[Closed] Ikea FABRIKÖR Cabernet  

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charlie.g
(@charlie-g)
Eminent Member

Been looking for a Display/Cabernet for my new printer, not keen on anything flammable so looking for glass/metal and have seen this

Any thoughts?

[url][/ http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/storage-furniture/cabinets-sideboards/fabrikör-glass-door-cabinet-dark-grey-art-00242278/url ]

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Posted : 16/07/2017 2:16 pm
kevin.r5
(@kevin-r5)
Estimable Member

Looks nice, but $169 😯

50cm wide and 40cm deep ... it will be a tight squeeze if you get your printer in it.

-Kevin...
Posted : 16/07/2017 5:03 pm
Knickohr
(@knickohr)
Member Moderator

These are the outer diameters. So, inside it is a little bit smaller. I think it is too small 😥

My cabinet has 65x50 inside an is just OK; could be some cm more. If you remove the LCD you can get to 50x50cm.

But, nice housing !

Thomas

Posted : 16/07/2017 6:21 pm
justin.m4
(@justin-m4)
Trusted Member

I am planning on this eventually (maybe). As mentioned the LCD would have to be removed, and the use of a camera attached to the front of the heat bed would take some planning with the door closed.
My idea was to replace the back glass with plastic with the bottom open for easier access and ventilation, but still working on that . The other consideration is that noise will be amplified with a metal cabinet too.
Quite frankly, still have mine on a table and printing merrily along! 😛

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Posted : 16/07/2017 7:04 pm
aaron.s5
(@aaron-s5)
Noble Member



the use of a camera attached to the front of the heat bed would take some planning with the door closed

My machine is in a Lack Stack which is a bit too small. My solution for my camera was to mount it ON THE BACK of the bed. You need room back there anyway for the cables from the extruder and bed, so the camera does not add any depth requirements. But I am constantly viewing the back of the prints, but you can't have everything.

Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage or loss. If you solve your problem, please post the solution…...
Posted : 16/07/2017 8:41 pm
charlie.g
(@charlie-g)
Eminent Member

sounds like it could be too small, the plan was to take the screen off and probably all the other electronics and change the back glass for metal to mount the power supply and Rambo on but sounds like it may not work. I would take a template and test it but unfortunately there nearest ikea is a hour away so may have to wait.

If anyone see's anything larger let me know otherwise I'm going to have to break the welding kit out and make something up witch is going to cost a lot more in materials and time!

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Posted : 17/07/2017 10:36 am
digitalkid56
(@digitalkid56)
Active Member

Old thread.. but I thought I'd update..

So I went ahead and bought it, even tho I knew it probably wouldn't fit.. I double checked with IKEA if I could return it if it didn't, and they said yes.. So I thought why not?

Here it goes.. After assembling the whole thing (minus the top), I tried to squeeze the printer in, and quickly found that I needed to remove the rear glass.. width wise, it just BARELY fits.. with the power cable getting scrunched up, I'll probably order one of those side style power plugs.. but it clears, BARELY. most people won't feel comfortable with such a tight fit, but the bed never moves side to side, and everything appears to be able to function without hitting the sides, so I'm ok with it..

I eyeballed the height, and left room for the new style spindle holder and heigh clearance for the biggest spool that I have, and set the top glass shelf to that height.. Setting the bottom glass on the very bottom slot, I use the bottom 2 shelves for filament storage.. This all fits nicely, the weight of the printer + 2 filament spools doesn't seem to be TOO heavy, and I feel like the glass can hold the weight.. time will tell..

Now the downside of it all.. I've tried this both ways, first.. without the LED control box mounted on the front.. I pushed the bed all the way forward and gave it about a cm of space before hitting the front door (closed), readjusted the feet in the rear of the printer so they make contact with the glass, then slid the bed all the way to the back.. You probably need 2-3 inches more of this cabinet to fit this printer perfectly depth wise.. For me, I'm currently running it without a rear glass, until I can figure out how to make a rear cover that will seal this in.. Like the OP, I like the idea of using a housing that is not flammable and will have a really hard time catching on fire, worst case scenario.. so I'm brainstorming ways I can make a rear housing to fully enclose the printer and get a controlled temp environment.. But for now, 3 of 4 sides might help me achieve just enough temp stability to print my PETG's ok.. I don't use ABS, so I'm not too concerned with filtering out fumes.. Second attempt, I mounted the LED panel back on for a test fit.. I noticed It doesn't stick that much further out than the bed moved all the way forward, so I just left it on..

