Jamminng/ Having to unload and reload for DND mini  

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travis.d4
(@travis-d4)
Active Member

Hey gang, I'm having trouble 3D Printing this allosaurus I'd like to use to have a Jurassic Park themed questline, and my Prusa Mk2.5S is loaded with White PLA I got from Filaments.ca, and so far it's great! But when it comes to retractions, it becomes a huge pain in the butt. I've tried reducing the retractions up to 4mm and that didn't work, so I tried reducing down to 3mm, 2mm, and even .5mm and somewhere along the lines it starts making that typical 'TK TK TK TK' noise of filament not able to come through.

However, if I pause it, unload it it, trim it and feed it again, it can keep going, but I want my prints to not have these continual moments of possible failure if I gotta step away.

Right now here's my settings.

0.1
5% inf
25/30mms speeds
2mm retraction
Retraction wipe
retraction on layer change.

Anyone think they can help fix this trouble I have with retractions with such items?

This topic was modified 4 weeks ago by travis.d4
Posted : 09/07/2020 11:23 pm
travis.d4
(@travis-d4)
Active Member

Sorry I couldn't edit it, but  my temperature is at 200 degress, I am trying 195 right now and so far so good..

Posted : 09/07/2020 11:51 pm
travis.d4
(@travis-d4)
Active Member

Nope still failures.. *facepalms*

Posted : 10/07/2020 12:48 am
SapperDoc
(@sapperdoc)
New Member

TLDR: Try increasing your temperature or using an included profile to see if the problem continues

I was having the same problems, as well as a lot of stringing, so I went back to the drawing board. I tend to use Filamentum or Prusament as I'm just not up to dealing with the irregularities I've dealt with from other brands... with that said, I recently decided to go back to the profiles included in PrusaSlicer. I was amazed to see that while I was following a lot of the advice to print at lower temps, that was wrong. I'm printing most PLA at 205-215 now with no problems at all. I printed several minis in the last few weeks with no issues at all. Hope this helps.

I also watched this guy's video and am getting better stuff than he shows in his video

Posted : 15/07/2020 6:17 pm
nikolai.r
(@nikolai-r)
Noble Member

Keep your retraction settings default at 0.8 and bump up the nozzle temp. Speed of 20-40mm/s is fine but I assume it slows down anyway to 5-10mm/s because of the small part. If this is a case, then you can bump up the minimum speed to 15mm/s to get faster filament flow.

Beside of that you can also try to point a big fan towards the printer to get overall better cooling on the extruder/part.

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Posted : 15/07/2020 7:04 pm
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member

You might also try reducing fan speed if you have cooling enabled. No sense cranking up nozzle temps only to offset them with part cooling. This will help keep overall temperatures down.

Overall, be sure you have good airflow around the extruder vents. Remember, the E3D V6 hotend is air cooled. If ambient temps around the hotend exceed 40C/104F, the efficiency of the cooling drops off and you can start to have heat creep issues as heat works up into the cold zone and prematurely melts filament, which can cause exactly the symptoms you're seeing (jams & extruder clicks/skip/jams). This is particularly an issue with PLA.

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Posted : 15/07/2020 7:38 pm
travis.d4
(@travis-d4)
Active Member

Thank you everyone for all your great suggestions. 

However one thing I did forget to mention is that I am also using one of those silicone cover heads for my 3D Printed to prevent any stuff from sticking to the nozzle, and I am fearful that could be also insulating to much heat possibly..

Anyways, it seems like this problem is not entirely caused by printing a dnd mini, I am also trying to print this 6 inch long Nissan Versa model, and it's a fairly good sized print, but even doing a large object I was getting those darn clickings again.

So I tried keeping my temps a bit lower around 205/210, turned my fan speed to 100%
I also eased up on the extruder gear tightness, realized it was a little over-tightened, and now I have even dropped the bed temp down to 50 degrees just to see if that passing of temperature from bed to nozzle could be an issue by some means

I have also tried decreasing the retraction down to 1.5mm for this larger print when I started at 2mm and right now after such tweaking I'm waiting to see if it's made a difference 

Posted : 16/07/2020 11:01 pm
travis.d4
(@travis-d4)
Active Member

Yeah still clicked and plugged..... I decided to crank up the temp to 215 cause I do not know what Filamentum is all about when they say it should be printable between 190 to 210 degrees. My cooling is between 90% to 100% bed temp is 50 degrees, using Royal Blue PLA by Filamentum. I fear it may be because of this E3D PRO silicone sock I have on my printer, but honestly my guess is probably wrong at this point. At this point just ready to trash this old Mk2.5S, I don't understand why this has become such a persistent issue when I've had lots of successful prints with it up until lately.

This post was modified 3 weeks ago by travis.d4
Posted : 16/07/2020 11:18 pm
travis.d4
(@travis-d4)
Active Member

I can't help but wonder at this point, if it could be that having my cooling at 100% might actually be cooling the filament too much inside the nozzle, cause each time I reload it, it seems like the tip has just built up and gotten more bulbous inside until it seems almost like it'd certainly be too big to fit through the nozzle even if it's just by a little bit. Perhaps it could be my cooling then?

Posted : 16/07/2020 11:22 pm
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