Print giving me trouble - seeking advice  

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VTcivil99
(@vtcivil99)
New Member

I have designed a custom mount for a fuel injection touchscreen interface for my friend's vehicle project.    The model was created in autocad and I can share the DWG, STL, etc.

1st issue:   In this particular model printing in PLA with default Prusa Slicer settings i keep getting the corners lifting up.    It's PLA so I didn't really expect that to happen.   I've cleaned the bed with 99.9% alcohol wipes, also tried soap and water as well (which seemed to help).    The print I did last night (where i did some adjusted settings) was the best but all the corners still lifted a little bit.   I ran the printer at 90% speed and had fan off for first 3 layers instead of 1.   

2nd issue: at the interface between the big flat bottom and where the model then goes to just vertical walls, I get an artifact of a line around the outside perimeter.  Enough you can easily catch your fingernail on it when you scrape across it.  It just doesn't look as clean as I think it should.   I changed the vertical shell thicknesses so the walls have no infill to see if that helped and it didn't.

The print as it's shown in the pictures is certainly good enough, but I want to try my best to make the best product.
Using Prusa MK3S and Prusa Galaxy Black.

Files are in this google drive link:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JgptSiPOvd3j6YyIPDsiZWTvSQUT2xLP?usp=sharing

 

 

 

This topic was modified 1 month ago 2 times by VTcivil99
Posted : 21/01/2021 3:05 pm
fuchsr
(@fuchsr)
Reputable Member

For your second issue, see this (18 page!) thread: https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/buldge-when-print-reaches-solid-layers/

It's a well known issue. The thread has some ideas, none really solved the problem for me.

 

For your first issue, again it's a phenomenon common to large rectangular prints but your model doesn't seem large enough to see it. Sure, cleaning the bed helps. I think you have the design; making the corners round instead of pointed can make a big difference. I would also try a brim around the model, or put removable "mouse ears" on the corners to keep them down.

Posted : 21/01/2021 9:14 pm
VTcivil99
(@vtcivil99)
New Member

@fuchsr

Wow.  For the 2nd problem at least I now know it wasn't something I overlooked.   I read the first 3 pages and will need to read the rest later.

For the 1st problem, I'll try a brim or mouse ears as suggested.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Posted : 21/01/2021 10:07 pm
VTcivil99
(@vtcivil99)
New Member

@fuchsr

Wow.  For the 2nd problem at least I now know it wasn't something I overlooked.   I read the first 3 pages and will need to read the rest later.

For the 1st problem, I'll try a brim or mouse ears as suggested.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Posted : 21/01/2021 10:10 pm
egar
 egar
(@egar)
Trusted Member

@vtcivil99

I have similar problems with PLA prints about the same size (and larger) as yours.  Like you, I've scrubbed the build plate with soap and water, used a Scotch Bright pad with soap and water, and used 99% IPA.  I still have the curling problem at corners as the filament cools.  The first few millimeters go down fine, but the curling starts after I get above 10 mm or so.  Brims have not helped either, the print pulls away from the brim, leaving the brim stuck to the build plate just fine.  I've only used the Prusa PLA that came with the printer, so I don't know if it unique to that filament or if I'd have problems with all PLAs.

I used PETG very early on in my printing journey and found I really enjoyed printing with that filament better.  I've never had an adhesion issue with PETG and find that it also shrinks less during cooling than PLA.

I know that didn't help solve your problem, but as the saying goes, "misery loves company". 😉

This post was modified 1 month ago 2 times by egar
Posted : 21/01/2021 10:19 pm
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member

There seem to be 2 seasons as far as our Prusa printers go:

  • In summer, we have heat creep and jamming issues related to heat.
  • In winter, we have adhesion problems due to temperature fluctuations.

I've noticed a spike in posts on each topic for a few years. The info above is all good, but I wanted to add a couple of additional thoughts...

If you're printing big things in rooms that are cool, you can try to minimize the temperature changes. I found putting my printer in a rack closed on 3 sides helped cut down problems caused by cold drafts.

  • Some people use a photographic tent or other lightweight enclosure. You don't need a full permanent enclosure.
  • Warming my printer up fully at the start of a print helped overall quality.
  • You might use bed temperatures at the lower end of the range to reduce (slightly) the temperature difference between the lower and upper part of your prints.

I find the mouse ears particularly useful when a brim is not practical. 30mm seems to be a good size for holding down larger corners.

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan...
Posted : 21/01/2021 11:01 pm
Swiss_Cheese
(@swiss_cheese)
Reputable Member

please Post your project file as a .3MF we can look at your setting and potentially offer some help, you will need to zip the file up before the forums will allow you to post it. I have autocadd but the .3mf will have all the info I need with model included.

Posted : 21/01/2021 11:24 pm
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