PETG First Layer Settings using Overture PETG
Opinions please from anyone using Overture brand PETG. I've printed my first parts using Overture brand red and black PETG on the smooth PEI sheet. I'm using the generic PETG settings in PrusaSlicr which uses a temp of 230. The parts printed fine and look excellent except the first layer of most parts has a very smooth finish on one portion and visible lines on the rest that you can feel when you run a fingernail across them. I increased the first layer Z value and that resulted in an almost all smooth first layer, but the part had a fair amount of elephant's foot. Should I go back to my original first layer Z value and increase the temperature some, perhaps to 240 or 250? Would this cause the first layer to "flow" together a bit more?
I have used the Prusament PETG setting with great success.
Overture Clear PETG came with a bed adhesion surface that is adhesive. I plan to try it as soon as some releases a steel sheet to use it on.
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I frequently print with Overture PETG. 1st layer thickness is indeed dependent on getting Z just right. That you'll have to play with because it can be idiosyncratic for your printer / plate combination. As you have noted too far above plate creates separated lines. Too low and you get continuous layer but some elephant foot. Which is pretty much like any other filament.
My usual temps with Overture PETG on E3D V6 with 0.4 brass nozzle that get reliably goot results on a texture PEI are...
Extruder 1st layer 255 Other layers 260
Bed 1st layer 85 other layers 90
Yes, that is a bit hotter than you are using.
If you have not done the LIFE Z MY WAY process for getting Z correct, definitely do that and allow MESH leveling to do more than just 9 points.
Search this forum for the LIFE Z MY Way thread and files. Yes, LIVE is intentionally misspelled because thread title is that way.
"Elephants foot" is normal for the first layer to insure good adhesion to the bed with a nice squish. If you find that troubling you can change slicer settings to help that. If printing at 0.2mm, just adjust the first layer in your slicer to 0.15mm so even with a squish it will not have "Elephant foot". Just realize you will not have as wide a bond area with the bed so do a test print to see if the adhesion is strong enough for the print you are doing. If the first layer is very small on the object you are printing that might not work out well, but if you get a good bond it should be fine. You may need to adjust Z height for first layer to get this right, but with a bit of testing and adjusting you can set as a preset for Steel sheet 2 or Texure sheet 2 and use it when it matters to you.
Thanks for the inputs Folks. I'm going to play around with temperature and speed, and bed temp and see what happens.
Thanks much. I was having a hair-pulling problem with an ornamental hinge that had a great deal of support material under it. Although your settings seemed counter-intuitive, I thought 'what do I have to lose' (trick question, answer was nothing) and tried them. Success. I got a print. The only downside was that the support material fused quite tightly to the model and was a real cow to get off. I'm wondering if the contact Z distance (set to .1mm by default) might be twiddle-able.
I tend to use contact z of 0.3 mm for my supports in PETG. Try a bigger spacing that 0.1 mm if you get too much fusion
Tried .3 mm for contact z. While I wouldn't say getting the support material off was easy, it was certainly a sight easier than the .1 mm setting. For anyone reading this, I'm using Overture PETG on a Prusa Mark3s and Slic3R. Settings are default save for these:
Under Support Material
Contact Z distance = .3mm
Solid infill = 50mm/s
Support = 40 mm/s
Under Print Settings
Skirt and Brim
Brim width = 3mm
Under Filament settings
first layer = 255C other layers = 260C
first layer = 85C other layers = 90C
Hope this helps any other newbies out there. And thanks so much again, guy-k2, for your help. You saved me much trouble.