Help with Printing ABS  

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john.w50
(@john-w50)
New Member

I am new to 3d printing and need some help on how to fix my settings to get better results with my abs. I am printing with generic abs settings on slic3r with hatchbox white filament. The standard temps are 255 For the extruder and 100 for the bed, and the printer is in a full enclosure. Here is a 3dBenchy I printed. Thanks

Posted : 18/07/2018 11:26 pm
Martin Wolfe
(@martin-wolfe)
Reputable Member

That looks as if your cooling is wrong. Try a 10% print fan setting. Those overhangs on the benchy need the part fan running to work.

Regards,
Martin

Martin Wolfe...
Posted : 19/07/2018 12:19 am
Olef
 olef
(@olef)
Honorable Member

Same applies with the chimney. Needs cooling.

Posted : 19/07/2018 8:33 am
devdoc
(@devdoc)
Estimable Member


I am new to 3d printing and need some help on how to fix my settings to get better results with my abs. I am printing with generic abs settings on slic3r with hatchbox white filament. The standard temps are 255 For the extruder and 100 for the bed, and the printer is in a full enclosure. Here is a 3dBenchy I printed. Thanks

Is that what hatchbox recommends for temps? Seems a bit hot. The filementum ABS works well for me using inland ABS which is also a reasonably priced ABS filament. I usually wind up printing in the middle of the manufacturer recommended temp ranges.

...
Posted : 19/07/2018 5:51 pm
ryan.k17
(@ryan-k17)
Active Member

I have problems with edges curling up.  I use Hatchbox ABS at 230 extruder and the bed is at 100 for first layer then up to 110.  It is in an enclosure and the fan is left at Generic ABS deaults:  15% min and max speeds.  any ideas on how to eliminate the curling edges?

Posted : 27/10/2020 5:13 pm
jsw
 jsw
(@jsw)
Noble Member

One product that I've found that works very well with ABS is the Layerneer Bed Weld.  For ABS, I use it mostly as a release agent, as, if anything, I find that ABS sticks a bit too well.  I do use it to prevent curling and warping with PLA by putting a dab on where the corners of large flat pieces will print.  I'm quite sure it would help with the curling with ABS.  Plain old glue stick would probably help as well.

IIRC, The Prusa default temp for the Hatchbox preset is 255 on the nozzle both for first and subsequent layers.  I've done countless Hatchbox ABS prints with these settings and find them to work just fine.

 

This post was modified 1 month ago by jsw
Posted : 27/10/2020 8:32 pm
Peter M
(@peter-m-3)
Prominent Member

Clean bed with dish soap and first layer needs to be 100%, then sticking is the best.

Use glue. Especially for big flat models.(or very small)

First layer hotter and slower.

Use a big brim attache to model 6 or 8 lines.

Heat up the enclosure before you start, and let print cool down slowly.

You can try to print less hot or hotter.

Every (cold) wind is bad.

Posted : 29/10/2020 11:47 am
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 -2
(@-2)
Illustrious Member

I am beginning to think jsw is a glue sales rep... lol. He pitches that stuff in nearly every post.

@ryan-k17

Which print sheet are you using - smooth or textured?  And is the 'curl' happening on the first layer or subsequent layers?  A photo will help identify the likely cause.  Warp is one issue, and simple lack of adhesion is a separate issue, sometimes related. Warp can be caused by many things, fan speeds, ambient temps, layer cooling times, to name a few. Layer 1 adhesion, where filament isn't sticking can be bed cleanliness - fingerprints and oils are generally bad for any filament, temperature choices, and the fact some filament needs help. For some ABS filaments, Prusa includes a gluestick which can sometimes help tack a part down. There are other types of bed treatments, MagiGoo ABS, ABS Goop this, that. Plus the stuff jsw hawks (though it says it's for glass beds, not PEI, so I'd worry about compatibility with PEI. And home made ABS slurry folk call ABS Juice: mix a little ABS filament with acetone, paint it on the bed. Not great for PEI - too much acetone degrades the PEI. 

Prusa has a faq: not much help but lays out some basics.

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/abs_2058

 

It is always wise to get more than one opinion... as for trusting Prusa? No way man....
Posted : 29/10/2020 1:01 pm
ryan.k17
(@ryan-k17)
Active Member

Thanks for all the feedback.  I am using a textured sheet, and I will try glue next time.

I had some success on my own before receiving feedback and this is what worked:  I found that the default bed temp of 110 was too high.  the part was staying soft and; therefore, I think, was allowing it to lift at the corners.  I lowered the bed to 100 and that help the part cool/harden as it was building, but not too much.  The settings that worked for me with Hatchbox ABS are:

Extruder: 230 first layer and 230 other layers

Bed: 100 degrees fist and other layers.  95 degrees seemed ok too.

Fan: 15% min and max

In an enclosure with a textured sheet.

 

Posted : 29/10/2020 1:28 pm
-- liked
jsw
 jsw
(@jsw)
Noble Member

I'm not selling anything, Tim.  I'm simply sharing something that I use that works with others who may have difficulty.

I know that you do not approve of many of the ways I do things, and I'm not seeking your approval.  The fact is that I am no beginner and I have very few failed prints, so I must be doing something right.

I don't think the one-size-fits-all 'clean the plate and clean it my way' is the universal correct answer to any and all reports of difficulty getting something to stick and to hold to the plate.  There are too many other factors involved.  I believe that the majority of the users are adults, and know when something is or is not clean. Different users have different methods which work for them, and they need to learn from others and from experience what will work best for them. 

Somebody said that it is always wise to get more than one opinion.  Please consider this the opinion that your way (nor mine) is not the best for everyone.

This post was modified 1 month ago by jsw
Posted : 29/10/2020 1:31 pm
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 -2
(@-2)
Illustrious Member

@ryan-k17

Good to hear. When ABS warps, it is difficult to keep the part attached. I've heard of cases where the spring steel sheet bent along with the part - imagine the part overcoming the magnetic forces holding the plate down... lol. When those sorts of things are happening, managing temperatures are about the only thing you can do. 

It is always wise to get more than one opinion... as for trusting Prusa? No way man....
Posted : 29/10/2020 1:55 pm
Swiss_Cheese
(@swiss_cheese)
Estimable Member

@tim-m30

I am beginning to think jsw is a glue sales rep... lol. He pitches that stuff in nearly every post.

I was starting to think the same thing  : )

I was expecting him to change his Handle to LBW and post a picture of it in his Icon slot.

 

P.S. I'm only teasing jsw

 

I do think it's fair to note that their are other alternatives that work quit well for far less $$$ glue stick for example

This post was modified 4 weeks ago by Swiss_Cheese
Posted : 01/11/2020 1:46 am
karl-herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Famed Member

We just had an exchange in the German speaking forum regarding sense and nonsense of the use of various glues.
I think that there are really many factors that play a role and that the use of glues can be useful in individual cases.
I myself use glue or Kapton for printing nylon and PEEK, but not for other materials.
In this sense everyone is right, as long as it works.

 
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen....
Posted : 01/11/2020 2:20 am
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