compared to how i have it now.

I can see why people leave it in the filament dryer and leave it on and have a tube from the dryer to the extruder. basically after maybe 6 hours the stuff is so wet again you have to stop and bake it for like 18 hours again. after 24 hours out of the dryer is when you start to hear the pops from the extruder nozzle and by then it is way way too wet to do anything with.

after get the water out, and pulling back the amount of nylon a lot i'm getting a clearer picture of what it is doing.
that fan mistake on my part was a good thing because i was able to get some small parts out of the printer that looked good without any fan and at 245 degrees the problem is the larger parts of the model are now weak. at 245 some larger areas are cooling too rapidly on its own.

so first i will try increasing heat 5C at a time to see what happens. i may need to kick the multiplier back again the more heat the more it seems to over extrude and string.

turned out that .5mm tolerance i was getting with it was due to over extruding and not shrinkage. i figured that out when i reversed the Infill before perimeters box then the tolerance changed from inside too tight to outside too tight.

Bridge nylon is so close to the way ABS behaves but much worse so i'm thinking to apply what i learned to Hatchbox ABS and see if i get some strength to my ABS tests as well.

Issues right now: once again strength issues and de-lamination similar to ABS.

the autocool with fans disabled using for increasing small layers time made a big difference.

this material is hard to work with.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

run at 250 was encouraging. the settings held the part came out and was a little shiner then the 245 temp version.
i just modified the 245 Gcode and reset the temp to 250. at 250 the small details stayed about the same. the multiplier held and the part appears to maintain the same tolerance.

i have a ABS shaft with thread and i'm making the cap out of nylon for testing to see if the dimensions stay the same

now running 255 to see results. the shine increase is telling me better nylon bonding.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

ok 255 went really well same as 245 in shape no melting is apparent yet. shine is about the same.

i'm actually shocked i would of expected major problems going up 10C

i'm going to try 260C

here is the cap series from using a 'fan without autocool' to using no fan with min layer time and no fan 245 to 255

a strength test at 245 that failed. Nylon starts to make cracking sounds like PLA or abs then cracks and you can see the layers de-laminated.

i was able to initially break the tube in half by hand then i use pliers to crush the tube and observe more de-lamination.

that part takes around 2 hours to print so if things go well with these 10-40 minute tests then i will try the larger piece.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

260 just finished VERY slight stringing is visable. dimension test was perfect.
the very top of the bridge support material is harder to remove.
no evidence of really melting badly like before at lower temperature with no layer time stability.

pliers bending test on the top and i can't break it
wow really cool

if i tried that with ABS the top would just pop right off, and before with Nylon it would start to crack and pop off.
ok more testing.

