Is there some way to simplify extruder disassembly?  

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mhelvens
(@mhelvens)
New Member

I occasionally find myself having to disassemble the extruder carriage in order to remove something that's blocking the filament path. As it turns out, this requires me to disconnect all wires from inside the control box and remove the cable sleeve and all zip-ties.

Has someone come up with a way to simplify this process? I know I can't be the first to have encountered this issue. Knowing the 3D printing community, someone will have designed a solution and shared it, but my Google fu is failing me.

In case there isn't already a solution out there, the simplest one I can think of is to insert connectors for all wires entering the assembly, and a 3D-printed clamp of some sort to secure the wire bundle (in lieu of zip-ties) and prevent strain on the individual wires. But I'd like some feedback on this idea, and some guidance w.r.t. what type of connectors to use, and so on.

Thanks!

Posted : 08/10/2019 10:12 pm
joan.t
(@joantabb)
Veteran Member Moderator

I cut the filament off at the top of the PTFE Tube, leave the idler door open

heat the extruder to about 280C for a couple of minutes then push a long 1.5mm hex key onto the cue end of the filament and push firmly. 
if it doesnt move, remove the nozzle and try again.
if the filament moves after removing the nozzle you probably have junk in the nozzle,  clean out or replace as you see fit!

Joan

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK...
Posted : 09/10/2019 1:23 am
laura.f2 liked
laura.f2
(@laura-f2)
Eminent Member
Posted by: @joantabb

heat the extruder to about 280C for a couple of minutes then push a long 1.5mm hex key onto the cue end of the filament and push firmly. 

So I'm not the only person who does this!!

The MK3S update is an improvement here - you can leave the body on and just remove the covers. it would be nice if the "channel" for the wiring kept the wiring in place also.

But agreed it is messy - it takes a long time to get the extruder exactly right and a refit sometimes can mess up a perfect setup

Posted : 09/10/2019 3:47 pm
chocki
(@chocki)
Honorable Member

You can also use a brass welding rod, I got this tip from the forum, the brass is 1.6 to 1.7mm diameter and being brass wont damage your heat break or nozzle.

Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet....
Posted : 09/10/2019 6:02 pm
mhelvens
(@mhelvens)
New Member

Thanks all! Will definitely try this.

The purpose behind the post was more about simplifying disassembly in general, rather than just resolving a clogged hotend. But I'll be happy if I can solve the main cause my problems. 🙂

Posted : 09/10/2019 8:12 pm
christoph.e5
(@christoph-e5)
Eminent Member

You could print and use a more service friendly extruder and switch to a geared one in the process. I've not looked back since changing to BNBSX (but that requires changing x-ends as well). I've also tried the skelestruder and some (not so successful) other designs. We do have options apart from R4...

Posted : 11/10/2019 1:30 pm
chocki
(@chocki)
Honorable Member

I can second skelestruder. I made and use one and it just works, but I think BNBSX will probably be easier to maintain, not that I have had to do anything to the skelestruder, it also allows a clearer view of the print nozzle. 

Normal people believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet....
Posted : 11/10/2019 1:49 pm
vintagepc
(@vintagepc)
Noble Member

Third vote for a skelestruder.

Posted : 11/10/2019 1:58 pm
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