V6 on Mini: Heat Creep?
Wera is my favorite, along with Knipex.
Knipex pliers I also have and in addition some German brands such as Weidmueller, Stubai and also Stahlwille, Gedore, etc..
You pay much more for them, but can use them for a lifetime. Above all, you have joy at work with good tools. Unfortunately, however, many people can not afford expensive tools and for this reason must probably find other solutions.
For this reason, my decision in the price sector "under 1000$) also fell on a Prusa printer 👍
What exactly do you use the split ring pliers for? They are often used in the jewelry industry.
Retaining rings for rocket motors. They hold the nozzles, propellant, and a forward bulk plate in a 29mm, 38mm, 54mm, 76mm, 98mm, or 152mm aluminum tube.
Very interesting, but I can't visualize it now, because I don't know anything about rocket building.
I picked up the Copper Paste you linked me to, and I have placed a new Heat Block and new Heat Break on my MINI, using the Copper Paste
Before I heat it up to 280 and tighten the nozzle a bit, I wanted to check some dimensions with you if I could ...
My gap between the Heat Block and Heat Sink is 5mm, and the distance from the top of the Heat Sink to the top of the Heat Block is 45mm ...Do those dimensions sync with your MINI too ? I still need to clean the paste off the Heat Break in the picture 😀
Unfortunately, I cannot compare the values because I have installed an E3D V6 hotend. In any case, it is important that the nozzle seals well against the heatbreak and that the hexagonal collar of the nozzle does not touch the heating block.
The gap size between the heating block and the heatsink depends on the length of the PTFE. It is best to read through these Prusa assembly instructions:
It is important that the PTFE is well chamfered and seals cleanly at the top (PTFE fitting) and bottom (heatsink) - (STEP 9-11).
I'm curious about that. I would like to build something in the size of approx. 30 cm with as much detail as possible. It doesn't necessarily have to be able to fly, but it should have a nice place in a 3D print collection.
Let me share a part that is a game-changer using the PC4 pneumatic couplings on Bowden tubes. The part that looks like a little C or Pac-Man is what you want to print and slide into the gap of the little locking mechanism and it never slips. I insert the PTFE tube, pull back the lock, and slide this in place.
I would post pictures but I am at work. I have a V6 installed on one of my Minis. It keeps jamming and when inspected the heatbreak, it was full of melted filament. The PTFE was in the right place. Any ideas what might cause this? I am going to take it apart and reinstall it.
Maybe the E3D V6 hotend works so well on my Mini because I use a nickel-plated copper heating block and a titanium heatbreak with TC nozzle. Same constellation as the MK3.
Das sieht ja interessant aus, gibt es auch STL bzw. .step dazu?
Das habe ich auch gesehen, aber mit was hast du es Kombiniert, einmal um das Hotend fest zu machen und der Bauteillüfter vorn?
If you refer to my Mini - it's original from Prusa, only now some things are modified (extruder, hotend, x-end, buddy case, sensors, bearings, firmware, picam, raspi ....) and all parts are reprinted. For testing the firmware a board from Fysetc is mounted.
I had published my designs for a while. Many people copied that. Due to countless requests (and also complaints) I stopped the project development, because I am working full time (community support worker in technical education) and can't spend the time for it anymore.