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Can't Correctly Adjust PINDA  

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akerezy
(@akerezy)
Eminent Member
Can't Correctly Adjust PINDA

Hi,

 My Z axis setting is 0.000 which means I can only adjust it one way; to raise up the nozzle, but I need to LOWER the nozzle (aka make the Z axis value a more positive or larger number)    🤬 

 

Z Axis Too High

 

See my Z axis setting:

Can't Adjust Z Axis - it's INITIAL setting is zero

 

SooOoooooOOo.....somebody suggested I adjust my PINDA (move it up higher, further away from the build plate). But sadly, and frustratingly - you can ONLY adjust the PINDA an entire thread up or down - as shown, and is clear from these pictures. I adjusted it an entire thread up......then when I did, during the X,Y, Z calibration the nozzle grabs the paper, which it IS NOT supposed to.

Poor PINDA Adjustment Design

 

I am soOOOOooOOoo frustrated - Why isn't there a BETTER adjustment for the PINDA?  The electric cable soldered at the top prevents you from moving it freely 1/4 of a thread turn, which is what I need.

The INITIAL Z-axis starting point must be some negative number, and mine is exactly 0.000 which means I can not adjust it more positive or lower the nozzle. The only way to change the initial Z-axis number is to adjust the PINDA, correct?

Any suggestions ?

Frustrated in Filly

Posted : 19/01/2020 9:31 pm
rmm200
(@rmm200)
Noble Member
RE: Can't Correctly Adjust PINDA

Set the PINDA like the manual says. Lower the nozzole to the build plate and stick a piece of zip tie under the PINDA.

Lower the PINDA until it touches the zip tie. Now tighten the clamp and forget about it. Where it is is fine.

Setup and Calibrate, again like the manual says. Z values will always be negative, likely -.750 to -1.100.

The firmware will not even allow positive numbers on Z.

Watch this; it may help you:

 

Posted : 19/01/2020 11:53 pm
akerezy
(@akerezy)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Can't Correctly Adjust PINDA

@robert-rmm200

Robert - Appreciate your help

you don't get it - zip tie or no zip tie -  you have no actual FINE ADJUSTMENTS on the PINDA. Yeah I did the zip tie thing - you can move the PINDA

  • up one ENTIRE thread
  • down one ENTIRE thread

.....that's all you got...........  terrible design. There should be a FINE adjustment to the PINDA that move is 1/4 of a thread up or down - to be honest. You'll probably see that in future versions.

What I did was this - I found there is a separate z-axis adjustment in the menu items and I used that.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So I got it - not by following the directions, but by using this z-axis ajdustment

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

So now.... here's where I'm at and what is happening. I print a part - and the part prints to about 50%, I always include a brim ------ no problem, everything is great, then at around 50%, the part comes off the build plate, (but not until it's been printing about 50% of the way done).

 

What are the best brim settings?

 

Any Suggestions?

Thanks in Advance!!

Posted : 20/01/2020 12:50 am
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
RE: Can't Correctly Adjust PINDA

Just to eliminate the obvious: Have you completed a Live-Z calibration? Sounds like that the fine adjustment you're looking for, and I don't see anywhere in your description that you've done it. Negative numbers in Live-Z lower the nozzle incrementally towards the bed.

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan...
Posted : 20/01/2020 1:14 am
akerezy
(@akerezy)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Can't Correctly Adjust PINDA

@bobstro

 

Thank you

 

Yes - I did a live Z calibration. Initially - the problem, as explained above, was that my Z value was 0.000 and as you know, there is/was no room for adjustment with this Z value. Thus - I needed to adjust the PINDA first, in order to get the Z value to a slightly negative number, where I can actually adjust it (either a little more positive or negative). With a Z value of 0.000 - which is what it was to start after my initial setup, and my initial X, Y, Z calibration - there's no room for positive adjustment (to move the nozzle closer to the build plate), I could only move it more negative (further away from the build plate).

 

However......after going into the settings and offsetting or adjust the Z value by itself.....then, I came back and did a live Z calibration, and now my starting Z value was -0.2 something, which gives some room for both positive and negative adjustment.

Thanks

 

Posted : 20/01/2020 3:37 am
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
RE: Can't Correctly Adjust PINDA
Posted by: @akerezy

[...] Yes - I did a live Z calibration. Initially - the problem, as explained above, was that my Z value was 0.000 and as you know, there is/was no room for adjustment with this Z value. Thus - I needed to adjust the PINDA first, in order to get the Z value to a slightly negative number

Well... when you 1st reset the printer, the Live-Z setting should be 0. You can do the same thing in the hardware menu under the build plate selection option. This 0 represents your PINDA's detection distance and will be the zip tie measurement comes in. That is 0. If you move the PINDA and repeat, 0 will move up or down. The PINDA has no other sense of 0. Moving the PINDA physically up and down will not "change" 0, merely where the PINDA probe detects 0.

When you do Live-Z calibration, you are applying a negative offset (negative value) to incrementally lower the 0 point. If 0 is a zip tie thickness above the build plate, lowering Live-Z (making it more negative) will lower the nozzle incrementally. From what you're describing, this sounds exactly like what you're trying to do.

Typically, you only physically raise or lower the PINDA if it is so high the nozzle hits the bed, or so high you have to apply a huge negative Live-Z value to get any sort of 1st layer adhesion.

The PRUSA does not need the PINDA (or bed) raised or lowered like most other printers once you have it assembled correctly. The Live-Z calibration will provide a good range of adjustment downwards.

I hope this makes sense. You seem to be describing a manual 1st layer nozzle gap adjustment as is done on cheaper printers, and it's simply not necessary. Sorry if I've misunderstood anything.

 

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan...
Posted : 20/01/2020 4:53 am
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