Prusa Mini Clone from China  

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Fernando T
(@fernando-t)
Eminent Member

@nikomi-2

What do you mean? If you flash the new firmware 4.3?
I don't have the bond tech extruder though, or do you mean the heatbreak?
Anyway, if you are replying to my inquiry about the e-steps if you change the heatbreak to an all metal one how can that be fixed by using a alen Key between the x and z? I think you will have to adjust things accordingly and setup the firmware.

If you are referring to the x gantry to build plate skew (shown on my bed level visualiser) then I think I heb to fix it with some shimming as just tilting the electronics case a bit already has a huge improvement.

If you are referring to the firmware, if things fail and do not work as supposed I will downgrade as I am actually not unhappy with the version I am running and will wait until a fix comes along.

Posted : 15/02/2021 8:48 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@nikomi-2

I don't think that is true.  Why would that happen?

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 15/02/2021 9:40 pm
Turro75
(@turro75)
Estimable Member

@nikomi-2

it happens when the printer is not build within prusa specs not because of bondtech extruder fitted.

the firmware 4.3 introduced a new selftest (nothing that impacts print quality) that measure the axes length and compare them to a range defined by prusa.

I "had" to rebuild the x axis to meet the length as when assembling it I made it too long.

I "had" to change the distance between heatblock and heatsink from 1 to 3mm because my z axis lenght was too long so this change reduced the z axis lenght.

As far as I know there is no other way to reduce the Z length than changing the Z carriage position while nozzle tip reaches the print bed.

Reworking of the X axis would not be so critical and the only benefit after change was an useless green tick in the selftest report screen, nothing else.

Adjusting the distance between heatblock and the heatsink instead was a good improvement as it helped me getting a better thermal handling in the hotend.

 

Posted : 15/02/2021 10:05 pm
Nikomi
(@nikomi-2)
Active Member

@fernando-t-2

If you have stock extruder everything is ok. Stock extruder will stop a few milimeters before Z motor mount. Bondtech has flat top end. When printer doing Z calibration pinda probe will set zero point. Firmware has defined Z top position and if X carriage do out of range test will not pass. If you dont allow x carriage to reach that position and insert 4mm spacer (alen key), printer will read correct Z max value. 

Posted : 15/02/2021 10:12 pm
Fernando T
(@fernando-t)
Eminent Member

@nikomi-2

OK, thnx for the info! And this is an issue introduced with firmware 4.3?

I am not planning to change the extruder as the original one works fine in my opinion but good to know anyway!

Posted : 16/02/2021 7:50 am
Nikomi
(@nikomi-2)
Active Member

@fernando-t-2

Yes, earlier version works different. I think that original Prusa extruder works fine. The reason why I switch to  Bondtech is the quality of chines parts. There is a problem that nickel plated extruder gear started to throw parts of nickel into teflon tube. Result is underextrusion. 

Posted : 16/02/2021 1:16 pm
Fernando T
(@fernando-t)
Eminent Member
Posted by: @nikomi-2

@fernando-t-2

Yes, earlier version works different. I think that original Prusa extruder works fine. The reason why I switch to  Bondtech is the quality of chines parts. There is a problem that nickel plated extruder gear started to throw parts of nickel into teflon tube. Result is underextrusion. 

I can confirm, I  am using firmware 4.3.x now and it seems to be woking just fine.

Posted : 24/02/2021 3:35 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@fernando-t-2

my clone works fine wtoth pla and abs.  petg is stringy.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 24/02/2021 3:51 pm
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