Prints wont stick to front right corner only  

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BootsInShoes
(@bootsinshoes)
New Member

I've been troubleshooting an issue where prints will not stick to the front right corner of the print bed. I've tried with my

Smooth PEI

-clean, Alcohol wiped, Acetone wiped, and glue stick. 

Textured Powder Coated

-clean, Alcohol wiped

I"ve tried PLA and PETG from different venders. I used different temps to see if that helps. No matter what, larger prints that reach over to the front right corner all start to lift. If I keep the entire print on the left or back side of the print bed, I have no issues.

I have re-calibrated the bed level and made sure nothing came loose, but everything seems square and flat. I've adjusted the bed level up and down with no luck. I'm at a loss as to why just the front left corner doesnt stick to anything no matter the print bed, filament even though the bed is flat as it can be with the way prusa mounts the heat bed.

I have my printer away from my window and any vents. I also turn off the fans when a print is going.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I've been trying to do a print that uses the entire print bed and this is holding me back.

Posted : 30/11/2019 11:36 pm
Rams
 rams
(@rams)
Active Member

Have you tried moving the Z axis all the way up to the top? That basically resets the 2 steppers to the same height.

MK3
2500h...
Posted : 01/12/2019 11:30 am
Anachronist
(@anachronist)
Eminent Member

The powder-coat sheet is notorious for not sticking well to PLA. It has some manufacturing residue that alcohol won't remove. You need to wash it with dish soap and warm water and a sponge, rinse until no water sticks to it, dry with clean towels without your hands touching, then retry the print.

Also in your printer, try the 7x7 bed leveling instead of 3x3. It takes only 20-30 more seconds to do the 7x7 leveling. It's under settings > mesh bed leveling > mesh. You just need to set it once and forget it.

Posted : 06/12/2019 7:21 am
Tim
(@tim-m30)
Illustrious Member

Wash and dry with only fresh new plain paper towels; no scents, no dust trappers, and no dish sponges (unless certified new and it contains no lotions - Scotch-Brite dish pads seem to be okay as long as they aren't the abrasive ones - even then I'd suggest against it).

 

The trick is wash at a sink with hot water, a few drops of Dawn or Fairy dish soap (try to use ones without scents, anti-bacteria, or hand conditioners).  Hot water rinse until the water beads and sheets off (takes several minutes with very hot water).  Then dry with fresh paper towels, then bake on the heat bed for at least 30 minutes at 80c to dry the sputtered material.

And remember - one finger print can ruin a 48 hour print.

 

It is always wise to get more than one opinion......
Posted : 06/12/2019 8:05 am
Rams
 rams
(@rams)
Active Member

For cleaning the bed I use Avery Surface Cleaner. This is used in tbe car wrapping industry. Spray, clean, done. This never failed me.

MK3
2500h...
Posted : 06/12/2019 9:15 am
steven.p8
(@steven-p8)
Estimable Member

Obviously, getting the bed clean is the most important thing.

I also have issues with large prints lifting in the corners of the bed.  I suspect that the corners have a slightly lower temperature due to more exposed surfaces that can lose heat.  Increasing the bed temperature 5-10 degrees might help.  Not sure if this may cause other issues near the middle of the print.

Another issue see is that sharp corners have a greater tendency to lift than rounded corners.  A 15cm square box will usually have 1 or 2 corners that lift, while a 15cm cylinder will stay perfectly flat.  It helps a lot if you can fillet the corners of your object. 

Steve

Posted : 06/12/2019 9:14 pm
Tim
(@tim-m30)
Illustrious Member

Many use coupons (manual brims) at corners.  I also raise bed temp to 70c when I am printing large items I suspect might warp, and I've also found slowing the print fan can help some parts but is asking for other issues.  Not much you can do for plastic that wants to warp except start using an enclosure to keep the part cooling more slowly.  But enclosures with PLA is a double edged sword that is sharper on the side pointed at you.

 

ps: and someone once said printing a full height skirt can help with warp.  I haven't tried that method, but it sounds feasible.

This post was modified 1 month ago 2 times by Tim
It is always wise to get more than one opinion......
Posted : 07/12/2019 2:14 am
Robert-mm200
(@robert-rmm200)
Prominent Member

I am also a fan of mouse ears (google it) at sharp corners. If you have a large part that tends to warp, it really helps tack them down.

Among other things, the object can not draw heat away from the heated bed at the mouse ear.

Posted : 07/12/2019 5:14 pm
BootsInShoes
(@bootsinshoes)
New Member

Here's the print I've been trying. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3851805

It basically fills the entire print area. There's not a whole lot of area for skits for brims. I'm probably going to try enclosing the printer and see if that helps keep the temps more stable. Maybe the sheer size of the print is soaking up a lot of heat in the corners and causing the warping.

Posted : 08/12/2019 6:32 am
Robert-mm200
(@robert-rmm200)
Prominent Member

That is one beautiful subwoofer...

Prusa slicer finds a couple of errors in the model. 3D Builder fixes those. 500 grams of filament; $12 per half.

There is a remix of the object that splits the model into two parts. You might have better luck with that one. And a Fail does not cost as much...

My biggest problem was Prusa Slicer runs out of storage - or simply crashes - during slicing. One that succeeded shows 47 hours print time - for one half.

Posted : 08/12/2019 8:12 pm
BootsInShoes
(@bootsinshoes)
New Member

@robert-rmm200

Mine showed now errors, and I never have had issues with Prusa Slicer running out of memory. How much ram do you have? My laptop took a few seconds to slice this model, but it did it with zero errors and no other notifications 🙃 

Posted : 08/12/2019 9:30 pm
Robert-mm200
(@robert-rmm200)
Prominent Member

32 GB. And Prusa Slicer shows no repairs in lower right? Mine did... I think 4 repairs.

Good luck on your print! That is a hard one just due to time.

Posted : 08/12/2019 9:37 pm
frank.d5
(@frank-d5)
Active Member

For better smooth PEI sheet adhesion, I ‘polished’ the surface with steel wool. Cleans and structures the surface. Works like a charm. Maybe even in your odd corner. 

Posted : 11/12/2019 5:59 pm
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