Notifications
Clear all

Newbie questions after the first week.  

  RSS
Mike
 Mike
(@mike-35)
Eminent Member
Newbie questions after the first week.

I received and assembled my I3 Mk2S kit last week (perfect x-y on the first try, yay! I kind of want to buy another one just to build it) and its been running pretty much constantly. I've been very impressed by what I've been able to do, and how well it responds when I screw something up (usually forgetting supports when I slice and watching as it works anyway). However I have a few questions, in no particular order of importance..

first layer drag: I just read on another post that changed the z-lift start layer from 1 to 0 should help with some of the first layer dragging, Ive changed the setting so hopefully this fixes that.

Nozzle ooze during preheat: as the printer preheats, some of the plastic oozes out of the nozzle, and gets dragged around as it does the 9-point calibration. I've experimented with lowering the nozzle temp 5-10 degrees and it seems to help, does it make sense to set the nozzle to a point just below where it starts oozing? Is there a way to change the preheat defaults for PLA? (I see that there is a extruder calibration in the new firmware, but ran into issues upgrading, see below)

Firmware update: I updated the prusa slicer, which added a gcode to remind me to update the firmware, so I did, using the usb port and prusa supplied updating software. After it said complete i power cycled the printer and all I got was a screen of solid squares, terrified I bricked my printer on the third day, I fired up ponterface and it was still seeing it, so it was somewhat alive. I was able to find the previous version of the FW and successfully downgrade back and its working fine now. But I would still like to upgrade to get current. Has anybody else seen issues like this?

Diagonal banding on solid layers:: When I print larger items with a solid base on the first layer (probably smaller ones too but it might be harder to see) I've noticed that sections of the solid layer appear different from others. It almost looks as though the lines aren't close enough beside the next line, but sometimes it is. I've played around with lowering nozzle temp and that helped some, but its still noticeable. Is this a live z issue? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By62slJU9FmbU0VKaHZ3MzJsUE0/view?usp=sharing

Live z/v2 calib:I have run the v2 calibration file a bunch while moving the live z, but if I'm being honest I cant really see (I think its an eyball not focusing on something that size issue) a huge change (in fact I accidentally over did it and made a small gouge in the bed the first time. I had some success by kneeling so my eye level was completely in line with the bed, I could see the distance between the bed and nozzle closing. Watching the first layer of the prusa logo helps as well but I still feel like I don't have it right.

New filament/different company filament: Is there a best practice for dialing in a new filament roll, above loading into the extruder. I recently bought my second roll from a local retailer and find the properties quite different (initially I thought the quality was a problem but played around with nozzle temp and it made improvements. Does anybody have a procedure that allows them to find the best temperature settings for a new roll. i noticed temp calibration gauges on thingaverse. Of course this may be included in the new firmware which once I sort out the update might answer my question.

I think that's it for now. Thanks for any help.

Posted : 12/06/2017 5:48 pm
Cdanna76
(@cdanna76)
Active Member
Re: Newbie questions after the first week.

Did you ever find answers to your questions.if so can you post them. I've been dealing with similar issues.
Thanks. Chris.

Posted : 18/06/2017 5:13 am
Mike
 Mike
(@mike-35)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Newbie questions after the first week.

Not yet sadly. The firmware issues is rectified now, as I was able to do a successful update a couple days ago. Other than that still experimenting.

Posted : 19/06/2017 7:08 pm
gkol
 gkol
(@gkol)
Trusted Member
Re: Newbie questions after the first week.

About the firmware - are you sure you are flashing correct firmware version for the Rambo version that you have? Maybe you are trying to flash firmware from Rambo 1.0a to Rambo 1.3a?

Posted : 19/06/2017 8:49 pm
steve.t2
(@steve-t2)
New Member
Re: Newbie questions after the first week.

We just got our kit assembled 10 days ago or so. I'd be really interested in some experienced answers myself though I'll share what I've found.

first layer drag not sure what that refers to so I'd have to look that up.

Nozzle ooze during preheat I've seen this too, so much so that it can mess with the calibration before a print. Typically, I've just used a zip tie and scraped it off the nozzle and everything works.

Firmware update Followed the same instructions as you and no issues.

Diagonal banding on solid layers I've seen this too on things like the batman print and I'm not sure what specifically causes it. I've played with live Z as well and have tuned it with my 12 yo who's eyes are better than mine as I can't see the difference until I'm able to peal the plastic off the bed and hold it to a light for comparison.

Live z/v2 calib I moved the nozzle all the way to the left and checked the nozzle level then moved all the way to the right without touching the z axis level and found that our bed wasn't quite square so I followed the directions to loosen the M11 nuts to the frame and made a slight adjustment. That said, I too have the same issue feeling that the z level is what it should be. Be sure to refer to section 6.3.8.9 pict. 8 on how to tune the nozzle height live during the test print.

New filament... No idea.

Posted : 20/06/2017 5:32 am
PJR
 PJR
(@pjr)
Antient Member Moderator
Re: Newbie questions after the first week.

first layer drag not sure what that refers to so I'd have to look that up.

Z-Lift is turned off for at least the first layer. It's easy enough to turn on if this bothers you.

Nozzle ooze during preheat I've seen this too, so much so that it can mess with the calibration before a print. Typically, I've just used a zip tie and scraped it off the nozzle and everything works.

Preheat to 170 degrees before the 9-point calibration and then increase to extrude temp after.

Firmware update Followed the same instructions as you and no issues.

Firmware updater seems to be working OK nowadays, but updates can also be done using the Arduino IDE.

Peter

Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…

Posted : 20/06/2017 10:14 am
Share: