MK3S PINDA exturder melting, anyone knows a way to support it?
 

MK3S PINDA exturder melting, anyone knows a way to support it?  

  RSS
printingrookie
(@printingrookie)
Eminent Member

 

 

 

You can see in the circled area where the PINDA probe holder has disconnected from the body and starting to melt further. I'm using it for PLA only with less than 100 hours of printing so far. Quite disappointing really.

 

I know that they released an enhanced model, but I don't have the material required to print with it now.

 

So until then, I'd like to know how to patch-fix it for now. Has anyone tried supporting it in a way outlined in green? I was thinking of gluing some  metal piece of a rigid plastic from the Fan to the PINDA holder. Would that work?

This topic was modified 11 months ago by printingrookie
Posted : 13/10/2019 3:50 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

I printed a back up out of PETG with CF and Nylon and CF.  The PETG with CF is holding up.  Yet to the test the other.  

Posted : 13/10/2019 4:06 pm
Robert-mm200
(@robert-rmm200)
Noble Member

You also don't mention if you are using an enclosure.

If you do - run with the doors open.

Posted : 13/10/2019 7:22 pm
printingrookie
(@printingrookie)
Eminent Member
Posted by: @robert-rmm200

You also don't mention if you are using an enclosure.

If you do - run with the doors open.

no enclosure 

Damage has already been done. So I wanted to know if anyone came up with a creative temporary solution. 

Posted : 13/10/2019 7:24 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

I continue end to print with mine till it effected Pinda measurements.  

Posted : 13/10/2019 7:40 pm
printingrookie
(@printingrookie)
Eminent Member
Posted by: @charles-h13

I continue end to print with mine till it effected Pinda measurements.  

Thanks for replying but I don’t see how this helps my question. 

Posted : 13/10/2019 7:41 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

Think about ordering one of these to replace it:  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Prusa-MK3s-Fan-Shroud-Replacement-Printed-with-NylonX-FREE-S-H/303270909619?hash=item469c5ad6b3:g:Te4AAOSwzhxdcmQH

Posted : 13/10/2019 7:50 pm
christoph.e5
(@christoph-e5)
Trusted Member

I think there is a reinforced part numbered R5 to print yourself but I do think I've read in the past of someone with the same issue who contacted prusa and they offered to supply him with the part. Charles hint is the better solution as the "reinforced" R5 part still is PETG only with a longer life expectancy...

This post was modified 11 months ago by christoph.e5
Posted : 13/10/2019 9:27 pm
jmone
(@jmone)
Reputable Member

I also reprinted mine in ePA-CF (Nylon CF) and they are great.  I'd order the one that Charles-h13 linked.

Posted : 13/10/2019 9:33 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

I have no association with the guy. I bought one, but I printed a back up.  

Posted : 13/10/2019 9:56 pm
mtnmage
(@mtnmage)
Active Member

If it's a stock or bought part, it's probably a C1.  There is an upgrade, R5, for both the probe and the fan cover.  Try to stabilize it enough to print them in PETG.  This happened to me with the stock parts shortly after I first put my printer together.  If you are a R5... ya got me....

Posted : 16/10/2019 7:05 am
manelto
(@manelto)
Estimable Member
Posted by: @charles-h13

I printed a back up out of PETG with CF and Nylon and CF.  The PETG with CF is holding up.  Yet to the test the other.  

I have those two filaments (petg + CF and Nylon +CF). But I can't print correctly the Nylon+CF (eSun ePA-CF). The PetG+CF is good enough? My extruder melting too 😪 

my petg+CF: https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/carbonfil-black-158?category=157

my Nylon+CF: https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Epa-CF-Filament-Printers/dp/B071NN1NYZ

 

Sorry for my poor English. I try to do my best....
Posted : 16/10/2019 8:35 am
christoph.e5
(@christoph-e5)
Trusted Member

The PETG will be good enough for a lot of prints - but will eventually sag again in the future. You will be able to print the parts in PC with the PETG parts (probably killing the petg parts in the process as you will need an enclosure for the pc parts). 

Ordering the PC printed parts will be the easiest option with least risk ans hassle. If you print petg parts just to be able to print pc parts you might switch to a diferrent - more servicable extruder design with better air plenum in the process...

Posted : 16/10/2019 8:55 am
jmone
(@jmone)
Reputable Member

My eSun ePA-CF is fantastic to print with.  I'd go so far to say after almost finishing my first role it is among the easier filaments to print with.... but, my setup includes:

- 1% RH Storage Cabinet where I keep all my filament

- Print from a Heated Dehydrator running at 70c

- Use a TC Nozzle

- 260c Nozzle / 90c Bed Temp / Extrusion Multiplier @ 96-98%

= Prints that are strong, tough, heat resistant, dimensional accurate, and look good (zero stringing as well).