current settings
; filament used = 537.0mm (1.3cm3)
; total filament cost = 0.0

; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
; bed_shape = 0x0,250x0,250x210,0x210
; bed_temperature = 50
; before_layer_gcode = ; New layer [layer_num]
; bridge_acceleration = 1000
; bridge_fan_speed = 0
; brim_width = 6
; complete_objects = 0
; cooling = 1
; default_acceleration = 1000
; disable_fan_first_layers = 2
; duplicate_distance = 6
; end_gcode = G4 ; wait\nM104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nM140 S0 ; turn off heatbed\nM107 ; turn off fan\nG1 X0 Y200; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n;IndianaJones\nM300 S1318 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1396 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2093 P720\nM300 S0 P180\nM300 S1174 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1318 P120\nM300 S1396 P960\nM300 S0 P360\nM300 S1567 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S880 P120\nM300 S987 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2793 P720\nM300 S0 P240\nM300 S880 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S987 P120\nM300 S2093 P480\nM300 S2349 P480\nM300 S2637 P480\nM300 S1318 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1396 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2093 P960\nM300 S0 P240\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2637 P120\nM300 S2793 P960\nM300 S1567 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2637 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2637 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2793 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2637 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P120\nM300 S2093 P960\n
; extruder_clearance_height = 20
; extruder_clearance_radius = 20
; extruder_offset = 0x0
; extrusion_axis = E
; extrusion_multiplier = 0.85
; fan_always_on = 0
; fan_below_layer_time = 0
; filament_colour = #DEE0E6
; filament_cost = 0
; filament_density = 0
; filament_diameter = 1.75
; filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
; filament_notes = ""
; first_layer_acceleration = 1000
; first_layer_bed_temperature = 90
; first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42
; first_layer_speed = 70%
; first_layer_temperature = 240
; gcode_arcs = 0
; gcode_comments = 0
; gcode_flavor = reprap
; infill_acceleration = 2000
; infill_first = 0
; layer_gcode =
; max_fan_speed = 0
; max_layer_height = 0.25
; max_print_speed = 100
; max_volumetric_extrusion_rate_slope_negative = 0
; max_volumetric_extrusion_rate_slope_positive = 0
; max_volumetric_speed = 0
; min_fan_speed = 0
; min_layer_height = 0.07
; min_print_speed = 3
; min_skirt_length = 4
; notes =
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 0
; ooze_prevention = 0
; output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
; perimeter_acceleration = 800
; post_process =
; pressure_advance = 0
; resolution = 0
; retract_before_travel = 1
; retract_layer_change = 1
; retract_length = 4
; retract_length_toolchange = 3
; retract_lift = 0
; retract_lift_above = 1
; retract_lift_below = 199
; retract_restart_extra = 0
; retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
; retract_speed = 80
; skirt_distance = 2
; skirt_height = 1
; skirts = 0
; slowdown_below_layer_time = 15
; spiral_vase = 0
; standby_temperature_delta = -5
; start_gcode = M115 U3.0.9 ; tell printer latest fw version\nM83 ; extruder relative mode\nM104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp\nM140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp\nM190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp\nM109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp\nG28 W ; home all without mesh bed level\nG80 ; mesh bed leveling\nG1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside pritn area\nG1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
; temperature = 260
; threads = 4
; toolchange_gcode =
; travel_speed = 120
; use_firmware_retraction = 0
; use_relative_e_distances = 1
; use_volumetric_e = 0
; variable_layer_height = 1
; wipe = 1
; z_offset = 0
; clip_multipart_objects = 1
; dont_support_bridges = 1
; extrusion_width = 0.45
; first_layer_height = 0.2
; infill_only_where_needed = 0
; interface_shells = 0
; layer_height = 0.15
; raft_layers = 0
; seam_position = random
; support_material = 1
; support_material_angle = 0
; support_material_buildplate_only = 1
; support_material_contact_distance = 0.3
; support_material_enforce_layers = 0
; support_material_extruder = 1
; support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35
; support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0
; support_material_interface_extruder = 1
; support_material_interface_layers = 3
; support_material_interface_spacing = 0.2
; support_material_interface_speed = 100%
; support_material_pattern = rectilinear
; support_material_spacing = 2.5
; support_material_speed = 50
; support_material_synchronize_layers = 0
; support_material_threshold = 35
; support_material_with_sheath = 0
; support_material_xy_spacing = 50%
; xy_size_compensation = 0
; bottom_solid_layers = 7
; bridge_flow_ratio = 0.8
; bridge_speed = 20
; ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 1
; external_fill_pattern = rectilinear
; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
; external_perimeter_speed = 25
; external_perimeters_first = 0
; extra_perimeters = 0
; fill_angle = 45
; fill_density = 100%
; fill_pattern = rectilinear
; gap_fill_speed = 40
; infill_every_layers = 1
; infill_extruder = 1
; infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; infill_overlap = 25%
; infill_speed = 60
; overhangs = 1
; perimeter_extruder = 1
; perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
; perimeter_speed = 40
; perimeters = 3
; small_perimeter_speed = 20
; solid_infill_below_area = 0
; solid_infill_every_layers = 0
; solid_infill_extruder = 1
; solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; solid_infill_speed = 40
; thin_walls = 0
; top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; top_solid_infill_speed = 30
; top_solid_layers = 9

I think Drying the filament over and over at over 160C is a major key to this puzzle.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

i am extremely impressed... the body came out amazing, this was at 260C with NO cooling fan, except the extruder.
it came right off the bed, i pulled the support material out and the caps went right on. its not perfect.

now i'm kind of in love with it so i put some force on it more then i put on the 245 version that i broke by hand and this one is holding together with more strength then i have seen yet.

where i am now verse start the clean left one is at 260c no fan, the 3 lefts were at temps under 250 with fan

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

ah now i understand the 'min print speed' located under the cooling thresholds

that number in mm/s tells the printer when to ignore layer speed under that threshold.
so i had it set to 3mm/s and i noticed in Gcode Viewer.

