MK2S --> MK2.5 --> MK2.5S (today) Can't calibrate as the print head wont get off the heat-bed.
 
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[Solved] MK2S --> MK2.5 --> MK2.5S (today) Can't calibrate as the print head wont get off the heat-bed.  

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DrakoTrogdor
(@drakotrogdor)
Active Member
MK2S --> MK2.5 --> MK2.5S (today) Can't calibrate as the print head wont get off the heat-bed.

Originally got the MK2S kit, worked great.  Upgraded to the MK2.5, worked great.  Today I upgraded to the MK2.5S and updated the firmware to MK2.5S v3.8.0 and it literally wont stop hitting the heat bed during homing or calibration.  First I tried having the PINDA at the recommended one zip-tie above the manually leveled print head.  I've tried lowering the PINDA to just above the bottom of the print head (like 3 sheets of paper instead of 1 for the head).  I've tried raising the PINDA to about 3mm.  I've tried everywhere in between.  I've tried resetting the calibration in case it was doing something weird from the previous firmware.  I've even tried Googling it.  The only thing I've been able to find is some people saying something about using the MK2.5 firmware to calibrate, then change to the MK2.5S afterwards (that sounds hellish).  One time it almost worked, but then there was a clicking sound when it was at the back left corner so I de-powered the printer.  Figured it was a zip-tie hitting the heat-bed wiring cover, so I removed that, and voila...back to hitting the heat bed.  All this is done without the steel sheets on the bed.  I've started the wizard a bunch of times and always make sure it's hitting the top of the Z-Axis on both sides.  X and Y end stops are working fine.  Bed is heating fine.  Print head is heating fine.  Both fans are working great.  The light on the PINDA is lighting.  I've cleaned and lubricated all rods and double checked all tensions.  I'm at a lose as to what this can be, but at this points I'm assuming it's something wrong with the firmware.  Any help would be appreciated.

Best Answer by DrakoTrogdor:

Fixed it by updating to the v3.8.1 RC1 firmware.  Not sure if it was due to a fix in the firmware, or if it had something to do with going from a MK2.5S to another MK2.5S firmware.

Been lurking since 2017/01/27... ԅ(≖‿≖ ;ԅ)

Posted : 20/10/2019 1:52 am
DrakoTrogdor
(@drakotrogdor)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: MK2S --> MK2.5 --> MK2.5S (today) Can't calibrate as the print head wont get off the heat-bed.

Fixed it by updating to the v3.8.1 RC1 firmware.  Not sure if it was due to a fix in the firmware, or if it had something to do with going from a MK2.5S to another MK2.5S firmware.

Been lurking since 2017/01/27... ԅ(≖‿≖ ;ԅ)

Posted : 20/10/2019 4:48 am
4estGimp
(@4estgimp)
Active Member
RE: MK2S --> MK2.5 --> MK2.5S (today) Can't calibrate as the print head wont get off the heat-bed.

I'm jumping in here as I've also upgraded from MK2 all the up to MK2.5S (at one time).   It was unusable with 2.7.2, and 2.8.0 firmware but is now.... almost acceptable with 2.8.1.  However, the extruder still takes several trips to the edge of the print bed and deposits a bit of filament upon return to the print item.  Have you experienced this?  Am I just a newb who doesn't know a standard setting to toggle in Prusaslicer?  Is this something just to edit in the gcode?

The pics from top to bottom are Firmware 2.7.2 ( I think), 2.8.0, 2.8.0, and 2.8.1.

Posted : 25/10/2019 12:32 am
4estGimp
(@4estgimp)
Active Member
RE: MK2S --> MK2.5 --> MK2.5S (today) Can't calibrate as the print head wont get off the heat-bed.

Bah - those firmware revisions should all start with "3", not "2". 

Posted : 25/10/2019 12:49 am
DrakoTrogdor
(@drakotrogdor)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: MK2S --> MK2.5 --> MK2.5S (today) Can't calibrate as the print head wont get off the heat-bed.

@harmon-l

I've also noted a lot of stringing and blobbing since upgrading, but I'm not sure if it's my filament or the printer.  When I get a chance I'm going to put my filament through my dehydrator and see if it helps.  I did increase the retraction a bit, and lowered the temp 5 degrees until I get off my butt to change out the current filament, and it has seemed to help.  The few prints I did get out I took an exacto knife, heat gun and needle file to in order to get rid of the blobs and strings.

Printable Scenery Deadly Traps on Original Prusa i3 MK2.5S

Stringing can be seen on the spikes and teeth.  there are also blobs on the teeth, and there is weird z-banding on the saw blade, but it might have to do with being printed at same time as the hungry maw.

Been lurking since 2017/01/27... ԅ(≖‿≖ ;ԅ)

Posted : 25/10/2019 6:19 pm
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