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Complete E3D V6 hot end replacement test print - stringing  

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AXG68K
(@axg68k)
Eminent Member
Complete E3D V6 hot end replacement test print - stringing

Hi, can you guys please critique this test print  please.  It is Prusament PETG.  I used the recommended settings.  Looks decent except for the excessive oozing and stringing.   I just replaced my entire hot end. 

Before I print again with more retract, I would like some experienced eyes on this print.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/ksnpXRkVUbgp4qH5A

Thanks!

 

Bellow are the settings used - Default settings when selecting MK3S, Prusament PETG, .4mm nozzle and .2 Quality.

 

; generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-12-31 at 04:29:15 UTC

;

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.45mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.45mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.42mm

M73 P0 R333
M73 Q0 S336
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E5000 ; sets maximum accelerations, mm/sec^2
M203 X200 Y200 Z12 E120 ; sets maximum feedrates, mm/sec
M204 P1250 R1250 T1250 ; sets acceleration (P, T) and retract acceleration (R), mm/sec^2
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E1.50 ; sets the jerk limits, mm/sec
M205 S0 T0 ; sets the minimum extruding and travel feed rate, mm/sec
M107
M862.3 P "MK3S" ; printer model check
M862.1 P0.4 ; nozzle diameter check
M115 U3.8.1 ; tell printer latest fw version
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S240 ; set extruder temp
M140 S85 ; set bed temp
M190 S85 ; wait for bed temp
M109 S240 ; wait for extruder temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0.0
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
M73 Q0 S336
M73 P0 R333
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
M221 S95
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
M900 K45 ; Filament gcode
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
G92 E0.0
;0.2

Posted : 02/01/2020 1:10 am
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
RE: Complete E3D V6 hot end replacement test print - stringing

Have you re-run PID tune at your PETG temp and recalibrated xyz? Go easy on retraction. I recommend calibrating your slicer filament settings, particularly the extrusion multiplier, first. Retraction and related settings are work-arounds for over-extrusion. Reduce over-extrusion and you reduce the need for work-arounds. Calibrating Linear Advance for each filament also helps. After spending some time on this, I can use 0.4mm retraction, 0.4mm z-lift, and no wiping. Drying filament can also help with stringing, particularly with PETG. 

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing

and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Posted : 02/01/2020 3:29 am
AXG68K
(@axg68k)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Complete E3D V6 hot end replacement test print - stringing

Thanks for the advice. Will re-calibrate ASAP.

Posted : 02/01/2020 3:31 am
Ken G.
(@ken-g)
Eminent Member
RE: Complete E3D V6 hot end replacement test print - stringing

I have noticed when I have PETG stringing my temperature is usually off (too high) try printing a temperature calibration tower and see maybe the new hot end behaves differently than the old one.

Posted : 04/01/2020 4:29 pm
AXG68K
(@axg68k)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Complete E3D V6 hot end replacement test print - stringing

The extrusion multiplier was spot on.  The temp tower is printing, but it is also looking good except for the random burnt blob. Will dry filament, this one is old  and is probably fairly wet. 

Thanks.

Posted : 09/01/2020 7:17 am
gnat
 gnat
(@gnat)
Noble Member
RE: Complete E3D V6 hot end replacement test print - stringing

I had similar issues when I had to rebuild my extruder (wrench slipped off the block during a nozzle change and bent the heatbreak). The only original part when I was done was the heatsink. I did, however, change from the aluminum block to a copper block from E3D.

I finally got it mostly under control by printing (PLA) at 10 degrees less than I had previously done. I never found the root cause though and eventually after awhile it started to get worse again.

Someone suggested that it might be filament coming out around the nozzle, but I saw no sign of that. I finally removed my sock and happened to print with a different color (white) and the problem became clear that it was indeed coming out around the nozzle. The low stick properties of the block and sock were just making it non-obvious with my normal colors (natural and black) even when I removed the sock. When I checked the nozzle tightness back then (probably 500 hours between the rebuild and finally fixing it) it seemed properly tight (I now think I checked too cold). This time when I ran it up to temp per Prusa's nozzle change instructions I found the nozzle was so loose I didn't even need to hold the block with my wrench. Since replacing the nozzle I have had no more string or blob issues and have started going back to the default temps.

So my advice is to follow Prusa's nozzle change instructions and verify that the nozzle is seated properly. If that doesn't help you might also try pulling the extruder out and make sure that the heatbreak is properly seated too.

MMU tips and troubleshooting
Posted : 09/01/2020 10:05 am
AXG68K
(@axg68k)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Complete E3D V6 hot end replacement test print - stringing

the layer issues were caused by a very loose table. 

The oozing was mostly wet filament.  It is still oozing a bit printing PETG but not even close to before the filament was "dried" with a space heater for a day. 

 

Will check for oozing around the nozzle soon. Thanks for the help, almost all issues resolved.

 

 

This post was modified 4 years ago by AXG68K
Posted : 12/01/2020 9:21 am
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