(MK3S) I Just Installed a New Hotend - Do I Need to Go Thru Calibration?
 

(MK3S) I Just Installed a New Hotend - Do I Need to Go Thru Calibration?  

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BobG
 BobG
(@bobg)
Eminent Member

My MK3S came fully assembled.  I just stumbled my way through installing a new hotend.  (A Prusa replacement part which should be and looks identical to the original.)  A related YouTube video which I watched on this general subject said that when you were finished you should go through calibration.  But the manual sounds like calibration is something you do only after finishing a KIT assembly.  So ... to calibrate or not to calibrate?  That is the question.

USA / PA / 17821 : Fusion 360 > PrusaSlicer > Prusa MK3S...
Posted : 10/05/2021 7:26 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

Yes.  You need to redo you first layer calibration.  

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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 10/05/2021 7:30 pm
BobG
 BobG
(@bobg)
Eminent Member

Thanks for such a quick response Chuck!  At the top of the menu it says "Sheet Smooth1".  What does that mean?  Is it telling me to use the olive green "Heatbed Steel Sheet"? 

Thanks,  Bob  

USA / PA / 17821 : Fusion 360 > PrusaSlicer > Prusa MK3S...
Posted : 10/05/2021 7:37 pm
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(@)
Illustrious Member

@bobg

Actually - I'd recommend a full XYZ cal, then proceed to the Layer One calibration and subsequent Live Z adjustments per sheet that you are using.

The act of moving the extruder around to rebuild it or replace the hot end might move things just enough the full cal is a good idea. Plus, the full recal should be relatively painless.

Then once the mechanicals are in shape, run a PID calibration to let the printer learn the heat profile of the new hot end.

This post was modified 1 month ago by --
Posted : 10/05/2021 7:40 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@tim-2

I would concur.  First layer at a minimum but it is worth the time to do an XYZ.  Tim: Thanks for putting this here.  I was coming back to add it.  

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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 10/05/2021 7:47 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@bobg

The “sheet smooth 1” is just the name fo the sheet.  

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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 10/05/2021 7:51 pm
BobG
 BobG
(@bobg)
Eminent Member
Posted by: @cwbullet

@bobg

The “sheet smooth 1” is just the name fo the sheet.  

The name for the the olive green "Heatbed Steel Sheet"?

USA / PA / 17821 : Fusion 360 > PrusaSlicer > Prusa MK3S...
Posted : 10/05/2021 8:05 pm
BobG
 BobG
(@bobg)
Eminent Member
Posted by: @tim-2

@bobg

Actually - I'd recommend a full XYZ cal, then proceed to the Layer One calibration and subsequent Live Z adjustments per sheet that you are using.

The act of moving the extruder around to rebuild it or replace the hot end might move things just enough the full cal is a good idea. Plus, the full recal should be relatively painless.

Then once the mechanicals are in shape, run a PID calibration to let the printer learn the heat profile of the new hot end.

The menu has "Calibration XYZ" and "Calibration Z".  Does "Calibration XYZ" include "Calibration Z" or should I do both?  Can you elaborate on "Live Z adjustments"?  Thanks.  Bob

USA / PA / 17821 : Fusion 360 > PrusaSlicer > Prusa MK3S...
Posted : 10/05/2021 8:10 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@bobg

XYZ Calibrations and First Layer Calibration (this will determine your live Z).  

This post was modified 1 month ago by cwbullet
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 10/05/2021 8:13 pm
BobG
 BobG
(@bobg)
Eminent Member
Posted by: @cwbullet

@bobg

XYZ Calibrations and First Layer Calibration (this will determine your live Z).  

Thanks Chuck.  Are they done with the olive green "Heatbed Steel Sheet" on the Heatbed Base?  (Sorry for all of these really dumb questions but I just have never gotten this deep into it before.)  

USA / PA / 17821 : Fusion 360 > PrusaSlicer > Prusa MK3S...
Posted : 10/05/2021 8:19 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@bobg

We all have to learn.  I learn things every day on this forum. .  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 10/05/2021 8:49 pm
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(@)
Illustrious Member

@bobg

The XYZ can be done with any sheet - but the thicker smooth sheet is best. Why? The thickness will aid when you move to the thinner textured sheet calibration and reduces the chance you will damage the sheet during Live Z calibrations (nozzle will start higher). If done the other way around, thin then thick, the nozzle will drop lower - closer to the thicker sheet - risking contact and damage.

I'd use this order:

  1. XYZ calibration
  2. PID calibration
  3. Layer one calibration (on smooth sheet - this copies over to the Smooth Sheet 1 selection)
  4. Then change to the textured sheet, select the textured sheet 1 profile from the menus, and it should prompt you to do another Layer one calibration (if I recall right). If it doesn't prompt you, select the Live Z adjust from the MAIN or TUNE menu, make your adjustments to Z-offset, these will store automatically with whichever sheet profile selected before you start the procedure.
  5. Rinse and repeat step 4 for each sheet you use.

When all else fails - read the handbook that came with the printer; there really is good information in there. I've had my Mk3 for years and read it's handbook cover to cover before building my kit - but I was just looking through the MK3S+ handbook and found new tidbits I didn't know. 

Posted : 10/05/2021 9:23 pm
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