M112 Called - Emergency Stop - Thermal Runaway Protection
 

M112 Called - Emergency Stop - Thermal Runaway Protection  

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jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

So I've replaced my thermistor three times now on my MK3s which I've had for a year and I continue to get this after some time.  I got a solid year out of my printer before this started.  My blower fan was starting to get noisy so I replaced it with a Fystec.  A little while later I started getting the thermal runaway code and replaced my thermistor.  The block gets hot enough to cause the filament to boil before it fails with the M112.  Got a few good prints and then errors again.  Repeated this a few times and I'm wondering if something else is needing replacement.  I've verified the screw holding the thermistor is tight but not too tight to crush the thermistor.  I got my replacements from Filastruder.

Is the rambo in question?

I've run PID calibration with each new thermistor.

What else to check?

This topic was modified 1 month ago by jurassic73
Posted : 18/09/2020 6:15 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

Tried to print again.  It was preheating and then this happened.  The filament was hot enough to boil on the hot end at which time I hit reset.  The heater block is getting hot, the temp reading is not working right it seems.  If the thermistor is good (kinda odd I'd have three go bad in a row), can the rambo be having issues?

 

This post was modified 1 month ago by jurassic73
Posted : 18/09/2020 6:31 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

This is a problem between the Prusa and Octoprint.  It is fixed in an upcoming firmware.  

Posted : 18/09/2020 6:59 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

@charles-h13

Thanks for the reply.  Do you know if there is a temporary fix?  Can I rollback my firmware?

Posted : 18/09/2020 7:37 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

@jurassic73

I did a hard reset and that sometimes fixes it.  What filament are you printing?

Posted : 18/09/2020 8:18 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member
Posted by: @charles-h13

@jurassic73

I did a hard reset and that sometimes fixes it.  What filament are you printing?

hard reset = power cycle?  I have done this to no avail.  Thanks for the suggestion.

I am printing with the generic PLA profile in Prusa Slicer.  Odd thing is I printed a PETG item last night just fine, 30 minute print.  I did update to the latest firmware(3.9.1) now to try to troubleshoot but still having the same problem.

Posted : 18/09/2020 8:31 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

Saw this in the 3.9.1 notes but seems my attempt to run this firmware didn't help unless there's a compliment to this update in octoprint?

[quote]

Octoprint causing M112 fixed

The previous firmware versions sometimes incorrectly dropped some parts at the start of communication while connected over a serial line. This resulted in a scenario, where for example the Octoprint evaluated the printer as unavailable and sent G-code M112, which is a full emergency stop. More about the G-code M112 in our article at help.prusa3d.com.

This issue is now fixed and the printer communicates properly over the serial line.[/quote]

Posted : 18/09/2020 8:35 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

Odd that this dives after the temp change from 1st layer to 2nd...

Posted : 18/09/2020 8:39 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

@jurassic73

No, hold the selector down while power on.  That fixes it for a few days to weeks.  

I have had nearly no problems since uploading one printer to the new RC firmware.  It has nearly always been with PETG, ABS, and PC Blend.  I do nto understand it.  It never happens without printing from USB or SD card.  

Posted : 18/09/2020 9:01 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

@jurassic73

Are you sure you updated to 3.91 - that is the RC and not the active firmware.  

Posted : 18/09/2020 9:03 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member
Posted by: @charles-h13

@jurassic73

No, hold the selector down while power on.  That fixes it for a few days to weeks.  

Ah - thanks and done.  Trying to print again now.

prusa3d_fw_MK3S_3_9_1-RC1_3512.hex is what I installed.

Posted : 18/09/2020 9:21 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

No dice.  Tried to slice and set all layers to same temp, pukes at layer change still.  Odd.

Posted : 18/09/2020 9:37 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

I tried.  It seems a few folsk are hevign this problem for different reasons.  I can't udnerstand it.

Posted : 18/09/2020 10:32 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member
Posted by: @charles-h13

I tried.  It seems a few folsk are hevign this problem for different reasons.  I can't udnerstand it.

Thanks for your help.  Whittles down the troubleshooting 'logic'!

 

 

Posted : 18/09/2020 10:46 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

@jurassic73

True.  I must have been drunk typing that.  

Posted : 18/09/2020 11:15 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/prusa-slicer-pla-print-fan-speed-causes-thermal-runaway/

Interesting... about fan kicking on.  I had no issues printing PETG last night.  PLA today however has been a pain.

Posted : 18/09/2020 11:45 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

@jurassic73

Great info

Posted : 18/09/2020 11:56 pm
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

So I think I'm getting somewhere... I turned the fan down to 76/255 via the control knob and the graph is relatively flat.  I did install this fan after my stock one started making a lot of noise.

https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Cooling-50x50x15mm-Radiator-Accessories/dp/B07NTKG9K4

Looks like it pulls more current than the stock MK3s blower fan which is .28A and this new fan pulls .35A so I assume just a more powerful fan.  Will see how this print turns out and if I need to see if my cooling shroud has any damage or the like with air leaking up into the thermal probe area.  I do have my block in a silicon sock already.

Curious if those spikes are due to the shape of the print sending air back up into the thermistor probe.

 

Posted : 19/09/2020 12:29 am
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Famed Member

Please keep us updated.  

Posted : 19/09/2020 1:07 am
jurassic73
(@jurassic73)
Trusted Member

Worked on this more last night.  Here's a video of the temp fluctuations.

I even witnessed the temp fluctuation during bed leveling.  Stayed at 225/210 for a bit.

I had fired up a print, let it get to layer two when the cooling fan turns on to see fluctuations in temp, then turned the fan speed down from 255/255 to 100/255 and temps leveled out at 210 for a few minutes then went wonky again jumping around.

I find it hard to believe that three thermistors in a row would go bad in short time.

This all started after I swapped out my cooling fan.  This cooling fan is sold on a number of sites as a replacement for the stock blower fan.  I can't imagine jumping up from a fan that uses .28A to one that uses .35A would cause issues even since I slowed the fan speed and this happens.

When I install a new thermistor, things are good for a while then eventually get like they are now.

Is there a way to debug the Rambo unit?

This post was modified 1 month ago by jurassic73
Posted : 19/09/2020 5:07 pm
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