MINI enclosure? IKEA?  

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Karl Herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Noble Member

I would highly recommend positioning the psu outside the enclosure and extend the cables to the einsy board. Each degree more will decrease the lifetime of the electronic parts.

This post was modified 3 months ago by Karl Herbert
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen....
Posted : 18/01/2020 5:09 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Noble Member

@karl-herbert

I have one operating for 2 years in the enclosure.  I am not sure that translate into reality.  

Posted : 18/01/2020 5:21 pm
Karl Herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Noble Member

The power supply (240 watts) is already running near its limits. I would recommend moving it outside of the LACK enclosure. When printing materials such as ABS, PC, PA6 or similar, higher temperatures (over 40 degrees) can occur in the enclosure, which can heat the PSU more than usual.

Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen....
Posted : 18/01/2020 5:44 pm
LH
 lh
(@lh)
Eminent Member

Inside or out, I wish to print a bracket for it.  I need just width length height of the box.

Posted : 18/01/2020 6:01 pm
steve-4
(@steve-4)
Estimable Member

Ok, just for reference

I did a couple of prints today with the Mini in the enclosure (the power block/transformer is outside the enclosure on the lower shelf)

Prints came out great.

Printing PLA with the doors open, the temperature inside the enclosure was 1.5 dregrees hotter than ambient (my enclosure in in my office in the house).

The filament spool on the top of the enclosure, with a feed down to the printer, as per last pics, works fine too.

😉S

Posted : 18/01/2020 6:03 pm
crawlerin
(@crawlerin)
Reputable Member

@karl-herbert

MINI had 160 W external power brick which connects to Buddy, not Einsy board 🙂 not sure how well it prints polyamids and polycarbonates, maximum temperature for nozzle and bed are 280 degrees and 100 degrees Celsius (shutoff at +10). It probably can, just those are not officially listed as supported and no profiles in slicer. I think the brick may be OK inside Ikea enclosure, but the cable is plenty long to be somewhere on the ground outside.

Posted : 19/01/2020 3:29 am
Karl Herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Noble Member

@crawlerin

Sorry, I'm at MK3 again. PC (Ploymax) shouldn't be a problem, printing with 270/105.

Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen....
Posted : 19/01/2020 12:39 pm
towlerg
(@towlerg)
Reputable Member

@crawlerin

Are you sure you have the latest ver PrusaSlicer, I have profiles for Polymaker PC-Max which is polycarbonate I think.

Posted : 19/01/2020 1:33 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Noble Member

@towlerg

what is the latest version (Number)?  

Posted : 19/01/2020 1:46 pm
Karl Herbert
(@karl-herbert)
Noble Member

@towlerg

Yes - Polycarbonate, a very strong material, but good printable with brim an no fan in an enclosure.

Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen....
Posted : 19/01/2020 2:09 pm
towlerg
(@towlerg)
Reputable Member

I believe the latest release ver. is 2.1.1 and alpha ver. 2.2.0-alpha2.

 

Posted : 19/01/2020 2:57 pm
crawlerin
(@crawlerin)
Reputable Member
Posted by: @towlerg

@crawlerin

Are you sure you have the latest ver PrusaSlicer, I have profiles for Polymaker PC-Max which is polycarbonate I think.

You are right, there's also nylon in form of Taulman Bridge and PC-ABS. 

Posted : 19/01/2020 7:50 pm
crawlerin
(@crawlerin)
Reputable Member
Posted by: @lh

Inside or out, I wish to print a bracket for it.  I need just width length height of the box.

I measured it 173 x 72 x 35.3 mm.

Posted : 19/01/2020 8:28 pm
weak
 weak
(@weak)
Eminent Member
LH
 lh
(@lh)
Eminent Member

@crawlerin

@weak

Thank you both

Posted : 19/01/2020 10:15 pm
Boris Wernerski
(@boriswernerski)
Active Member

@steve-4

For anyone doing a LACK enclosure, consider buying another table and attaching the top to the bottom of the bottom set of legs, making the bottom section a cube.  The extra fixed point of contact on each leg cut down vibrations and a bit of ringing in prints on my old Wanhao I3.  Quick, easy, and only $10.  Less, if you can find a spare top in the clearance section.

Posted : 20/01/2020 8:17 pm
steve-4 liked
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Noble Member

@boriswernerski

I am considering converting the few I have.  

Posted : 20/01/2020 8:27 pm
stevensmith
(@stevensmith)
Trusted Member
Posted by: @steve-4

Hi Guys

As i said, i have experimented with a system of having the spool outide my LACK enclosure, on the top.

This is the part i printed, along with 2 T-Nuts to mount it.

This pic above shows it mounted and the X-carrage at the top of the Z-Axis.

Having a reasonable length of PTFE tube between the printed arm and the filament sensor ensures little resistance from the filament and no chance of the filament kinking.

In the enclosure

Fits well and now it's easy to reach the USB port.

The nice thing about this mod is that it is very simple to revert back to the original system for feeding the filament

S

Hey Steve-4, I like that solution and it looks like the Mini + spool holder will be a tight fit inside the Lack enclosure. Are you still using that setup? Want to know if you're happy before I start drilling the top of my Lack.

Posted : 09/02/2020 4:21 pm
steve-4
(@steve-4)
Estimable Member

@stevensmith

Hi,

Yes i am still using the LACK setup with the filament outside on the top.

Had no problems at all and my Mini has been running approx 12 hours a day, every day.

S

Posted : 09/02/2020 4:58 pm
charles.h13
(@charles-h13)
Noble Member

I have two enclosures for the MK3S.  Still thinking about the mini.  I am thinking about the IKEA Sektion

Posted : 09/02/2020 5:52 pm
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