Calibration XYZ failed  

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laura.a4
(@laura-a4)
New Member

Hi,

I´m working on a mk3s, and I´m having problems with the XYZ calibration, the problem is when it tries to detect point 1 of 4 on bed, the error is "xyz calibration failed. bed calibration point was not found", do you know anything about it?

Posted : 09/06/2019 8:26 am
Vojtěch
(@vojtech-3)
Honorable Member

Well yes, assuming you're testing without the flex PEI sheet, as the printer requests, this is usually a result of incorrect assembly. Most often, the wires going from the motor and the fan stick out too much to the side and the printer cannot move the extruder all the way left. This causes the home [0,0] position to be shifted and then the printer is looking for the calibration point in the wrong place. It can also be a similar problem on the Y axis. Check that both the X and Y axis can move freely and in full range, remove any obstacles, and then re-start the test and calibration wizard.

This post was modified 2 years ago 2 times by Vojtěch
Posted : 09/06/2019 9:16 am
laura.a4
(@laura-a4)
New Member

Thanks for the answer. We have check the wires, the axis... everything seems ok. Now we are in the step 2 of 4 calibration, and the nozzle take the paper and broke, so i need to stop the printer 3D. 

Posted : 09/06/2019 12:02 pm
Vojtěch
(@vojtech-3)
Honorable Member

Great, that's progress. Your next problem is solved easily: Move the PINDA probe lower in its mount. Only barely above the height of the tip of the nozzle (0.3mm).

Posted : 09/06/2019 4:16 pm
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(@-2)
Illustrious Member

Another issue with catching the paper is the X-Axis is not level.  Check to make sure the nozzle clearance is the same as the extruder moves across the bed, left to right.  You adjust for this by turning only ONE of the Z-Axis lead screws.  The manual has the full procedure.

If the nozzle grabs the paper when moving the bed back and forth, then the frame is not square and you need to determine why.  A poorly built frame will cause many printing troubles and will be flagged later in the cal process, and probably in bed leveling, too.  

 

If you lower the PINDA to compensate , as Voj suggests, you risk having the PINDA crash into parts that you print.  The PINDA should be 1.1 mm higher than the nozzle tip.  It really isn't the right way to work around build problems.

 

It is always wise to get more than one opinion... as for trusting Prusa? No way man....
Posted : 09/06/2019 7:28 pm
Vojtěch
(@vojtech-3)
Honorable Member
Posted by: Tim

If you lower the PINDA to compensate , as Voj suggests, you risk having the PINDA crash into parts that you print.  The PINDA should be 1.1 mm higher than the nozzle tip.  It really isn't the right way to work around build problems.

The 1.1mm distance has never worked for me, even when I built the printer the first time, paistakingly square. Neither did the 'ziptie' trick. I guess the sensor I got isn't as sensitive as some others. But yes, if there's warping, the lower the sensor is, the bigger risk of hitting the print, so finding a position that's as high as possible and still working well (the nozzle not hitting the bed during calibration) is a good approach.

Posted : 09/06/2019 7:45 pm
Vojtěch
(@vojtech-3)
Honorable Member
Posted by: Tim

Another issue with catching the paper is the X-Axis is not level.  Check to make sure the nozzle clearance is the same as the extruder moves across the bed, left to right.  You adjust for this by turning only ONE of the Z-Axis lead screws.  The manual has the full procedure.

It should be noted, though, that the printer aligns the two screws during XYZ and Z calibration by hitting the X assembly against the top mounts of the Z rods. Turning one of the screws may provide only a temporary solution if the top mounts are not level or if there are any obstacles that make the either the left or right side of the X assembly hit the Z ends sooner.

Turning one screw may help if the X assembly is way too off (followed by Z calibration), but repeated Z calibrations will achieve the same.

Posted : 09/06/2019 7:50 pm
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(@-2)
Illustrious Member
Posted by: Vojtěch
Posted by: Tim

If you lower the PINDA to compensate , as Voj suggests, you risk having the PINDA crash into parts that you print.  The PINDA should be 1.1 mm higher than the nozzle tip.  It really isn't the right way to work around build problems.

The 1.1mm distance has never worked for me, even when I built the printer the first time, paistakingly square. Neither did the 'ziptie' trick. I guess the sensor I got isn't as sensitive as some others. But yes, if there's warping, the lower the sensor is, the bigger risk of hitting the print, so finding a position that's as high as possible and still working well (the nozzle not hitting the bed during calibration) is a good approach.

99% of users find the standard process to work without fail.

It is always wise to get more than one opinion... as for trusting Prusa? No way man....
Posted : 09/06/2019 8:04 pm
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(@-2)
Illustrious Member

Voj - most of us don't need to reengineer the printer to be happy. It works fine as designed.  Sure, there are improvements that can be made, but is it wise to tell new users they need to modify every nut and bolt when all they want to do is make a first print?

In the XYZ process, the first steps are to manually align X to the bed.  Yes cal does that, but the first manual step is to prevent damage. Preflight page 1.  Some users pass by this step without realizing how important it is.

https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/9.+Preflight+check/1053?lang=en

 

As for the top supports being off square, the tolerances are quite precise and it's usually unseated Y rods that cause X-axis/bed alignment issues in later steps.  But telling new users to make modifications to overcome build problems is just Rube-Goldbergish.

 

 

 

It is always wise to get more than one opinion... as for trusting Prusa? No way man....
Posted : 09/06/2019 8:21 pm
John~T liked
John~T
(@johnt)
Eminent Member

"XYZ calibration failed. Bed calibration point was not found."
= Printer was unable to perfectly pinpoint the initial calibration point.

My error is occuring at cal point #2 before the nozzle/pinda gets even close to paper. 

Frame skew is right on and wire harnesses are clear and not binding/touching anything.

Posted : 09/07/2019 3:17 am
Sink
 Sink
(@sink)
Estimable Member

For me, I had this problem when I upgraded one of my printers from MK3 to MK3S, and it was my build error of course. 

To diagnose.. I took the steel plate off and ran an "auto-home" under the calibration menu as directed by support via the online chat.

My PINDA was not in the center of the first circle, it was a good 2 cm off and there was the problem. The case then became finding the reason.

For me it was the wires hitting against the Einsy board case .. Once that was fixed , all went fine from there..

Worth a try .. Just try the auto-home and see how the PINDA lines up with the center hole, take the steel plate off first.. Good Luck

P.S. I have 5 of these Prusas now, and just ordered 6th during sale,  and have never had to modify anything, just an occasional parts  or Firmware update. I get a model tuned in and just print.. They have been a pleasure to use..

This post was modified 2 years ago 2 times by Sink
Design on Fusion, print on Prusa...
Posted : 09/07/2019 3:59 am
John~T liked
Sink
 Sink
(@sink)
Estimable Member

Oops .. meant off  mm  not cm .. 

Design on Fusion, print on Prusa...
Posted : 09/07/2019 4:40 am
Sembazuru
(@sembazuru)
Prominent Member

As far as the height of the bottom of the PINDA vs the bottom of the nozzle, I found this on Thingiverse from BunnyScience (our very own guy.k2):

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3555647

There, he and his bunnies determined 0.8mm difference (see the summary on the Thingiverse page).

For the guys who are having errors, where is the PINDA relative (in x and y) to the printed copper circle of the heater bed? (You may have to be very careful and quick with the safety paper to keep it under the nozzle tip while still able to see the relief of the copper features under the soldermask where the PINDA is.)

See my (limited) designs on:
PrusaPrinters - https://www.prusaprinters.org/social/1448-sembazuru/prints
Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/Sembazuru/designs...
Posted : 09/07/2019 4:43 am
John~T liked
John~T
(@johnt)
Eminent Member
Posted by: gary.s4

For me, I had this problem when I upgraded one of my printers from MK3 to MK3S, and it was my build error of course. 

To diagnose.. I took the steel plate off and ran an "auto-home" under the calibration menu as directed by support via the online chat.

My PINDA was not in the center of the first circle, it was a good 2 cm off and there was the problem. The case then became finding the reason.

For me it was the wires hitting against the Einsy board case .. Once that was fixed , all went fine from there..

Worth a try .. Just try the auto-home and see how the PINDA lines up with the center hole, take the steel plate off first.. Good Luck

P.S. I have 5 of these Prusas now, and just ordered 6th during sale,  and have never had to modify anything, just an occasional parts  or Firmware update. I get a model tuned in and just print.. They have been a pleasure to use..

When I home XYZ the PINDA is about half the circle off towards the stop, not inwards and error occurs at Point 2 above the bed.

Posted : 09/07/2019 3:36 pm
Sink
 Sink
(@sink)
Estimable Member

You have the problem.. The PINDA should be in the circle, not half a circle off. That is why it will not calibrate.. Mine went thru same thing and failed at point 4, but it was off at point one., also about half the circle out. Something maybe stopping it from going all the way left. Check your cables and/or tie knots are not stopping the extruder from going all the way left and therefore missing the circle. 

 

Design on Fusion, print on Prusa...
Posted : 09/07/2019 3:40 pm
Sink
 Sink
(@sink)
Estimable Member

If you said half a circle off to the left of the circle then it is not the cables but something else.. If it half a circle off to the right of the circle, then look for a blockage. Try the chat support in the eShop and see if they can guide to find the problem causing if it is left of the circle.. 

This post was modified 2 years ago by Sink
Design on Fusion, print on Prusa...
Posted : 09/07/2019 3:42 pm
John~T liked
John~T
(@johnt)
Eminent Member

Apparently a Ty~Rap was touching enclosure, black on black and my visual impairment missed it.

Lowered PINDA to .5 mm and added some "Bling" Ty~Raps and ran cal.  Successful.

Raised PINDA back to 1mm (for Josef) and ran again with success.

Thank you all for the positive suggestions.

 

Posted : 09/07/2019 5:23 pm
Sink
 Sink
(@sink)
Estimable Member

Hey .. Super .. Congrats! 

Happy Printing..

Design on Fusion, print on Prusa...
Posted : 09/07/2019 6:25 pm
John~T liked
John~T
(@johnt)
Eminent Member

Had to go back down to .7mm after repeated random cal errors occurred. Oh and replacement IR Sensor turned out bad also so I consulted my Anger Management handler at VA and he suggested go ahead and print and calm down.  

Posted : 12/07/2019 4:32 pm
plevin
(@plevin)
New Member

I am just at the XYZ fails, not able to locate bed calibration point. The axes move all the way side-to-side, I’ve raised/lowered/tested the pinda sensor. I’ve started it at all the way left. It seems to move around the circle but then just fails. I don’t have any excellent ideas about what to try next.. any idea what one could do? Not putting the metal sheet on. Updated firmware. Nothing catching wires. 

 

Frustrating!

Posted : 27/07/2019 6:41 am
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