(if you have not downloaded this Gcode viewer you are missing out. https://github.com/hudbrog/gCodeViewer )

so i noticed as i was checking layers that suddenly i was getting 2.9 layer speeds when i wanted at least 15 mm/s
then i remembered the 'min print speed' and set it to '0' launched back into Gcode viewer and now my layers are going back to over to what i wanted.

so Slic3r runs autocooling until it hits the min speed threshold then ignores autocool and goes back to whatever the original settings were.
setting to Zero forces the algorithm all the way down to nothing layer size.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

Very promising progress! I for one appreciate your pioneering efforts into this area since we will all be able to benefit from these lessons! Thanks!

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

i want people to follow and find better ways if possible it benefits us all. there are still limits and i'm finding that there is no good compromise for some designs they just will not work well as a 3d printed item.

based on these results i want to go back to ABS and try again,, i could make ABS parts look great but they were brittle as chalk.

there are still things to play with like replacing all infill with perimeter walls which are stronger according to what i read.
the high temps i'm running might need another slight pull back on the multiplier.
hand editing certain areas to lower the temperature when the area is very small.

Slic3r will not let you make a heat tower like Simplfy 3d so if i toss a 104 code to lower an area from 260 to 240 it might help since in a very small area the heat retention is so high it just melts instead of laying nicely, i tried a 10C drop in an area last night with no change so i want to try a 20C drop and see what happens.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

ok really cool..

So if you by hand modify the areas of your Gcode where the layers produced are under 3mm so the heat drops below 260 it is possible to make it work.

for this part areas are 2mm and under, so i took it down to 240C starting at the layer just below where the part becomes very small.

Right spring perch was printed at a constant 260 without fans autocool set to layer timing only. it is too melted to allow the ball socket to fit as it has weak point and would snap.

Left perch Gcode was edited 1 level below the ball socket to drop from 260 to 240C (i tried 250 and it was still melting too much)

I needed just a little hand work to get the fitment of the lower ball socket. i think i can do better the next time.

now the design is inherently weak because i'm copying an injection molded nylon part. but i'm amazed i got this far, the 3d printed shock is 100% functional with internal piston and seals.

so i'm going to have to start strength tests.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

running almost same settings with ABS.
really the only change is I lowered the temps. Hatchbox lists 240 as the limit on the website for their ABS brand. bed at constant 100C
I baked the ABS pretty much the last 12 hours at 160C

Same idea with the nylon, no fans at all (other then the extruder fan)

now this is impressive even though it doesn't look great
before at 255 with Fans the entire top loop of the ball joint was a melted mess. i think it over extruded a bit might do better to roll it back a little.

now i'm going to break it and see is it any better?
ok poping the ball joint in and it cracked since ABS does not give i expected this.

Nylon stretches so i expected this. however it cracked and stays together before it blew apart into dust.

WOW before i could snap the stem off the top by hand i'm using pliers and it is not snapping off i broke the loop off you can see the tool marks it is WAY stronger then before.

you can see my plier marks before i could snap that stem off with my hands.

dimensionally it is a little tight leading back towards the multiplier needing to drop slightly, the bridging wasn't great again could be the multiplier.

this came out way stronger then ever before and at lower temps with no cooling fans.

here is an older one on the right I made under the normal slic3r settings defaults where i had no trouble snapping that stem off.

there is a significant strength increase in the ABS using this settings. Also it holds a much smaller area much better then the defaults.

another fast example

the right one i snapped that piece off easily with pliers.
the left one it didn't snap the plier slipped on it numerous times and then it bend and pulled the ABS

