Prusa PETG vs the rest
Still new to printing on a really good printer and, having had really great results so far looking to try other materials. All the PLA prints (including my not Prusa sliced) have worked well on the stock PLA settings.
I've read a lot about PETG being good but with a fair bit of dialing in to get good results. Is this also the case if I stick with Prusa supplies? I'm guessing their filament is tweaked to suit their kit.
I used to hate PETG. Sometimes I was forced to use it because I needed something more heat resistant than PLA but didn’t want to deal with all the issues ABS has. But on my other printers PETG produced boatloads of stringing and random blobs all over the place, despite hours of trying to dial them in.
Fast forward to my new Mk3S. First print with Amazon Basics PETG using the stock Generic PETG Profile in Prusa Slicer — sheer awesomeness! I mean, just perfect. Since then I’ve kept printing a lot in PETG just for the fun of it because it comes out so great. Ive tried a couple of other brands, very similar story.
i guess the TL;DR version of this is, maybe I just got really lucky but I don’t think the brand of PETG matters much as long as it’s reasonably reputable.
Thanks. That will broaden my colour choices a great deal.
I've yet to get a good PETG print with my Mk3. I've tried everything (I think). Blobs, crashes, stringy messes, lifted prints, new heatblocks, nozzles, calibrate, re-calibrate, perfect first layers, a dozen different brands of PETG. Fuggetaboutit!!!
Prints PLA just fine.
I don't bother with this POS Mk3 with PETG, My Mk2.5 does a beautiful job.
Thanks but that looks to be from the USA and not available over here in the UK. When I looked at the total price it was a little undert $70 US a spool. I will await Joseph's and see how it goes before branching out.
You can use any filament. I can recommend to try any which has a good availability in your area. I'm pretty sure you can find something which performs similar or better then the limited (and for you very expensive) Prusa filament.
I have been using PETG for many reels now. at first i could not get any thing to stick well.
been reading that PETG sticks TOO well i could not work it out, That all changed when Covid 19 came along, was forced to get it right, which was simply changing the Z height.
I actually found it better than PLA some how it all seemed smoother on the printer.
Cant really comment on Prusa PETG, i have been using Sunlu and YS from ebay at a fair price of less than £20
For me on my MK3S I like 250 and 85 for the bed, recently i have been using a textured plate, same story could not get it to stick.
I later found out that the new plate was much thinner than the smooth, once i got it set on the Z it was all very smooth and easy.
have been playing with the bed compensation, after some time of setting it up right, the first layer was just smooth and perfect, much better than i got from PLA
So yes i love petg, yet to try ABS
I have three printers and none of them adhere the same.
yes that is the same, may be worse for me as i have 4 different printers and 3 plates for the Prusa 2 smooth and 1 textured.
thankfully i can use different profiles for each sheet, just love that
1 PLA 1 smooth PETG and text for PETG
Which printers do you have?
my first was a creality CR10S then the Mk3s then a ender 3 and finally a A8 clone that is total crap.
i had a ender 3 pro for a few weeks, did not think it was any better than the standard 3, not worth the extra cash
My ender 3 and CR10s has a Titan heads as i like direct drive, the ender is very good at PETG which i would have thought it would struggle with it.
the only thing is the hot end only goes to 260, a bit close for petg and ABS
i have only tried once with ABS on the CR10S did not go very well at all warped and smelt bad so i think i will stay on petg
I am having the damndest time getting the ender to print. I think I got a lemon. n
I find that hard too understand, i have recommended the Ender to people who dont know much about printing, and have got great results
I must say the main fault, to me is the bed. If you dont get it right you can be all over the place.
The level was a right pain i put Cr 10 s springs on the bed, that made it more solid.
could it be the bowden tube? I could not get on with that for the type of printing i was doing.
i have been printing R/C model planes of 3D print labs such as the Mig 15 and Spitfire
I had under extrusion issues for months. Replaced the hot end. Reoccurred. I replaced to the silent motherboard. In 14 months, I have not been able to get it to work reliably. It is almost a completely replaced printed. I am contemplating donating it to a school.
I have 2 anycubics, 4 MK3S, a Mini, and CR-10S Pro and all work well.
The ender as I said - no so much.