Upgraded parts to buy along side MK2 Kit?
 

Upgraded parts to buy along side MK2 Kit?  

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EsPEEEE
(@espeeee)
Active Member

Hi All - if I'm planning to get the kit are there any additional cost-effective upgraded parts (non-3d printed) that are worth purchasing at the same time, to add in while I'm building it the first time around? Cost effective meaning strong improvements in consistency/quality/noise/durability vs. $$.

For example, I've read on this forum about improved bearings & rods as potential low-cost upgrades ($30-50). However, even in that scenario the consensus seems to be that the printer will work fine with stock components, they just make it it a little quieter.

This would be my first personal 3D printer, but I've worked with a couple of Prusa style printers before - I've just never gotten into the nitty gritty of the quality of the components used in a build.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated. 😀

Suggestions offered in thread
Upgrades:

  • Igus RJ4JP-01-08 bearings (At least 3 for Y-bearings, 7 more if also replacing X & Z too)
    E3D V6 silicone socks
    Extra Hotend Nozzles (Various Sizes)
  • Spare Parts:

  • Orange ABS to print original prusa part files
    Extra Thermistor
  • ...
    Posted : 03/11/2016 4:53 pm
    PJR
     pjr
    (@pjr)
    Antient Member Moderator

    Personally, I think you should build the printer as is and exactly according to the instructions, use it for a month or so and then see what you think needs to be improved.

    Peter

    Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…...
    Posted : 03/11/2016 5:14 pm
    gary.b2
    (@gary-b2)
    New Member

    I haven't received my printer yet, but I have built RepRaps before.
    To prepare for the build, I did buy 10 Igus RJ4JP-01-08 bearings, a 3 pack of E3D V6 silicone socks, extra nozzles, an extra thermistor and an extra heating element.
    I just like to be prepared for the inevitable breakdowns, and might as well have the parts on hand now.
    If you don't already have a decent set of digital calipers, you might want to look into them. They will make squaring up the platform much easier.
    I forgot to mention, I also bought a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle, since I plan to try exotic filaments.

    ...
    Posted : 03/11/2016 7:47 pm
    EsPEEEE
    (@espeeee)
    Active Member

    @Gary - great suggestions, especially the hotend silicone socks - I haven't seen those before, but based on the information at E3D's site they make a lot of sense.

    @PJr - good advice, especially from a troubleshooting perspective it would be good to initially build with stock then work from there.

    ...
    Posted : 03/11/2016 8:15 pm
    matteo.s2
    (@matteo-s2)
    Trusted Member

    my suggestion would be to replace at least the Y bearings.

    ...
    Posted : 03/11/2016 8:44 pm
    erron.w
    (@erron-w)
    Estimable Member

    I haven't received my printer yet, but I have built RepRaps before.
    To prepare for the build, I did buy 10 Igus RJ4JP-01-08 bearings, a 3 pack of E3D V6 silicone socks, extra nozzles, an extra thermistor and an extra heating element.
    I just like to be prepared for the inevitable breakdowns, and might as well have the parts on hand now.
    If you don't already have a decent set of digital calipers, you might want to look into them. They will make squaring up the platform much easier.
    I forgot to mention, I also bought a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle, since I plan to try exotic filaments.

    Also make sure the first thing your print (once built) is a set of replacment 3d printed parts 🙂 always good to have on hand in case something breaks.

    Also, i wonder if Prusa is gonna start shipping the kits with the Socks (as new V6's you buy from e3d come with the sock ) unless They are buying them in bulk from E3D without the sock.

    ...
    Posted : 03/11/2016 9:52 pm
    gary.b2
    (@gary-b2)
    New Member

    Yeah, I also have some Hatchbox orange ABS. As soon as I dial in ABS printing, I will start on replacement parts, extruder first.

    ...
    Posted : 03/11/2016 10:06 pm
    EsPEEEE
    (@espeeee)
    Active Member

    On the IGUS DRYLIN® RJ4JP 01-08 bearings, it seems like the best solution is to use 3D printed compression parts to actually mount them, instead of the provided zip ties. Does that sound right, or should the zip ties be sufficient along?

    ...
    Posted : 04/11/2016 1:04 pm
    stephan.k
    (@stephan-k)
    Reputable Member

    On the IGUS DRYLIN® RJ4JP 01-08 bearings, it seems like the best solution is to use 3D printed compression parts to actually mount them, instead of the provided zip ties. Does that sound right, or should the zip ties be sufficient along?

    Igus themselves told us with RJ4JP the zip tie is sufficient. People keep confusing the grey RJ4JP with the brownish RJMP. RJMP require a press fit. RJ4JP don't.

    Now, having said that, MartinMajewski created these nice LM8UU clips here: http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-f14/lm8uu-ball-bearing-y-carriage-clips-t2122.html that i think are preferable to the zip tie mount and should fit RJ4JP as well.

    Posted : 04/11/2016 5:49 pm
    EsPEEEE
    (@espeeee)
    Active Member

    Thanks, Stephan for the clarification.

    I had seen Martin's post but didn't tie 2 & 2 together. In general, I like the idea of using the mounting clips, instead of zip ties.

    However, now I'm at a chicken and egg problem - can't print 3D printed parts without a 3D printer. :geek:

    ...
    Posted : 04/11/2016 6:09 pm
    EsPEEEE
    (@espeeee)
    Active Member


    Also, i wonder if Prusa is gonna start shipping the kits with the Socks (as new V6's you buy from e3d come with the sock ) unless They are buying them in bulk from E3D without the sock.

    I chatted with the online support about this. They have the socks, but based on testing they don't recommend using them. I also found information where they reference them in one of the support knowledge/faq articles. Citing that they have the potential to fall-off and ruin prints or ruin the printer. I think they also require a re-calibration of your PID before running new prints because of how the heat dissipation works.

