Canted bed after Bearmera upgrade
Please help me out as I am chasing my tail here.
I have a problem with my bed level after mounting a Hemera. It is not warped but canted like a slope, from left to right about 1 mm+. Too much to compensate with firmware or even the "nyloc nut" method. I am currently running an i3 Mk3S with Taurus Y and Z axis (previously full Taurus with Skelestruder which worked flawlessly), the X axis and Hemera mount are "Bearmera" found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4362586.
What is most troublesome is that given the different position of the PINDA, I cannot do full XYZ calibration (I folowed this guide https://guides.bear-lab.com/Guide/5.+Software+configuration/30?lang=en).
What I did is run "Calibrate Z", then reset the printer when it hit the Z ends, then run G80 from Pronterface. This is what it looks like.
G81:
0.10833 -0.13417 -0.28750 -0.46833 -0.68083 -0.80833 -0.91250
0.16500 -0.02750 -0.25167 -0.44167 -0.58250 -0.77250 -0.94083
0.22083 0.02417 -0.22417 -0.38812 -0.55250 -0.73417 -0.92667
0.22083 0.01500 -0.17500 -0.33417 -0.52833 -0.70667 -0.89083
0.22667 0.04667 -0.16000 -0.33313 -0.52000 -0.72250 -0.88667
0.25333 0.11167 -0.12000 -0.31833 -0.46000 -0.67000 -0.88750
0.17917 0.03667 -0.20583 -0.36917 -0.53417 -0.72417 -0.87750
What I already did is I swapped the Z axis to an original - no change, yesterday I rebuild the printer from scratch, leveling the frame on glass, swapping the aluminium extrusions, and the rods which seem to be straight, I replaced LMUU bearings on Y axis. The bed itself is not warped. Still nothing to be found that is causing this to happen. What I find most interesting is that even swapping sides of aluminium extrusions, and swapping sides of linear rod supports, the bed is canted in the same way ( I suspected that it would be canted from right to left)
RE: Canted bed after Bearmera upgrade
In my experience if bed is is tilted left or right when you look at the data from a mesh bed level (easiest is via octoprint and the mesh bed level plugin to give you a graphical view of it, note: you may have to flip Y axis via a checkbox) then a z calibration will usually fix it.
just let the z calibration run and do its thing, first it will move z axis all the way up and then do a short mesh bed leveling to check how tilted the bed is and then compensate.
next mesh bed level should show up a lot more even.
But my experience is based on a stock mk3s with only a few minor mods to some plastic parts.