; filament used = 598.7mm (1.4cm3)
; total filament cost = 0.0

; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
; bed_shape = 0x0,250x0,250x210,0x210
; bed_temperature = 100
; before_layer_gcode = ; New layer [layer_num]
; bridge_acceleration = 1000
; bridge_fan_speed = 0
; brim_width = 6
; complete_objects = 0
; cooling = 1
; default_acceleration = 1000
; disable_fan_first_layers = 2
; duplicate_distance = 6
; end_gcode = G4 ; wait\nM104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nM140 S0 ; turn off heatbed\nM107 ; turn off fan\nG1 X0 Y200; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n;IndianaJones\nM300 S1318 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1396 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2093 P720\nM300 S0 P180\nM300 S1174 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1318 P120\nM300 S1396 P960\nM300 S0 P360\nM300 S1567 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S880 P120\nM300 S987 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2793 P720\nM300 S0 P240\nM300 S880 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S987 P120\nM300 S2093 P480\nM300 S2349 P480\nM300 S2637 P480\nM300 S1318 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1396 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2093 P960\nM300 S0 P240\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2637 P120\nM300 S2793 P960\nM300 S1567 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2637 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2637 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2793 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2637 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P120\nM300 S2093 P960\n
; extruder_clearance_height = 20
; extruder_clearance_radius = 20
; extruder_offset = 0x0
; extrusion_axis = E
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; fan_always_on = 0
; fan_below_layer_time = 0
; filament_colour = #FFFFFF
; filament_cost = 0
; filament_density = 0
; filament_diameter = 1.75
; filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
; filament_notes = ""
; first_layer_acceleration = 1000
; first_layer_bed_temperature = 100
; first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42
; first_layer_speed = 70%
; first_layer_temperature = 240
; gcode_arcs = 0
; gcode_comments = 0
; gcode_flavor = reprap
; infill_acceleration = 2000
; infill_first = 0
; layer_gcode =
; max_fan_speed = 0
; max_layer_height = 0.25
; max_print_speed = 100
; max_volumetric_extrusion_rate_slope_negative = 0
; max_volumetric_extrusion_rate_slope_positive = 0
; max_volumetric_speed = 0
; min_fan_speed = 0
; min_layer_height = 0.07
; min_print_speed = 0
; min_skirt_length = 4
; notes =
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 0
; ooze_prevention = 0
; output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
; perimeter_acceleration = 800
; post_process =
; pressure_advance = 0
; resolution = 0
; retract_before_travel = 1
; retract_layer_change = 1
; retract_length = 4
; retract_length_toolchange = 3
; retract_lift = 0
; retract_lift_above = 1
; retract_lift_below = 199
; retract_restart_extra = 0
; retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
; retract_speed = 80
; skirt_distance = 2
; skirt_height = 1
; skirts = 0
; slowdown_below_layer_time = 15
; spiral_vase = 0
; standby_temperature_delta = -5
; start_gcode = M115 U3.0.9 ; tell printer latest fw version\nM83 ; extruder relative mode\nM104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp\nM140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp\nM190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp\nM109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp\nG28 W ; home all without mesh bed level\nG80 ; mesh bed leveling\nG1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside pritn area\nG1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
; temperature = 240
; threads = 4
; toolchange_gcode =
; travel_speed = 120
; use_firmware_retraction = 0
; use_relative_e_distances = 1
; use_volumetric_e = 0
; variable_layer_height = 1
; wipe = 1
; z_offset = 0
; clip_multipart_objects = 1
; dont_support_bridges = 1
; extrusion_width = 0.45
; first_layer_height = 0.2
; infill_only_where_needed = 0
; interface_shells = 0
; layer_height = 0.15
; raft_layers = 0
; seam_position = random
; support_material = 1
; support_material_angle = 0
; support_material_buildplate_only = 1
; support_material_contact_distance = 0.3
; support_material_enforce_layers = 0
; support_material_extruder = 1
; support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35
; support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0
; support_material_interface_extruder = 1
; support_material_interface_layers = 3
; support_material_interface_spacing = 0.2
; support_material_interface_speed = 100%
; support_material_pattern = rectilinear
; support_material_spacing = 2.5
; support_material_speed = 50
; support_material_synchronize_layers = 0
; support_material_threshold = 35
; support_material_with_sheath = 0
; support_material_xy_spacing = 50%
; xy_size_compensation = 0
; bottom_solid_layers = 7
; bridge_flow_ratio = 0.8
; bridge_speed = 20
; ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 1
; external_fill_pattern = rectilinear
; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
; external_perimeter_speed = 25
; external_perimeters_first = 0
; extra_perimeters = 0
; fill_angle = 45
; fill_density = 100%
; fill_pattern = rectilinear
; gap_fill_speed = 40
; infill_every_layers = 1
; infill_extruder = 1
; infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; infill_overlap = 25%
; infill_speed = 60
; overhangs = 1
; perimeter_extruder = 1
; perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
; perimeter_speed = 40
; perimeters = 3
; small_perimeter_speed = 20
; solid_infill_below_area = 0
; solid_infill_every_layers = 0
; solid_infill_extruder = 1
; solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; solid_infill_speed = 40
; thin_walls = 0
; top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; top_solid_infill_speed = 30
; top_solid_layers = 9