    I went ahead and asked for one with my order. In concept, I like the idea of the sock and we'll see if my experience reflect that of Prusa's in house research.

    ...
    Posted : 05/11/2016 7:20 pm
    EsPEEEE
    (@espeeee)
    Active Member

    Is there a definitive stance on the use of stepping motor dampers, good or bad? Like these Astrosyn ones?

    http://www.ultibots.com/nema-17-damper-astrosyn-my17rmdamp/

    I saw MartinMajewski installed one on his y-axis motor and said he didn't notice any degradation in print quality. I've read mixed results else where that the dampening could result in the belt tension being slightly looser.

    Any reason not to install the damper on all 4 motors (x, y, & z)?

    ...
    Posted : 06/11/2016 3:05 am
    ayourk
    (@ayourk)
    Reputable Member

    Is there a definitive stance on the use of stepping motor dampers, good or bad? Like these Astrosyn ones?

    http://www.ultibots.com/nema-17-damper-astrosyn-my17rmdamp/

    I saw MartinMajewski installed one on his y-axis motor and said he didn't notice any degradation in print quality. I've read mixed results else where that the dampening could result in the belt tension being slightly looser.

    Any reason not to install the damper on all 4 motors (x, y, & z)?

    I've been using Dampers on my MK2's X-axis since my first print, then I developed a Y-axis motor mount that could handle them and put one on there too.

    Dimensions PNG and an 8 inch (200mm) or greater caliper is recommended....
    Posted : 06/11/2016 6:00 am
    MilanNXT
    (@milannxt)
    Active Member

    Did not found better place to post it.
    Made some updates to MK2 KIT parts to accommodate my old Prusa I3 printer.

    Rambo cover for Rambo 1.0a http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1873748

    ...
    Posted : 06/11/2016 12:44 pm
    stefan.s
    (@stefan-s)
    Active Member

    I haven't received my printer yet, but I have built RepRaps before.
    To prepare for the build, I did buy 10 Igus RJ4JP-01-08 bearings, a 3 pack of E3D V6 silicone socks, extra nozzles, an extra thermistor and an extra heating element.
    I just like to be prepared for the inevitable breakdowns, and might as well have the parts on hand now.
    If you don't already have a decent set of digital calipers, you might want to look into them. They will make squaring up the platform much easier.
    I forgot to mention, I also bought a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle, since I plan to try exotic filaments.

    Also make sure the first thing your print (once built) is a set of replacment 3d printed parts 🙂 always good to have on hand in case something breaks.

    Also, i wonder if Prusa is gonna start shipping the kits with the Socks (as new V6's you buy from e3d come with the sock ) unless They are buying them in bulk from E3D without the sock.

    That is actually a pretty good idea.
    Does anyone know what the original parts material is? I would assume it is ABS?

    ...
    Posted : 06/11/2016 11:05 pm
    Omikron
    (@omikron)
    Estimable Member

    I haven't received my printer yet, but I have built RepRaps before.
    To prepare for the build, I did buy 10 Igus RJ4JP-01-08 bearings, a 3 pack of E3D V6 silicone socks, extra nozzles, an extra thermistor and an extra heating element.
    I just like to be prepared for the inevitable breakdowns, and might as well have the parts on hand now.
    If you don't already have a decent set of digital calipers, you might want to look into them. They will make squaring up the platform much easier.
    I forgot to mention, I also bought a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle, since I plan to try exotic filaments.

    Also make sure the first thing your print (once built) is a set of replacment 3d printed parts 🙂 always good to have on hand in case something breaks.

    Also, i wonder if Prusa is gonna start shipping the kits with the Socks (as new V6's you buy from e3d come with the sock ) unless They are buying them in bulk from E3D without the sock.

    That is actually a pretty good idea.
    Does anyone know what the original parts material is? I would assume it is ABS?

    Yes, it's ABS due to the higher temp resistance.

    ...
    Posted : 11/11/2016 9:39 pm
    JohnnyricoMC
    (@johnnyricomc)
    Estimable Member

    I think it might be useful if Prusa Research were to publish the gcodes they use to print MK2 parts on their MK2 farm. That way we can print our spares exactly as they should be.

    ...
    Posted : 11/11/2016 10:52 pm
    chad.k
    (@chad-k)
    New Member


    That is actually a pretty good idea.
    Does anyone know what the original parts material is? I would assume it is ABS?

    Yes, it's ABS due to the higher temp resistance.

    I think the PSU cover and electronics cases are printed in a co-polyester (like PETG), though.

    ...
    Posted : 12/11/2016 4:18 am
    jon.m
    (@jon-m)
    Eminent Member

    I think it might be useful if Prusa Research were to publish the gcodes they use to print MK2 parts on their MK2 farm. That way we can print our spares exactly as they should be.

    If you import the .STL and export as G-Code this isn't the same? I am confused because I used their .STL files and made my own G-Code and printed them fine?! What are you referring to?

    ...
    Posted : 15/11/2016 6:37 pm
    Omikron
    (@omikron)
    Estimable Member

    I think it might be useful if Prusa Research were to publish the gcodes they use to print MK2 parts on their MK2 farm. That way we can print our spares exactly as they should be.

    If you import the .STL and export as G-Code this isn't the same? I am confused because I used their .STL files and made my own G-Code and printed them fine?! What are you referring to?

    Not quite. The STL simply defines the shape of the object. The GCODE defines how the object is made. How fast to move, how much plastic to extrude, what temperatures to use, etc.

    It is likely that PR has made tweaks to the files they use on the farm in order to make them print more reliably or consistently.

    ...
    Posted : 15/11/2016 6:47 pm
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