Multimaterial & Olsson Ruby issues
Hi, i'm having problems printing with the olsson ruby, i have a MK2s with a recent MMU, i have to print with some abbrasive filament in some cases so i bought this Olsson Ruby (0.4mm) from the Prusa e-Shop. the idea was to not have to change the nozzle if i print with normal PLA or these others materials.
i performed every tip i could found:
but i consistently get underextrusion (even feeding the filament manually i can feel more resistance to flow), and if i rise more the temperature i get lots of stringing.
if i switch to the normal brass nozzle it prints just fine. i cant get the solution but i read that some of you are printing well with the MMU and te Ruby nozzle.
here are 2 prints with exactly the same g-code (not chancging the extrusion multiplier or the hotend temp, in this case)
Please, what you think i should do or try? i live in Argentina and spend a lot of money buying this nozzle thinking it will be an improvement but as far as it goes i cant get a single print fine with it. thanks in advance! adn sorry for my english.
Re: Multimaterial & Olsson Ruby issues
Have a look at this thread: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-multi-material-f26/blockage-troubleshooting--t4643-s180.html#p46115 and the one a couple of posts later.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Multimaterial & Olsson Ruby issues
I have an MK3 with a 0.6 mm Olsson Ruby and I was also having the same under-extrusion issue. The comments on the original thread are helpful but did not help me as I was not using my MMU2. I was in the process of cleaning my clogged ruby ( at least I though it was clogged), when I had a strange thing happen. A brass sleeve fell out of the ruby nozzle. I always understood this to be a two piece design consisting of the brass nozzle with the ruby tip, but it is in fact a three piece design with a brass nozzle, the ruby tip, and a brass sleeve insert. I was dismayed to see that the makers of the ruby nozzle use yet another thermal interface in a place where it is not desirable to have one. The brass insert runs the full length of the inside of the brass nozzle, up to the back of the ruby insert. Instead of being a full length press fit it merely has a slightly larger diameter shoulder that is only 1/10 of the length of the sleeve that presses into a counterbore in the back of the nozzle. The rest of the sleeve is a loose fit in the nozzle. This means POOR thermal conduction in most of the melt zone. The 0.6 mm nozzle demands more thermal conductivity to deliver the extra heat required to melt the larger volume of plastic, so this is very problematic. Unless they changed this design in the last year, you may have the same issues.
It seems that in order to reduce the cost of manufacture, it was cheaper to mass produce the nozzle with a common large bore and then use an insert sized for the filament. This way the manufacturer could have a large inventory of a common part and press in the cheaper part to make it it either a 3mm or 1.75mm nozzle. Unfortunately the end result is a nozzle that does not seem to have the ability to pump the heat quickly to the melt zone because most of the length of this sleeve is barely touching the inside bore of the nozzle so the top ten percent of the sleeve furthest away from the ruby tip is trying to keep the entire nozzle hot. It just ain't gonna work.
So if you have been finding that your expensive 0.6 Ruby does not keep pace with your cheap run of the mill brass 0.6, you are not doing anything wrong, the nozzle is just not designed to transfer the heat the way it ought to. I am so disappointed because I have invested in two of these things, one is a 0.4 and the other is a 0.6.
I will add another post with photos and an explanation of how I improved the nozzle and got better results.
Steve Musante