I think I might keep this case, at least use it for a couple weeks just to see how it goes.. I wired up some $20 IKEA LED lights and tucked the wire away in the back.. one strip on each side (left/right), one strip on the top, and one strip to illuminate the bottom shelf.. All in all, it came out pretty nice looking, considering about 2-3 inches of the MK3's ass is hanging out the back with the cables..

Hope this helps anyone who is tinkering with the idea of using the "Fabrikör" from IKEA.

Posted : 17/06/2018 7:01 am
digitalkid56
(@digitalkid56)
Active Member

Forgot to include a picture of the back.. I took a video, but couldn't upload it here..

Posted : 17/06/2018 7:10 am
amanda.l4
(@amanda-l4)
New Member


Old thread.. but I thought I'd update..

So I went ahead and bought it, even tho I knew it probably wouldn't fit.. I double checked with IKEA if I could return it if it didn't, and they said yes.. So I thought why not?

Here it goes.. After assembling the whole thing (minus the top), I tried to squeeze the printer in, and quickly found that I needed to remove the rear glass.. width wise, it just BARELY fits.. with the power cable getting scrunched up, I'll probably order one of those side style power plugs.. but it clears, BARELY. most people won't feel comfortable with such a tight fit, but the bed never moves side to side, and everything appears to be able to function without hitting the sides, so I'm ok with it..

I eyeballed the height, and left room for the new style spindle holder and heigh clearance for the biggest spool that I have, and set the top glass shelf to that height.. Setting the bottom glass on the very bottom slot, I use the bottom 2 shelves for filament storage.. This all fits nicely, the weight of the printer + 2 filament spools doesn't seem to be TOO heavy, and I feel like the glass can hold the weight.. time will tell..

Now the downside of it all.. I've tried this both ways, first.. without the LED control box mounted on the front.. I pushed the bed all the way forward and gave it about a cm of space before hitting the front door (closed), readjusted the feet in the rear of the printer so they make contact with the glass, then slid the bed all the way to the back.. You probably need 2-3 inches more of this cabinet to fit this printer perfectly depth wise.. For me, I'm currently running it without a rear glass, until I can figure out how to make a rear cover that will seal this in.. Like the OP, I like the idea of using a housing that is not flammable and will have a really hard time catching on fire, worst case scenario.. so I'm brainstorming ways I can make a rear housing to fully enclose the printer and get a controlled temp environment.. But for now, 3 of 4 sides might help me achieve just enough temp stability to print my PETG's ok.. I don't use ABS, so I'm not too concerned with filtering out fumes.. Second attempt, I mounted the LED panel back on for a test fit.. I noticed It doesn't stick that much further out than the bed moved all the way forward, so I just left it on..

I think I might keep this case, at least use it for a couple weeks just to see how it goes.. I wired up some $20 IKEA LED lights and tucked the wire away in the back.. one strip on each side (left/right), one strip on the top, and one strip to illuminate the bottom shelf.. All in all, it came out pretty nice looking, considering about 2-3 inches of the MK3's ass is hanging out the back with the cables..

Hope this helps anyone who is tinkering with the idea of using the "Fabrikör" from IKEA.

How has the Fabrikor held up as an enclosure? Is the glass shelf sturdy enough or does it vibrate during prints?

Posted : 04/12/2018 10:06 am
digitalkid56
(@digitalkid56)
Active Member


How has the Fabrikor held up as an enclosure? Is the glass shelf sturdy enough or does it vibrate during prints?

It's been pretty good other than being a really tight fit, no real options for cameras or anything else.. It vibrates a little, but not so much that it really affects anything.. I was trying to come up with something that could enclose the back so I could actually control the temp, but haven't gotten around to it as majority of the prints have been coming out ok

Posted : 27/01/2019 1:10 am
pascal.l4
(@pascal-l4)
Eminent Member

I'm trying to fit a Prusa Mini in the same cabinet:

https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles/fabrikor-enclosure-for-prusa-mini/

The back glass is kept, but running the power cord out is a challenge with the bottom plate.

Posted : 13/04/2020 11:19 pm
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