Thermistor broken and stuck in heatblock so time to upgrade
 

Thermistor broken and stuck in heatblock so time to upgrade  

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Sp4rkR4t
(@sp4rkr4t)
Active Member

I was having issues with the printer being unable to keep temperature reliably resulting in oozing and under extrusion and as I took the hotend apart to have a look I noticed the thermistor cable was broken, unfortunately my attempts to get the thermistor and heater cartridge's out of the heat block have failed so I'm going to be replacing all of them, now with the extremely silly shipping costs due to brexit I can't justify buying the parts direct from Prusa so I'll be getting them from E3d which lead to the discovery of upgraded parts on their site namely the plated copper heaterblock, the high precision heater cartridge and the PT1000 temperature sensor.
Has anyone applied these upgrades to a Prusa Mini+, will I need to change firmware settings in each slice like I already have to do for the bondtech extruder and if so is there a custom firmware out there that keeps feature parity with Prusa but enables the M500 command to actually save these values on the printer like it should have always been able to do? Oh I also need confirming that the heater cartridge I would need is the 24v 40W version?

 

I realise it's a lot of questions but if I need to replace parts it may as well be with better ones.

Posted : 05/03/2021 11:17 am
Turro75
(@turro75)
Estimable Member

Hello,

stock firmware is set for this: 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2

in case You get another kind You should recompile the firmware by setting the right thermistor otherwise You can have more than 20deg gap from nominal-actual temperature. M500 is not available at the moment, anyway the thermistor setting is not exported as eeprom parameter.

Anyway the above is not mandatory, if You do a temperature tower you'll simply set the right temperature for current filament. For instance when I did it I got PETG printing at 210°c, afterwards I learned how to recompile the firmware so now I'm back to stock prusaslicer profiles.

Remember also that after reworking the hotend it is highly recommended redo the pid tuning by M303. 

Edit: heater cartridge 24V 40W is correct

This post was modified 1 month ago by Turro75
Posted : 06/03/2021 2:51 pm
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