Printed parts and instructions for MK3 to MK3S+ upgrade
The SuperPinda doesn't have temp compensation. That is why it has 3 instead of 4 wires now. That looked like a downgrade to me, but according to Prusa it doesn't need it as it SuperPINDA is temperature-independent.
I have a good working MK3s too, but have ordered the upgrade kit anyway. Maybe it is not needed but I will have some spare parts.
I will take care not to upgrade my printers. They run fine as they are, so I will not change anything mechanically or firmware. This is not to say that the upgrades are not useful, but I will not change any running system.
I know that is the smart thing to do and it was what I had planned when I bought the Prusa. But sometimes the urge to tinker with these things is stronger than me.
That is why I'm looking to get a Mini to have a backup to just print with. But I'm not sure yet if that Mini should maybe be a 2nd MK3s.
I received my MK3S on the first week on Nov and almost 2 weeks later they announced +. I have not assembled it since I want to upgrade to Igus bearings and U bolts (Which I never cared for) are problem. They hit the vertical frame since the aluminum housing makes the bearing slightly bigger than LM8UU. I hope new clips will be lower profile.
So the STL and 3mf files are on https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/
I was thinking that the 3mf file would have allt the correct settings in them, but they didn't.
My question is if I need to have support enabled on the print or are they designed to be printed without support?
And what I could understand all the part should be printed with black PETG except the fan shrout that should be printed with ASA or ABS. Is that correct?
Historically all the Prusa Printer parts can be printed without supports
the Filament Sensor lever is supposed to be Black, whilst black is reccommended I have seen many other colours used by home printers for customisation.
the parts are usually PETG with the exception of the Fan Shroud, which should be a higher temperature material, say ASA
some makers make the whole printed part package out of higher temperature filament because they intend to print exotic filaments inside an elevated temperature enclosure.
I know of one engineer who used Lost PLA casting techniques to case his extruder housing out of Aluminium. but that may well have made the entire X carriage heavier than it need be.
the Prusa recommendations are
RECOMMENDED PRINT SETTINGS:
0.2 mm layer height, infill 20% GRID and material PETG.
We recommend using black filament to print all MK3S and MK2.5S extruder parts. If you want different color, you can use it, but the FS-lever part should be definitely dark (black) and the other parts surrounding the IR-Sensor as well. In case you use any lighter colour for the FS-lever it might not trigger the sensor.
I'm curious, since I have an i3 Mk3s, besides replacing the PINDA to a SuperPINDA to improve self-leveling slightly, which is only $26, what would be the additional consumer value to an existing i3 Mk3S that prints very well in purchasing an upgrade kit? (Besides supporting an excellent company..)
I have to admit, I was hoping for something more significant in change, like moving from 8bit to 64bit, fancier screen like the mini, etc. Is anything that grand waiting for a Mk4?
Significant upgrades like a 32-bit board and a full-colour high-resolution screen are likely to be reserved for any future "MK4" that they may have in the pipeline, much like the significant changes they made between the MK1, MK2 and Mk3 (adding bed levelling, filament detection and so on). This was just a minor "quality of life improvement" to the MK3 line in the same way that the MK3 was upgraded to the MK3S a while back. The only things that the MK3S+ adds to an MK3S are:
- The SuperPINDA which will give a *barely* noticeable improvement to the first layer over the one already installed (the temperature-calibrated PINDA v2 was already very good)
- If your MK3S ever needs stripping down for repair or renovation, then the new version Y axis rod clips, U-bolt replacing Y axis bearing clamps that won't crack your bearings, and improved tensioner X axis ends, make setting it back up a lot easier
- The revised layout of the extruder adds numerous ventilation holes to help cool the Bondtech gears and prevent the hot extruder motor softening low-temperature filaments like PLA which can cause jams on print runs with thin layers and/or many retractions
I originally assembled my MK3S in some eagerness when I got it so I never cleaned my bearings out and re-packed with lithium grease to ensure they ran smoothly long-term. It seized up a month later and I have been using 3-in-1 oil to lubricate it ever since. On top of that, I've had so many filament jams on fiddly PLA print runs due to extruder motor heat creep that I had to install an extruder cooler fan in an attempt to stop them. As such, I'd be looking to strip the whole machine down at some point to fix all that, so the MK3S+ upgrade in its entirety makes sense for me. I've even remixed my previous remix of an extruder fan shroud, just in case those passive ventilation holes aren't enough, to divert some air into the frontmost of the three new extruder holes on an MK3S+, which leads directly to the base of the driven Bondtech gear (using the other two wasn't feasible as it would cover the idler tension screw and obstruct the X axis end-stop).
Thanks for the detailed response. I'm game to try to implement an MMU2S at the same time of upgrading to the Mk3S+, so I guess that tear down is my justification. I noticed that there is no extruder upgrade path from Mk3s+ to MMU2S in STL yet. Wonder why that hasn't occurred? I can't imagine that they evolve the Mk3S to + and then forget about MMU2S upgrades.
The MMU2S upgrade is fully compatible with both the MK3S and MK3S+. However, the extruder parts that allow the MK3S+ to connect to a MMU2S are included in the MK3S+ STL repository, not the MMU2S repository. I don't have an MMU2S so I'm only going by what I can extrapolate from the files present, but it looks like you want 5 parts which all have the suffix "MMU2S". The first 3 are alternative parts to the those that have the same name without "MMU2S" at the end (which are what you need for a standalone MK3S+), and the other two are additional.
Thanks again Matt! Perhaps they just need to remove the mk3s extruder directory from the MMU2S STL zip, if they are including the MMU2 STL's in the Mk3S+ release. Starting printing them today in PC/PETG.