3D printer partially clogging followed by clicking then complete clogging
 

[Solved] 3D printer partially clogging followed by clicking then complete clogging  

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Marco3712
(@marco3712)
Active Member

Hey for some time my I3 mk3s MMU2 3D printer have not been working as it should and I have spent alot of time fixing various issues but now I have reached a point where I do not know how to fix it or what is causing the issue. I have tried doing coldpulls where nothing comes up with the nylon  so I assume the printer is clean. could it be over extrution causing the printer starting to extrude less and less untill complete clogging? Or is my newly bought olyson ruby nozzle the issue? I am on my last leg with nothing else to try and would love to get any suggestions or ideas to help me resolve the issue 

 

How my prints end up coming out

Best Answer by --:

Here's what Nigel is asking: when you unload the filament after a clog, is there a stub, and if so, what is the stub diameter?

If the stub is 2.2 mm, as shown here, the heat break may be causing problems.

Posted : 06/11/2020 8:46 am
Dingo_aus
(@dingo-aus)
Active Member

When you pull the "clog" out, is it 2mm or 2.2mm at its widest point?

Posted : 06/11/2020 12:03 pm
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(@-2)
Illustrious Member

Here's what Nigel is asking: when you unload the filament after a clog, is there a stub, and if so, what is the stub diameter?

If the stub is 2.2 mm, as shown here, the heat break may be causing problems.

This post was modified 5 months ago 2 times by --
It is always wise to get more than one opinion... as for trusting Prusa? No way man....
Posted : 06/11/2020 9:33 pm
Dingo_aus liked
Marco3712
(@marco3712)
Active Member

@tim-m30

yes thank you it does seem like it is abit more wide at the end that has been in the nozzle around 2mm ish I would say (sorry but my caliper is broken so I cant get precise measurements) how would one go and fix this issue with the heat break?

Posted : 07/11/2020 10:46 am
Dingo_aus
(@dingo-aus)
Active Member

@marcojeppesen

I fixed mine today by replacing the Prusa Heat Brake with the standard E3D heat brake. The Standard E3D heat brake is 2mm all the way, the Prusa one has a step between 2.2mm and 2mm.

See:

https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-hardware-firmware-and-software-help/prusa-edition-heat-break-easily-jam-clog-with-pla/paged/2/

Posted : 07/11/2020 11:58 am
Marco3712
(@marco3712)
Active Member

@dingo-aus

thank you for the help just ordered a standard e3D heatbrake

Posted : 07/11/2020 3:26 pm
Dingo_aus liked
Marco3712
(@marco3712)
Active Member

@dingo-aus

ok so after putting in the heatbreak I still get the same issue just now it dosnt have that 2.2mm stup 

any other suggestions?

Posted : 11/11/2020 4:22 pm
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 --
(@-2)
Illustrious Member

Sorry to hear the replacement didn't help. That's why accurately measuring the stub is useful.  On that subject, did you follow the E3D-V6 assembly instructions when replacing the heat break? Use thermal grease, insert the heat break into the heater block the correct depth, leave a gap on the nozzle hex? Not following those instructions to the letter can cause print problems, too.

 

The second thing to look for is that the nozzle is staying hot. Broken wires in the rat tail from the extruder to the Einsy case are known causes. This causes a loss of nozzle heat, thermistors reading errors, and a host of other problems. And it can be print height dependent. Works lower down, but begins failing as the extruder moves upwards.

Watch the temperature readout closely. If the temperature ever drops more than 7 or 10 degrees while printing, you have a problem. External tools, like Octoprint connected and watching printer temperatures can log these measurements and help figure out what is happening, too. You also don't need a complex part like Benchy to find some wire issues, printing anything tall, or several tall but small objects placed around the bed that print quickly (slice at 0.3 mm for a faster build). 

You mention an Olsen Ruby: are you adding heat to compensate for that nozzle?  You might want to step back and try a brass nozzle, installed using the E3D instructions, just as a baseline.  Try PLA, then move back to the higher temp material.

Also, Nylon - I believe - doesn't flow as well as other plastics, and can't be printed fast, so try slowing the print down to 60%. It also tends to suck up water and must be dried to a reasonable moisture content before printing. 

Since this thread has been marked solved - you might ask a moderator to unmark it to get more attention from others that may be able to help.

 

This post was modified 5 months ago by --
It is always wise to get more than one opinion... as for trusting Prusa? No way man....
Posted : 11/11/2020 4:49 pm
Marco3712
(@marco3712)
Active Member

@tim-m30

Hey sorry for taking my time to respond as I have needed to go through each and every question you have made thoroughly and I have made progress that did fix the issues to an extent.

The temperature does not drop and stays consistent say for when the first layer is done and the fan kicks in

Changing the print height has shown nothing even when I have purposefully made the print not be on the buildplate have it done the clicking

I have tried making sure that the head is assembled correctly and after a quick reassemply has shown some small improvements where it can finish >1 hour prints 

I also sadly dont have a 2nd brass nozzle to test it out on since my old is completely worn out and I am unable to buy a new one at my current time

and trying to increase or lower the printing temp has also not shown any improvements or changes to the clicking

the clicking usually happens at random after about 1 hour of printing which then leads to the clogging but not before the print quality gets a very big downgrade for 2 minutes or so before clogging

Posted : 15/11/2020 5:30 pm
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(@-2)
Illustrious Member

Have you done cold pulls?  Probably should have been my first suggestion. If you've been printing for months without issue, old plastic residue can begin accumulating inside the nozzle. It sort of bakes on the inside surfaces, reducing area. 

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075

 

ps: with an MMU, drag in the Bowden tubing can also prevent proper extrusion. And I don't have much to offer for helping with MMU issues.

This post was modified 5 months ago by --
It is always wise to get more than one opinion... as for trusting Prusa? No way man....
Posted : 15/11/2020 5:38 pm
Marco3712
(@marco3712)
Active Member

@tim-m30

Cold pulls was one of the first things I did (hence why I have the nylon) and nothing came out which was expected as the nozzle is almost completely new and has barely been used for more then 20 hours due to the current issues I am having

aswell as the bowden tubes are completely clean and smooth and I have tested multiple times dragging filamment in and out of it constantly with no sign of resistence 

Posted : 15/11/2020 6:49 pm
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