Nylon and ABS should be treated the same with just slight variation

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

some more updates.

so i'm printing at 260C with no cooling fans at all(extruder cooling fan is running as normal) Pretty much figured out the autocool settings as far as slowing down layer time to at least 15s per layer for small items. i found you may need to generate 2 different Gcode settings in slic3r and then merge them together into one gcode to save time instead of major hand editing of code.

what i find is de-lamination is still a issue. also infill tends to not fill 100% as you expect.

As parts get larger with nylon they lose heat very quickly so you have this upper and lower limit with nylon trying to keep it crystallized and bonding properly.

i read another article about nylon and how you either have to keep pumping heat into it or you need to slow down printing even more.

I think i'm already at the limit as far as heat is concerned. i don't want to damage the teflon tube inside the extruder. nylon is a weird one as it seems to transfer heat fast from point A to B.

so you have to slow down printing more. one recommendation is 80% of ABS speeds.

Nylon also seems to spread out. reducing the extrusion multiplier seems to help i'm down to 83% now, however I may find more benefit in adjusting the extruder widths. from .45 or .43 to .40. have to play with it. mayeb try some different tests to narrow down direction.

The prints are really coming out nice but structurally not 100% there yet. right now the smaller parts are coming out stronger as they appear more bonded, they are shiner and have a slight glass like appearance. the larger parts are not as strong some de-lamination under stress, they appear white and you can see the layers are more visible. this is still a massive improvement from where i started where small parts were a melted mess and large parts were brittle and you could pick the layers apart like a yarn Sweater by hand.

with small parts the nozzle is applying more heat for a longer amount of time in a small area verse a large area that looses heat faster, i can't go hotter so i have to go slower once again.

i applied some of these settings to ABS and was getting much better results as well.

the experimentation continues.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

Good work and thanks for sharing. I'm just about to jump into nylon and chose to start with Taulman Nylon 230 to get a feel for nylon with a more forgiving variety. I will be following your updates and share what I experience when I get into playing with it.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

really good results
i took my same settings and instead of modifying anything i just dropped the speed on the MK2s to 80% the result took longer but
the nylon is MUCH shiner the dimensions held a little better, the part feels stronger in my hands less flexible.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

oh wow i just crushed the tubes i made.

so both the 100% and the 80% speed parts are Amazingly strong compared to where i started.

the 100% speed version is VERY flexible

the 80% version is Much stronger but is slightly brittle. i can bend both into Us but you can hear the 80% making some cracking sounds.
the 100% version just mushes no noise.

after repeated crushes i'm able to start to separate on layers with the 80% the 100% is very flexable still without obvious cracks appearing but i'm sure it is compromised

i never thought i would see this strength. i'm using a keyboard size pair of Vice grips for leverage.

more playing around to come.

adding more Perimeters increases strength as well.

latest settings:

; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
; bed_shape = 0x0,250x0,250x210,0x210
; bed_temperature = 50
; before_layer_gcode = ; New layer [layer_num]
; bridge_acceleration = 1000
; bridge_fan_speed = 0
; brim_width = 6
; complete_objects = 0
; cooling = 1
; default_acceleration = 1000
; disable_fan_first_layers = 2
; duplicate_distance = 6
; end_gcode = G4 ; wait\nM104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nM140 S0 ; turn off heatbed\nM107 ; turn off fan\nG1 X0 Y200; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n;IndianaJones\nM300 S1318 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1396 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2093 P720\nM300 S0 P180\nM300 S1174 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1318 P120\nM300 S1396 P960\nM300 S0 P360\nM300 S1567 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S880 P120\nM300 S987 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2793 P720\nM300 S0 P240\nM300 S880 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S987 P120\nM300 S2093 P480\nM300 S2349 P480\nM300 S2637 P480\nM300 S1318 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1396 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2093 P960\nM300 S0 P240\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2637 P120\nM300 S2793 P960\nM300 S1567 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2637 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2637 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S1567 P120\nM300 S2793 P360\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2637 P240\nM300 S0 P120\nM300 S2349 P120\nM300 S2093 P960\n
; extruder_clearance_height = 20
; extruder_clearance_radius = 20
; extruder_offset = 0x0
; extrusion_axis = E
; extrusion_multiplier = 0.83
; fan_always_on = 0
; fan_below_layer_time = 0
; filament_colour = #DEE0E6
; filament_cost = 0
; filament_density = 0
; filament_diameter = 1.75
; filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
; filament_notes = ""
; first_layer_acceleration = 1000
; first_layer_bed_temperature = 90
; first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42
; first_layer_speed = 70%
; first_layer_temperature = 240
; gcode_arcs = 0
; gcode_comments = 0
; gcode_flavor = reprap
; infill_acceleration = 2000
; infill_first = 0
; layer_gcode =
; max_fan_speed = 0
; max_layer_height = 0.25
; max_print_speed = 100
; max_volumetric_extrusion_rate_slope_negative = 0
; max_volumetric_extrusion_rate_slope_positive = 0
; max_volumetric_speed = 0
; min_fan_speed = 0
; min_layer_height = 0.07
; min_print_speed = 0
; min_skirt_length = 4
; notes =
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 0
; ooze_prevention = 0
; output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
; perimeter_acceleration = 800
; post_process =
; pressure_advance = 0
; resolution = 0
; retract_before_travel = 1
; retract_layer_change = 1
; retract_length = 4
; retract_length_toolchange = 3
; retract_lift = 0
; retract_lift_above = 1
; retract_lift_below = 199
; retract_restart_extra = 0
; retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
; retract_speed = 80
; skirt_distance = 2
; skirt_height = 1
; skirts = 0
; slowdown_below_layer_time = 15
; spiral_vase = 0
; standby_temperature_delta = -5
; start_gcode = M115 U3.0.9 ; tell printer latest fw version\nM83 ; extruder relative mode\nM104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp\nM140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp\nM190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp\nM109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp\nG28 W ; home all without mesh bed level\nG80 ; mesh bed leveling\nG1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside pritn area\nG1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
; temperature = 260
; threads = 4
; toolchange_gcode =
; travel_speed = 120
; use_firmware_retraction = 0
; use_relative_e_distances = 1
; use_volumetric_e = 0
; variable_layer_height = 1
; wipe = 1
; z_offset = 0
; clip_multipart_objects = 1
; dont_support_bridges = 1
; extrusion_width = 0.45
; first_layer_height = 0.2
; infill_only_where_needed = 0
; interface_shells = 0
; layer_height = 0.15
; raft_layers = 0
; seam_position = random
; support_material = 1
; support_material_angle = 0
; support_material_buildplate_only = 1
; support_material_contact_distance = 0.3
; support_material_enforce_layers = 0
; support_material_extruder = 1
; support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35
; support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0
; support_material_interface_extruder = 1
; support_material_interface_layers = 3
; support_material_interface_spacing = 0.3
; support_material_interface_speed = 100%
; support_material_pattern = rectilinear-grid
; support_material_spacing = 3
; support_material_speed = 50
; support_material_synchronize_layers = 0
; support_material_threshold = 0
; support_material_with_sheath = 0
; support_material_xy_spacing = 50%
; xy_size_compensation = 0
; bottom_solid_layers = 7
; bridge_flow_ratio = 0.8
; bridge_speed = 20
; ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 1
; external_fill_pattern = rectilinear
; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
; external_perimeter_speed = 25
; external_perimeters_first = 0
; extra_perimeters = 0
; fill_angle = 45
; fill_density = 100%
; fill_pattern = rectilinear
; gap_fill_speed = 40
; infill_every_layers = 1
; infill_extruder = 1
; infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; infill_overlap = 25%
; infill_speed = 60
; overhangs = 1
; perimeter_extruder = 1
; perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
; perimeter_speed = 40
; perimeters = 10
; small_perimeter_speed = 20
; solid_infill_below_area = 0
; solid_infill_every_layers = 0
; solid_infill_extruder = 1
; solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; solid_infill_speed = 40
; thin_walls = 0
; top_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45
; top_solid_infill_speed = 30
; top_solid_layers = 9