Note: When I first tried to print this filament just out of the packet (and before the Dry Cabinet & Heated Print Box), it was terrible, just a spongy mess that you could pull apart with your hands.  This stuff MUST BE BONE DRY.  I also have a spool of the eSun ePA-GF (Glass Fibre) coming next week that I'm keen to see how it goes.

I'm replacing all the heat sensitive parts on my Prusa - latest is the PETG Head Bed cover that had deformed - https://www.thingiverse.com/make:719358   Next up is my PSU Holder.

Thanks

Nathan

PS - If anyone is really stuck and desperate I could print some parts I guess (PM Me), but I'm in Australia.  

This post was modified 11 months ago 3 times by jmone
Posted : 25/10/2019 7:31 am
manelto
(@manelto)
Estimable Member
Posted by: @jmone

My eSun ePA-CF is fantastic to print with.  I'd go so far to say after almost finishing my first role it is among the easier filaments to print with.... but, my setup includes:

- 1% RH Storage Cabinet where I keep all my filament

- Print from a Heated Dehydrator running at 70c

- Use a TC Nozzle

- 260c Nozzle / 90c Bed Temp / Extrusion Multiplier @ 96-98%

= Prints that are strong, tough, heat resistant, dimensional accurate, and look good (zero stringing as well).

Note: When I first tried to print this filament just out of the packet (and before the Dry Cabinet & Heated Print Box), it was terrible, just a spongy mess that you could pull apart with your hands.  This stuff MUST BE BONE DRY.  I also have a spool of the eSun ePA-GF (Glass Fibre) coming next week that I'm keen to see how it goes.

I'm replacing all the heat sensitive parts on my Prusa - latest is the PETG Head Bed cover that had deformed - https://www.thingiverse.com/make:719358   Next up is my PSU Holder.

Thanks

Nathan

PS - If anyone is really stuck and desperate I could print some parts I guess (PM Me), but I'm in Australia.  

Now I have much better impressions with eSUN ePA CF. I bought an eSun ebox and changed the filament configuration: bed temperature 85º, Noozle 245º and extrusion multiplier 1.

I will try to increase the temperature a little and lower the extrusion multiplier to 95-98%

 
Sorry for my poor English. I try to do my best....
Posted : 25/10/2019 9:56 am
jmone
(@jmone)
Reputable Member

You will need 260c on a TC or Brass (it will erode Brass) nozzle and even higher on a Hardened nozzle.  245c is too cool.  Here is a pic of a ePA CF Pint in progress. Click on the image to see all the detail.

 

This post was modified 11 months ago 3 times by jmone
Posted : 25/10/2019 10:57 am
manelto
(@manelto)
Estimable Member
Posted by: @jmone

You will need 260c on a TC or Brass (it will erode Brass) nozzle and even higher on a Hardened nozzle.  245c is too cool.  Here is a pic of a ePA CF Pint in progress. Click on the image to see all the detail.

 

Well, I've only tried the Benchy and it went pretty good. The only thing I don't like is that it seems a bit fragile. Maybe because of the low temperature. When I print with a higher temperature, I have a lot of oozing. But maybe it was because I had not lowered the extrusion multiplier and it was 1.2.

I print this material with a hardened 0.6 nozzle of e3d.

 

I will test with more temperature, lower extrusion multiplier, and I will play with the fans to accelerate the solidification.

 

Thanks!

This post was modified 11 months ago by manelto
Sorry for my poor English. I try to do my best....
Posted : 25/10/2019 1:29 pm
jmone
(@jmone)
Reputable Member

I'm running a 0.4 nozzle and get no oozing at all.  Also my fan settings are, always on (disable for 1st layer) with a Min 30 Max 60

Posted : 25/10/2019 10:31 pm
manelto
(@manelto)
Estimable Member
Posted by: @jmone

I'm running a 0.4 nozzle and get no oozing at all.  Also my fan settings are, always on (disable for 1st layer) with a Min 30 Max 60

I think it's the fan configuration. In any case, for now the temperature of 245c is the one that gives me the best results. Perhaps, the 0.6 nozzle needs a lower temperature than the 0.4 nozzle. In addition I also have a silicone shock. I guess that makes the temperature even higher.

But now I don't have the fan always on. I will try it.

 

Sorry for my poor English. I try to do my best....
Posted : 26/10/2019 8:08 am
Share:

Please Login or Register