i3Mk3S clicking all the time
Hi, hope someone can help.
A few months ago I changed my nozzle for 0.25, changed the printer settings to suit etc. Printed some fine detail objects with Prusament PLA. Since I swapped back to a 0.4 nozzle (and did the settings again) I get clicks from the extruder all the time, the filament comes out when it feels like it.
So far I've recalibrated the thing, recalibrated the first layer, changed to a new 0.4 nozzle, stripped and cleaned the hob gears, reset the hob gears when the one on the stepper came loose, dismantled and reseated the hot end, changed the whole hot end, put in a standard V6 heatbreak instead of the Prusa specific one, tried different PLA filaments.
Then I tried PETG. That worked fine, got good prints for a while until the dreaded clicks returned. Clicks are from the extruder as you can feel the shock revberate through the filament back to the reel.
I'm at my wits end with this printer. Frankly the thing will be on ebay soon if I can fix this. Luckily I have another mk3S (upgraded from an ordinary mk3) which works wonderfully even with nozzle changes several times a week.
So, to save me all the work or dismantling the printer for shipping, does anyone know what else I can try?
I've read the wonderful post about the heatbreak by the way (explained why its less of a problem on PETG) and already switched to standard V6 heatbreaks. And I've tried different temps, 197 seems to work better than standard Prusa temps, I've increased the speed too and that is also helping.
But the biggest thing that has worked for a while on each is to change the filament during the print as soon as I hear a click.
Not much fun on really long prints, needing to sit around waiting for the click.
If you changed nozzles, did you carefully follow the E3D-V6 assembly guide? Minor variations in assembly yields printing errors like you are having. One easy check is the height of the nozzle HEX off the aluminum heater block. About 0.7 to 1.0 mm is normal. If your nozzle is buried into the block, the heater block and heat break are not doing their job.
A very good point indeed. I checked this ages ago, found a problem and dissassembled andd then rebuilt the hot end compeltely following the E3D guide. It didn't make any difference at all sadly, well except I wasn't getting such dreadful oozing of filament as I was before I fixed it. So far the most consistent fix I have is to lower the temps and speed things up a little, clues which I gleaned from this forum post by antimix:
Indeed it was seeing the video about the heatbreak silliness earlier this summer that caused me to change from the Prusa special ones to E3D standard ones.
Right now I'm still annoyed that the one printer works fanastically well giving wonderful results whilst the other is a pain the backside.
I'll invite the thing to a kicking match - One kick each in turn. I'll start and afterwards it has 30 seconds to give me a kick before I get to give it another, etc. Good way of resolving anger issues with machinery I've found.
Been a week, I've tried all sorts.
Lower temps - works fine for Prusament, not for some of the no-name brand I have
Higher speed - works fine for bot Prusament and no-name
Bit cold where the printers are atm so looks like I'll have to struggle on with this a while longer. AT least those odd few hours the printers aren't reporting MINTEMP errors they are both printing well. So the bothersome one will be kept a while longer.