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Heat creep ruined my adhesion!  

New Member
Heat creep ruined my adhesion!


Long story short: after a rigorous week of near non-stop printing (flawlessly), my MK3 has ran into an issue. 

After my last print finished, I went to start another one and it got to about 60% before jamming. I believe this was due to "heat creep" as the extruder motor was unbearably hot & clicking (about 95-100°c if I had to guess).  

Since this, I haven't been able to print anything. Nothing sticks to the bed anymore, even after a complete recalibration.  I have ran through almost every single article and I seemed to have fixed the heat creep issue by applying thermal paste to the heat sink screw thing. 

Since this mishap, I am unable to even get a first layer down using a known good filament.  I am 1000% certain everything is in its correct position and normal, and have gone through every single troubleshooting method i can think of. (Cold pull, cleaning, recalibration/setup wizard, etc), still nothing works. Is it possible my extrusion motor has been damaged due to the heat and it is under extruding? That's literally the only thing I can think of. 

This topic was modified 1 year ago 2 times by rob.p5
Posted : 31/07/2020 5:10 am
Peter M
Noble Member
RE: Heat creep ruined my adhesion!

Most important is:

Clean bed, clean with dish soap, and use it then, no alcohol needed, wash a few times.

Second is , a perfect first layer calibration.

These 2 settings are very important.

Because you work at your 3d printer do also first a z-layer calibration.

Movie first layer calibration,

General how I work:

A new sheet will stick less then a used one.

PLA sticks more difficult on a powder coated sheet. Is still possible settings need to be more preciese.

This how I work on a pei sheet(there are always exceptions):
Most important to 3d printing is:

1. 3d print will never be like start and i have the print, there will always be problems!!!!!!

2. A clean sheet, use dish soap, then you can print on it. A few prints you can use alcohol, then again dish soap,
big flat models and models with small footprint on sheet- use glue stick(and not every glue stick is the same,
use one that makes a thin layer), and big flat models and small footprint, use a big brim attach to model so footprint is bigger.

Petg sticks to much on the pei sheet, use window cleaner, this leaves a layer on the bed, so it does not stick to much.

3. To get it stick very good, a 100% first layer is very important, see youtube for movie on this.
Every new print watch the first layer, and look if it is 100%, this will also prevent a big ball of filament on your nozzle wen model let loose during printing.

Extra: (normally not needed).

First layer, print hotter.
First layer slower.
Bed more heat.

Most problems are first layer to get this 100%, and bed not clean.

Bad filament is possible, or filament with water inside.

Move extruder to the top and extrude filament, it should go straight down(if not, nozzle possible blocked),
it should be thick enough(if not, nozzle possible blocked, or partial blocked), (do a cold pull),
if Bubbling during extrusion then it has to much water inside.
Check after the first layer is ready, then you see if it sticking enough, and not releasing and sticking to the nozzle.
If you see white spots like a bubble on the bed, then filament is releasing from bed.
Also no gabs between lines should be visible.

Use 7x7 calibration for first layer, see settings in the printer.
Search for " 3D printer first layer problem Calibration process" on youtube, movie on first layer calibration, with a good zoom in.


Posted : 31/07/2020 9:45 pm