Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?  

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cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@prusanewuser

Be careful with the rough side of sponges.  Make sure they are none scratch.  

I spray windex on and let it site for 10-20 seconds and then wipe it off with a no lint towel.  If it is espacially sticky PETG, I will respray and let it dry on the printer (small amount).  

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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 26/02/2021 8:13 pm
prusanewuser
(@prusanewuser)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @cwbullet

@prusanewuser

Be careful with the rough side of sponges.  Make sure they are none scratch.  

I spray windex on and let it site for 10-20 seconds and then wipe it off with a no lint towel.  If it is espacially sticky PETG, I will respray and let it dry on the printer (small amount).  

Thanks. So there is no need to mix it with water. Are there good sponges that can do the job of removing leftover filaments well while not scratching the PEI?

Posted : 26/02/2021 8:26 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@prusanewuser

I use the green scotch sponges that are more environmentally friendly.  They scratch less.

This post was modified 2 months ago by cwbullet
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 26/02/2021 8:35 pm
prusanewuser
(@prusanewuser)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @cwbullet

@prusanewuser

I use the green scotch sponges that are more environmentally friendly.  They scratch less.

Thanks. When I need to use a sponge to remove the hard to remove filaments on the PEI, do I just spray Windex on the PEI and rub it with a sponge or I need to do some cleaning using disc soap+water first. Then, rub using Windex and a sponge?

Posted : 26/02/2021 8:42 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@prusanewuser

They sell them at most grocery stores in the US.  I also like the Dawn blue ponges.  

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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 26/02/2021 8:50 pm
prusanewuser
(@prusanewuser)
Honorable Member

Thanks. 

I made three tests. Each time I cleaned the sheet with Windex before printing and waited for the sheet to cool down before trying to remove the prints. For the first time, it was easy to remove. For the second time, it was difficult. I guess it could be that I paused the print after the printer completed six layers and the print might be too thin so that it bent when I flexed the PEI sheet to get it off. For the 3rd time, I waited for the print to complete. It is about 5mm in thickness. Again, very difficult to remove. I flexed back and forth several times but nothing happened. Tried again and suddenly a pop sound. The sheet got damaged.

What have I done wrong?

Posted : 27/02/2021 12:34 am
egar
 egar
(@egar)
Trusted Member

@prusanewuser

I don’t think you would have done anything wrong. That sucks that the sheet was damaged.  I know you said that you had one of the Gecko PEI sheets. Was that what was damaged?  If so, I wonder is others have had similar problems with that brand?

Posted : 27/02/2021 12:43 am
prusanewuser
(@prusanewuser)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @egar

@prusanewuser

I don’t think you would have done anything wrong. That sucks that the sheet was damaged.  I know you said that you had one of the Gecko PEI sheets. Was that what was damaged?  If so, I wonder is others have had similar problems with that brand?

Those three tests were done with a Prusa PEI smooth steel sheet without a Gecko sheet on it. I am trying to determine if Windex+PEI Smooth Steel Sheet is better than Gecko+PEI Smooth Steel Sheet. I am not happy with the Gecko sheet as it left some marks on the surface of my prints even I used a brand new one for the first time. Also, images of previous prints got imprinted on the new prints. I want completely clean, smooth surfaces.

This post was modified 2 months ago 2 times by prusanewuser
Posted : 27/02/2021 12:52 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@prusanewuser

I will have to go back over my notes, I do not remember marks on my prints.  I may have not used PETG on Gecko but I liked the adhesion results.  I also put my Gecko on a plain steel sheet.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 27/02/2021 3:29 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Illustrious Member

@prusanewuser

Be careful with the rough side of sponges.  Make sure they are none scratch.  

I spray windex on and let it site for 10-20 seconds and then wipe it off with a no lint towel.  If it is espacially sticky PETG, I will respray and let it dry on the printer (small amount).  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog...
Posted : 20/03/2021 12:03 am
3Delight
(@3delight)
Moderator

Check out the Prusa Knowledge Base here: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/petg_2059 and here: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-issues_1804

TLDR:

It can be advisable to use the powder-coated sheets.

PETG, XT, and CPH filaments are an exception - the adhesion may be too strong, and you can damage your Smooth PEI sheet.

Posted : 20/03/2021 1:48 am
toalan
(@toalan)
Active Member

For smallish single model PETG prints I use the Prusa powder coated PEI spring steel, it offers the perfect amount of adhesion.

For larger PETG prints or printing multiples of smaller models I use cheap textured PEI sheets off ali, It is better to error on the side of having too much adhesion than less for long print jobs. I rely on ABL to avoid the nozzle being too close to the bed and having your prints fuse to the PEI, but even if it does fuse the sheets are cheap to replace.

PEI is a very durable print surface and can be sanded to restore better than original adhesion. 

I also have buildtak which is a polycarbonate print surface, the adhesion of a PC print surface is supreme, too supreme for PETG. I only use it for ASA/ABS/HIPS. A PC build surface is nowhere as durable as PEI and will transfer pigment from prior prints onto the bottoms of your prints. If sanded PEI is enough for the ASA/ABS/HIPS print then I use that and avoid using buildtak. 

 

 

Posted : 13/04/2021 10:54 pm
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