my feeling and i'm dealing with an infill issue to make the tubes 100% water tight is that the more flexable version at 100% is better because i can switch from Bridge nylon to 910 nylon which is suppose to be less flexable and more structural.

i finally got some 910 Nylon to play with so now i can start to see how the 910 responds.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

had a bit of a nozzle clog last night the print completed amazingly well even though it went a little wrong but it made me want to change my approach.

i kept pulling the multiplier back and i think it might be a little too much. so i want to default the nozzle widths to .4 and bring up the multiplier to get the dimensions more accurate. that might give some positive results to my pin hole issues with water tight structures i need.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

different approach worked much better.

First i set all the extrusion widths to the size of the nozzle 0.4 mm

next i took the Extrusion multiplier back to 1.00 from the 80% range.

what this did was compensate for the nylon shrinkage a little so dimension-ally it was closer and required just a little clean up and machining for tolerance.

the Multiplier back to 1.00 or 100% allowed for the nylon to Fill in correctly making a water tight body without pin holes.

what i learned was
1) nylon must be VERY dry before use.

2) no cooling fan at all or it will de-laminate. for ABS it will get brittle.

3) 260C degrees or better if possible however for small parts under 15 seconds per layer you may need to drop into the 240 range.

4) you must use some kind of layer slow down under 15 seconds this holds for ABS as well.
for Slic3r this means enabling the autocooling function but then disabling the Fan completely by Zeroing all Fan function no M106 codes in the Gcode at all. set min print speed to 0mm/s, set enable print fan to zero as well. this forces automatic layer slow down all the way down to nothing size under 15 seconds.

i'm impressed with the strength when you get layer adhesion correct. but there are limitations it will depend on your design and shape of the finished model you may need to make lots of changes to get the results you want.

nylon is Just like ABS but it is more finicky, again the filament must be beyond dryed of all water before use and the shrinkage is worse then ABS.

so while i now have a functional part

it doesn't mean the design is any good.

Re: Slic3r Settings for Taulman Bridge Nylon

applied settings to Taulman 910 and got decent results.

some more observations notes:

you may need to create a large raft or very large Brim to keep the nylon flat enough at the start so dimension-ally it maintains through the print.
910 shrinks up worse then Bridge. so you need a way to Hold down the first couple of layers with lots of Force so that it cannot shrink much.
that will ensure less de-lamination and also less of a problem if the print tries to pop off or curls up and hits the nozzle and pops off the bed.

nylon does not like it when you try to print multiple parts at the same time. it does not tolerate retraction or Zhop well it causes Stringing and de-lamination issues as areas get too cold too fast. it sucks but it works best if you concentrate on one item at a time and not ganging up a ton of nylon parts togther at the same time. the entire print has to be as continuous as possible to maintain strength.

Creating supports will cause stringing, nylon wants to stretch rather then break so when you pop off supports you got lots of stringing. another reason is you need strong support material to keep the nylon from shrinking so much, it is a tough balance.

in the future with multi material printers starting to come out using a soluble nylon support material makes the most sense.

910 seems to suck the heat out of the extruder faster then Bridge.

same glue sticks work great for nylon 910

for americans i got this version of KORES glue
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2401CF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it is pretty much the same as the version sold in the store.
the label is different and it is slighter narrower then the european version but i've had no issues. Clean up is a snap with a wet rag to take the glue off the bed PEI