‘PRUSA’ badge looks messy
Hi, as a complete newbie to 3D printing, and since building my mk3s from a kit over last weekend I have been calibrating it and producing some test prints. I am not quite sure what I am looking at, so any advice would be appreciated.
The attached photos are of my latest attempt, with a Z setting of 0.595. I am confused, because the back suggests the nozzle is a little high as it is not quite filled in, but when I look at the top, it doesn’t look like any of the online photo’s I have seen. I’m not sure of the right language to use, but I would describe it as messy. Is this how the print should turn out? If so, what can I adjust to improve the quality?
Layer one is much too high... start there.
I can't even guess what is happening on the inner and top layers.
Did you run the calibration wizard that is presented on initial power-up? Did the calibrations all complete and self tests all pass?
fyi: layer one is just a platform the other layers build on. If layer one sticks, layer two normally goes down and is mostly unaffected by what layer one looks like. By the time you get to layer 5 everything below is a don't care. So why the upper layers look so bad is a mystery at this point.
Did you by chance disassemble the hot end (the nozzle and heat sink with wires coming out of it) then put it back together when making the kit?
thanks for the quick response. I’ve increased the First Layer Calibration to 650 and it definitely looks better, although I think it could still go lower.
Ive also included some shots as it was printing the middle layers, and on these you can see how rough it is as it is building up the layers.
What is still really rough is the final print.
Prior to printing for the first time I did a firmware upgrade,mran through the Selftest, the XYZ Calibration, and I have done a number of First Layer Calibrations, trying to get a smooth rectangle on both the upper and lower surface.
the file I am printing is MK3_PLA_Prusa_200um_20M.gcode
The filament is the one that came with the kit, and I have cleaned the bed with both soapy water and on previous attempts the isopropyl alcohol wipe.
with all 3 prints I’ve done, the top layer appears to be the same, even with different first layer calibrations.
Try using this for first layer cal - it's big enough to give you time to adjust; or just use the logo. Use Live-Z Adjust or Tune : Live-Z Adjust as layer one is going down. Make changes -0.025 mm at a time until the layer is filled and strings connect and weld.
Here's what I use - and an image of a fair layer one print.
As for layers above layer 1 - you have something seriously wrong. Impossible to tell without layer 1 being good. So solve layer 1 first.
You want a completely filled sheet of plastic. No gaps between strips laid down, and when you pull it up it should come up like pulling masking tape off of glass.
Keep fingers off the print surface; use tools to remove parts. If you do have finger prints of the sheet, wash it with dish detergent (Dawn) and running warm water and rinse in running hot water until the water beads off like a freshly waxed car. Handle the sheet only by the edges. Use fresh paper towels to scrub and dry - anything else will leave contamination you don't want.
- Also - what is the name of the Prusa Logo file you are printing? Is it the one that came on the Prusa SD card?
the file I am printing is the one supplied on the SD card.
i have assumed it is correct as it was supplied with the kit.
Thanks - printing that gcode takes away many possible sources of problems and will make troubleshooting the issues easier.
Trying printing the prusa gcode, but stop after layer 1 is complete. But while layer 1 is being printed, use Live-Z adjust (via the LCD) to lower the nozzle until the filament starts to weld to the last pass, the point coverage is 100% and there is no gap between the tracks. Use small steps, -25 microns at a time, wait to see the result of the change over a quarter inch, then once it looks good, let the layer finish and stop the print.
thanks for the circles. I converted them to code files using the standard settings in PrusaSlicer and have printed them
Hi, thanks for the circles. I converted them to code files using the standard settings in PrusaSlicer and have printed them
So what does the printed circle look like? Layer 1 is all that's important right now.
Sorry, I posted a reply with pictures. These 2 are with z settings of 700, 725,750 & 775
The next pics are with Z settings of 800,825,850,875
I think a value of around 850 appears to be right.
I’ve just started the calibration wizard again and it is snagging paper so I’m going to adjust the PINDA sensor down a little.
Having tried to repeat a calibration, it couldn’t find the positions. On further investigation I found the gear on the Y axis was loose. This has now been rectified, the PINDA sensor reset and 2 more circles printed.
I think the largest number is about right, the surface feels smooth, it looks like there isn’t any gaps, but I’d appreciate your view?
Tomorrow I’ll try printing the Prusa badge again after trying a slightly bigger number, maybe 880.
Using -0.875 looks okay to move forward with figuring out what's happening next. You might want to select the 7x7 mesh level option under settings:mesh level, too.
Try printing the badge again, and assuming layer one looks good like the discs, take a photo while layer three is printing. Need to see layer 2 and how it is adhering to layer 1, and how layer 3 is going down.