First layer calibration with materials different than PLA (newbe question)
Is there a way do do the first layer calibration with material other than PLA?
I am using PETG most of the time and now I first calibrate with PLA and then add an offset of 0,03mm.
Calibrating directly with PETG would be much easier.
I've got notes and sample STLs here, plus pre-generated gcode for a couple of filament types. I basically replicate Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure with STLs for different filament types and nozzle sizes.
Thanks for the link... I will try with your files.
You have an extremely interesting blog. I went through it very quickly but I saw very interesting topics. 🙂
Will read the articles tonight 🙂
[...] You have an extremely interesting blog. I went through it very quickly but I saw very interesting topics. 🙂
I hope it's useful. I try to dump anything I figure out into my notes for future reference. My future self will be glad I did! Thanks for the kind comments.
i have same issue as a newbie maybe my newbie ts steps can provide different perspective
read many forum post and youtube etc also contact support chat 2 times
1 kilo gray pla finished in a few days but i purchased petg with powder coated sheet and troubles started
First day prints are great for a newbie
when my pla finished everything goes wrong
Thank to support i have some progress for z calibration
my z offset is -1600 now (PINDA checked)
but still need development for sticking (no sticking)
is there any help will be great
now i try to use https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/ Jeff Jordan's calibration surfaces at -1595
what i learn from this even -1 means a lot in 3d printing world
ı have no idea what should i do now, lets low z then try again 😀 😀
Lines are not sticking together, normally you need to go lower.
1. Clean bed with dish soap, use a lot of hot water, do this several times.
2. First layer calibration must be 100%, on powder coated bed I would go a little lower compared to the pei sheet.
(Your -1600, from what I read in the forum is the maximum, I would adjust the pinda sensor, so the number is lower.)
First layer, search youtube for examples.
Personally wen I loose a good first layer, i do this:
Print a few cubes so you can play with the first layer setting,
start at a to high position and lower this in little steps, then you see the good setting.
It could be the filament, try different brand.
It could be partial clog.
If you switch between pla petg or other filament, clean bed with dish soap.
I had a lot of trouble with the powder coated sheet at first. I bought some 99% IPA and cleaned with that. That, plus the correct zOffset made the difference.
Hello again, thanks for your help and experienced information
this is my 8th day on 3d printer life 3 days for creating minis with gray pla other 4 days for learning z layer calibration but i understand the physics, chemistry and most importantly patience.
Checking PINDA then very bravely lower the z offset and suddenly found stickiness somewhere at -1800, seems very low but i understand that every Prusa have different z offset also every sheet and material add another variable
powder coated (called also textured) is much thiner the the PEI one so the extruder must be posittioned lower.
With edvantage you can use the "sheets" you have 8 of them for disposal. Select sheet and calibrate it eg. for PEI and PLA (you can rename it lika PE_PLA for better distinction ), the next for PEI and PETG , next for Textured and PLA etc. so you can have 8 precalibrated options, then for specific prnt just use the correct one.
Standard I3 mk3s, FW 3.10.0 RC2, no closed box, sketchup , fusion 360, PrusaSlicer, Windows 10
PRUSA MINI FW 4.3.2-rc1 technical background...
yeah I have found I have to have multiple profiles like Spla(smooth for PLA), Spetg(smooth for PETG), Ttpu(Textured for TPU filament) etc. Even with these I still have to do slight adjustment sometimes if switching between vendors. For instance, Sainsmart TPU and Ninjaflex require a few clicks difference in zOffset for me. The Sheet profile gets me close and then I just tweak at the start of the print. I wish there were more slots for sheet profiles, but the sheet profiles themselves are a huge benefit over no profiles at all.