Print Lift
Hi all!
I am having some trouble with adhesion to the print bed. The extruder would pick up the print from the bed. The spool is fresh.
I tried cleaning the bed, lowering the speed and bed temp, and adjusting the live Z. No avail. The first layer also bubbles and strings.
It could be that the room that the printer is in is somewhat cold...
I was having top layer problems before this whole problem began. the top layer would not blend at all. it would be very rough and you finger would get stuck on it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
NOTE I am not very knowledgeable in the settings side of Prusa Slicer
RE: Print Lift
This is a common challenge for new users. Here's an info dump that should help you get started...
-
A dirty PEI print surface. Even if you don't think this is the cause, it's always a good idea to make sure your PEI surface is clean before trying any other fixes. If it's a smooth PEI sheet, take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails , and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite pad or equivalent on smooth PEI to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently. If you've got a textured powder-coated PEI print surface, the official instructions are to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol on it only. Rumors persist that some tribes deep in the jungle have had good luck getting started with these sheets by giving them a wipe with 100% acetone and a dunk with Dawn. Either way, there's no real warranty on these sheets. YMMV.
-
If you have not already done so, try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the on-board routine and much easier to make mid-print adjustments accurately with. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines on the PEI surface without dislodging them. Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers. You should not be able to peel the lines apart after printing, but the top should be regular.
RE: Print Lift
@bobstro
Ok I'll try that. Does the temp of the room effect the print at all?
RE: Print Lift
It can, especial if the cooler air tends to pass over the bed as your printing.
The Filament Whisperer
RE: Print Lift
@libertymachine
Ambient doesn't generally affect adhesion. Ambient air does affect upper layers, and can cause the part to warp : basically the top of the part cools and contracts while bottom is still warm and pliable. This is why enclosures can be useful, especially for higher temp plastics like ABS/ABS and PC.
RE: Print Lift
Ok Thanks.