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Broken nozzle in heaterblock - fix or upgrade?  

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Martin Pucherna
(@martin-pucherna)
Active Member
Broken nozzle in heaterblock - fix or upgrade?

So i´ve managed to break down the nozzle in heaterblock. I´ve changed nozzles quite a few times and this happened. I have original MK3.

So what to do with it now? Replace with original parts? I guess i need new:

- heaterblock ($18)

- thermistor ($10)

- heater cartridge ($7)

and probably heatbreak ($23) - i might try to heat the old block and save this part, it might be reusable.

It´s kinda expensive fix so i´m thinking - wouldn´t be better to upgrade complete hotend in this situation? What upgrade? 

If i go with stock parts i will probably take the MK3s upgrade also when it is disassembled.

Thanks for info:)

Posted : 27/03/2020 10:08 am
DJ
 DJ
(@dj-6)
Trusted Member
RE: Broken nozzle in heaterblock - fix or upgrade?

You might want to just replace the entire hotend if that’s an option for you. You could then be printing while you try to salvage the undamaged parts to have as spares. 

DJ

Posted : 27/03/2020 2:11 pm
Martin Pucherna
(@martin-pucherna)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Broken nozzle in heaterblock - fix or upgrade?

Well yes as i said that´s definitely an option. 

But i do now know which one - the original? Or some upgraded?

Posted : 27/03/2020 2:26 pm
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
RE: Broken nozzle in heaterblock - fix or upgrade?

If you're in the US, you can source your parts from Filastruder or PrintedSolid. Both are first-rate companies that I've dealt with extensively. I had almost the same problem -- my heater block stripped -- and had to replace:

  • Heater block
  • Thermistor
  • Heater cartridge
  • Heatbreak

I upgraded the following while I was at it:

  • Replaced the heatbreak with an E3D Titanium heatbreak. This is better at preventing heat creep and does not have the Prusa 2.2-2.0mm step that causes problems for some folks. I never had the issue, but considered this a good "while I'm here" upgrade.
  • Replaced the heater block with an E3D nickel-plated copper block. Again, not required but don't want to do this again. It is also supposed to be a bit stronger material than aluminum, so hopefully won't strip out.

You didn't mention what sort of nozzle you were using, but avoid the cheap ones for exactly this reason. I only use E3D or P3-D nozzles.

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and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Posted : 27/03/2020 3:23 pm
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