[Solved] First print textured sheet print peeling
I just got a new i3 MK3S+ kit, assembled with no real problems. I've been trying to print the test prusa logo that comes on the SD card (using the PLA in the box), but on the right side of the print I keep getting varying amounts of peeling. At first the peeling was bad enough to make the print fail, but after a good cleaning and raising the PINDA slightly (my Live Z was at something like -1.5mm)It has gotten better. I tried using the paper check to set the live Z but this was way too high and caused a print fail. There are pictures shown in the printing handbook with how the extruded line is supposed to look, but with how small the line printed is in Z calibration it's basically impossible for me to tell if it is correct.
Should I just keep incrementing live Z down until the print sticks all the way, or am I going about this the wrong way?
PLA and the Prusa texture sheet are incompatible without a lot of fuss. Pick up a spool of PETG and try printing that on the textured sheet - you will be happier. Soap and water - scrubbing the textured sheet thoroughly with a Dawn/Fairy detergent, and then rinsing for a few minutes in the hottest water you can seems to help with PLA adhesion on the textured sheet. But, after soap and water - dry the sheet then bake in on the printer at 80c for 15 minutes before printing (dries out the texture).
As for Live Z --- use a larger test pattern, like the Prusa logo. It gives you time to actually make and see adjustments. And you want the texture fully filled for PLA to stick the best.
The prusa knowledge base says that PLA is compatible with the powder coated sheet, as does the 3d printing guide that comes in the box. Also, I am using the prusa logo test print that comes on the SD card.
Yeah - and Prusa says their bearing come pre-lubricated (they don't). Prusa makes a great printer, but they are just overly optimistic and either confused or being mislead about other details.
If you doubt my words, do yourself a favor and search through the Mk3 forum for posts regarding the textured sheet. You'll discover for yourself just how many people have decided to use the Prusa textured sheet only with higher temp materials like PETG ... and have purchased non-Prusa textured sheets for PLA. Though, you will find a few posts where users say they print PLA on the Prusa sheet without issue. So it may be a batch to batch variable.
As a data point with textured sheets - I bought a non-Prusa sheet to print PLA, and it works; whereas the Prusa sheet doesn't.
And - oh by the way - being a bit snarky here 😲 : how is printing PLA on that Prusa textured sheet working out for ya???
I will have to contact support then, as I chose the textured sheet because it listed compatibility with materials I was most likely to use.
As for the bearings, they came nicely oiled for me.
I have successfully printed the Prusa Logo on a Prusa textured sheet using the PLA I got with the printer kit a month or two ago. But, have since bought a Prusa smooth sheet that I use now for PLA only.
Using the textured sheet with PLA was, at best, iffy.... On prints, like the Prusa logo with a fairly large plate contact surface and very low height it worked fine. But, I could NOT print a successful Benchie with it. The Benchie would always break off during the print. The smooth plate fixed that. The bed adhesion was simply not good enough using PLA on the Prusa textured sheet.
So now, I use the textured sheet only for PETG. I use the smooth sheet only for PLA.
So do you have recommendations or are you just gonna leave it at it worked for you.
Scrub a dub dub, three men in a tub...
I wash my textured build plates in the kitchen sink, with a little dish soap, a lot of hot water and a lot of rubbing with a new kitchen sponge, then I rinse well with fresh hot water, and dry immediately with plain paper towels.
next I print PLA without an enclosure, and with the bed temperature in the region 65 to 70 centigrade.
And PLA Sticks...
I do a step wise approach:
- Clean with IPA
- If fails, clean with soap and water and scratch proof scrubber
- If fails, reassess Z offset or Live Z
I’ve found an ok solution, all my prints stick perfectly if I use a brim. This seems to make sense since the first layer would always be perfect but the layers after that would start peeling, probably due to shrinkage. The brim prevents any shrinkage. I’l just have to stick to using a brim until I can get some PETG and a smooth plate.