Ninjaflex is hard.. well not hard, but you know what I mean:(
Hi! Im trying to print with Ninjaflex but im having trouble with the bridge infill layer.. Im using this guide as a startingpoint ( https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/12586-ninjaflex-profile-zero-stringing-flawless-print-be) and these settings did help alot, but all my prints still fails when I reach bridging layer over infill.. It prints a little bit of bridge infill but then the filament jams in the extrution wheel.. like it pushes to hard when reatching bridging? Printing 100% infill works great but it fails everytime when starting bridge infill above internal infill.. Can bridge flowrate helpe with this you think or do you have other ideas i can try? I have a Mk3s.. Thanks for any replies! 🙂 Ole (Norway)
I've done some printing with Ninjaflex.
First tip is to use as little pressure as possible on the extruder gear, just enough for it to grab, that helps stop it from getting stuck and wrapping around. It can still happen but it's less likely with less pressure. So turn that screw so it's still got some tension on the spring but not much.
Second is to turn off retraction, I tried a few times with different settings and always had issues using any retraction.
Third is to slow down everything, if you try to print too fast you'll create too much back pressure and the filament will wrap around or come out somewhere near the gear. I think most of my settings are half the speed of what they are with PETG.
Thank you for answering🙂 I managed to get some nice prints yesterday. I changed the bowden tube and cut a new one that had a snugger fit under the extrution wheel. I also incresed the temp some what to 249 C°. I also took of som pressure on the gear like you suggested! I still dont understand why i ony failed when starting bridge infill before? Does it speed up the gear during bridging over infill?
Anyways, thank for helping!
I still dont understand why i ony failed when starting bridge infill before? Does it speed up the gear during bridging over infill?
When you are in preview (layer) view the slicer shows by different colors what type of extrusion it's doing in each area, once you know what it's doing in the problem location then go to "print settings" "speed" and look for what speed it's using there.
If you didn't change any speed settings it was the increase in temperature and less pressure on the gear spring that probably solved it, that would let the nijaflex flow easier and put less back pressure between the gear and the nozzle. You have to think of printing with this stuff as if you are trying to push a rubber band down a straw and maintain pressure on the other end.