Prusa Mini Clone from China
Thanks a lot!
It is Fysetc clone from spain, upgraded with Bondtech extruder. After short time I have replaced hotend with quality one, and did PID calibration. Prints are very good, but I spent a lot of time to make this machine workhorse like. Yesterday arrived original Mini+. Machine is exellent and don't have any issue. Overall, it's worth paying a little more and waiting for the original.
I concur. I am very happy with both of my clones. I have an upgraded FYSTEC they asked me to test and a Trianglelab (no longer made). They are both great printers but they are not really a Prusa (or in name only).
Hi Everybody, I own a Fytsec Mini Clone and am ecstatic with it, it just works! Even the extruder is fine, hotend also but obviously I cant print ABS with it etc.
The only issue I have is when I print big flat parts I got some adhesion problems at the right side of the plate (the outer region).
Anybody experience with the NyLoc mod on the mini?
I print mostly PETG (Devil Design) and some PLA. I have ordered a Trianglelabs Titanium Heatbreak all metal but am still waiting for it.
I Am wondering if I will have to trim the PTFE tube a bit as it won't go as far in the heartbreak and will be too long, if not it will mess-up the e-steps etc. Right?
Anyway, nice to be able to share some experiences with other Fytsec clone owners.
I am so happy with the min that I ordered a MK3S clone from Fytsec, hope th equality is as good as the mini clone from them.
Also I must say the support and communication is excellent also. I always get a swift response and they have sent me a couple of extra parts because I thought mine had issues (turned out I had adjusted it wrongly), so I am very satisfied with Fytsec.
Do you mean the MK3S from Fytsec?
Any experience with a all metal (or titanium) heartbreak from Trianglelabs on the mini?
I have it, assembled 1 month ago and the printer is working like a charm since then. 3 rolls of PETG, next week I'll switch to PLA.
I'm still thinking if assembling an hotend dedicated to PLA... let's see.
I also use a bmg clone which was annoying as the locking screw of the main gear get often loose. definitely fixed with some drops of loctite, in case I'll need to reassemble it I'll buy another (15€ on amazon).
here I published some pictures after 3 week
I was referring to the Mini from FTSTEC but the Mk3S is not bad either. With either, I would replace the hotend but they work.
I have used the Trianglelab Titanium Heatbreak and Trianglelab Bimetal heartbreak. Both are pretty good quality but I cannot tell much difference between the result I attain from either. They function as well as the e3D original.
Thank you for the info, I have a new Trianglelabs heatblok (brass) Heatbreak (titanium) on the way for the MK3S (which is also still on it's way), that will be a easy change as they are the same dimensions of the actual heartbreak and block in the kit. maybe only a PID running since the Brass block might get warmer then the Aluminium. But for the titanium heartbreak of the Mini I am wondering if I need to adjust the e-steps or cut the Bowden tube to length, with the titanium heartbreak the PTFE tube does not go as far into the heartbreak as with the one that comes with the clone and therefore the length from extruder to nozzle will be greater. Or am I wrong in this assumption?
Hi That is nice! But just ti be clear you are using a heartbreak BMG Clone? Did not know they cloned that one also, do you have a link?
is it all metal? And if so did you have to do anything with the lengt of your bowden tube or adjust your e-steps?
I have ordered this one which is on its way:
But actually I am quite pleased with the one on the printer now (came with the kit), so I think I will only change it when this one gets bad or when I decide to print ABS or something alike with the mini.
Just ordered this one to have ready when I need a change.
Anyone here has issues with bed adhesion on large prints on the right outer side of the heat bed?
All prints that stay in the center print great but large prints that reach the rim/edge of the heated bed on the right side have issues to stick to the bed, this is my only issue with the Mini and I will probably upgrade my parts fan as large overhangs do not print nice.
For the rest I love this little printer! It is so easy to operate and maintain. In comparison to my Ender 3 Pro which I sold recently it just works.
The Ender could print quite nice for a while and suddenly start throwing out one print spaghetti after another or the extruder would start clicking due to partial clogs and the result would be massive under extrusion, also the accuracy of the printed objects was not as good as the one on the Mini etc.
I have done it plus there is 12 pages in that post of people that have done it. First thing would be to make sure you x axis is parallel to the bed. The bed visualize would show you that. Many people find its not parallel from the factory. Mine wasn't.
OK, I have run a bed visualizer but how do you check if the bed is parallel to the X? I suspect that that is my issue also.
I know that I need to shim the Z axis between de electronics case and the Y profiles but want to be 100% sure I need it and want to do that according to measurements.
After that I am planning to add a brace, but forts I need to know if oil is square.
Are there other methods other then the bed visualiser?
What does the bed visualizer show?
Will do a check tomorrow and post there.