How to print this vase
We tried to print this vase.
We had a straight line error going across the print
What could be the problem with the prusa mini that he makes this line?
I marked it with red arrows where it starts and ends
Also anybode have an idea to make the rhombuses on the bottom. how can i improve the shape that it is smooth without the bloops i marked with black arrow.
And also how to improve the line i marked with green arrows. it is the transition between the rhombus and the straight lines. The Line should not appear.
Sorry that the picture in white is not so clear. maybe you open the file with right click and in the original format. It is clearer then and bigger.
Thanks in advance for your help
Greetings to you all
nobody wants to help?
I heard some tip to avoid a kind of this but not sure it will work out not, eg. Decrease speed, make sure printer place on firm table.
I also face this problem with thin wall print it look like it a seam problem.(especially with round shape)
Try post again in general discussion, it more actively there.
thank you for your helpful answer. i will try out all the things you said.
I hope it will solve my problems with the print, though the print is difficult for 3d printing.
If it will not be fixed i will try to post in general dis. as you said.
have a nice day and thanks again!
if you could provide the STL, People might be more able to help.
the White model, looks to be wider than the orange image, This is likely to reduce chances of success as it will lower the angle of incidence of the opening.
The image is just wider because of the forum. if you right click and open the original image it is the same size.
I will upload STL File the in the first post.
Thanks for help.
Here the vase STL
for the next time zip the stl file then you should be able to insert it into you posting 🙂
Here is the ZIP
did not work either with zip file to attach file 🙁 the forum should be fixed a bit
That just contains the output gcode file. The only thing we can do with that is print it on a mini which is of limited usefulness.
To look at it properly we need at a minimum the stl file but preferably the saved project file. So go into slicer and Save Project As. This will save a .3mf file. The 3mf file will contain the model and all of your settings you are using to slice it. This makes debugging much much easier as its also possible to cjheck for any out of the ordinary stuff and we can also slice it and check the preview layers easily with the same settings you have been using.
That latest zip has the stl file in. Nothing else. What settings did you use to slice it with ? If you had included the project file (3mf) we would have all that really important information.
At least we can take a look at it now but its not ideal.
This is getting ridiculous. I now understand why you didn't attach your project file as requested. The gcode you linked to previously was generated from Cura, the preview image you used was from Prusa Slicer. One thing you can do with Slicer is import the settings used to generate a gcode file back into Slicer as it saves the main settings in the output gcode file. Because it was done in Cura that doesn't work.
Please pick a slicer and ask questions in the appropriate forums. If you are using Cura to slice it and are having issues then it really needs some Cura expertise, so ideally a Cura forum as there probably arent many Cura users here..
If you are using Prusa Slicer then you are far more likely to get help here as most users here will be using PS.
Slice it in Prusa Slicer, and save the project. Print it and see if you actually have issues with the gcode generated from Prusa Slicer on your mini . If you still have issues then you can come back and actually give us all the needed information to figure out what your actual issue is.
I asked how the vase is best to print.
We use both cura and prusa slicer.
For us it works better to use prusa slicer with our prusa mini and cura with the MK3. We printed the Vase on both printers.
I do not give you the 3mf because i want to ask YOU what YOU think as experts are the best settings to print it.
I used the files and pictures available so sorry for some of the missunderstandings.
We know how to print and we used several methodes over month but still the print doesnt look great
Please, for now i just need expertise for a little project.
If you have any ideas maybe how to adjust the vase to print it better you are free to give me your opinion
Thanks a lot to the whole forum <3
Any advice without the requested information is just guesses. Shots in the dark you understand ?
When sliced with Prusa Slicer do you get the issue on the same model printed on the MK3 ? or only on the mini
When sliced with Cura do you still get the issue on either your Mini or MK3 ?
The answers to those 2 questions would narrow it down to slicer or hardware, and if hardware is it one printer or both.
Its basic troubleshooting, you work out a series of test steps to eliminate as much of the possibilities as you can. Once you have narrowed it down its less work going through the remaining. This is why full information as to settings, print conditions, filaments used, ambient temps etc is all important as ANY of those could be having an impact.
With such vague information you get platitudes like "print slower", or "reduce the temperature". Basically pretty useless unless that just happens to be the real issue. I much prefer the methodical approach.
With that in mind - lines like that are generally down to several possibilities.
-Changes in perimeter wall/infill/gapfill in that area
-Changes in speed -the areas below that are printed in little islands so the printing speed is limited, when it gets to that level the speed increases. This is using the mini profile with a 0.15 profile. Prusa Slicer is known to have issues with bulges in walls when perimeters change. Slicer/Cura both having the issue would then tend to rule that out but thats an unknown from the information provided.
-The jagged edges on the diamonds looks like retraction issues. With the min being a bowden printer I would expect more problems there compared with printing on a MK3. It can take some careful tuning on a per filament basis to tune retraction on bowden systems.
-the thin line between your red arrows is hard to make out but it could be the seam. If you re-slice with the seam set to rear does the line then change to vertical rather than going at a diagonal ? With a slice preview you can turn on view retractions/un-retract which generally happen on seams so you can often tell easily where the layer seam is. If that location matches the diagonal on your actual print then you know its the seam. Once you know if it is then you can start looking at the various ways to minimise seams (which isnt easy anyway, even on direct drive machines and is harder on bowden setups)
Also before tackling specific models what basic calibration methods have you done ?
Have you calibrated your slicer settings for the actual average filament diameter ? Have you checked your extruder steps per mm ? What about extrusion multipliers by printing 1 or 2 wall thick calibration cubes ? Temperature towers for that filament to work out the best printing temp ?
See there could be potentially hundreds or thousands of factors that singly or combined could be causing your issues. I wish you luck in resolving your problem.
thank you for your great expertise. I will try to go through all of your points step by step. but i think this needs some time.
I will then try to print it again and see if it is working just fine.
Thank you so much for your help
by the way. where are you from? our team could need somebody like you, helping us with 3D prints.